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Help needed with 93, clutch problems?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by DClark View Post
    The clutch should always have resistance to it. If you have to squeeze it a few times, youíve got air in the line.
    if youíve bled it a lot and it still does this, youíve still got air. There is a banjo bolt ( I think ) near the fluid resovour, crack it open there.
    This bike will need a lot of work. The rear shock is likely lacking nitrogen, send out for rebuild. The valves will need to be adjusted , carbs synched. And those tires might be 26 year old rotted out rubber, toss them, theyíll kill you.
    +1, still has air in it. The clutches on this bike are know to b a bit of a b!tch... Several folks actually swapped to cable driven systems because they could never get the hydrolic working right.
    DC is also right - this is going to be a fairly major project. If that's not what you were looking for, might want to stop now. It's going to take a lot of time and a fair amount of $.
    Having said that, if that's something you were expecting/wanting: awesome!

    When you've got it running/shifting right, you're going to also want to change the fork oil, grease all bearings, lube the windshield up/down guide, and as DC mentioned, do something for the shock. If you don't already have one, I'd recommend getting ahold of a service manual.
    1998 Katana 750
    1992 Katana 1100
    2006 Ninja 250

    2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

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    • #17
      Originally posted by shpielers View Post

      +1, still has air in it. The clutches on this bike are know to b a bit of a b!tch... Several folks actually swapped to cable driven systems because they could never get the hydrolic working right.
      DC is also right - this is going to be a fairly major project. If that's not what you were looking for, might want to stop now. It's going to take a lot of time and a fair amount of $.
      Having said that, if that's something you were expecting/wanting: awesome!

      When you've got it running/shifting right, you're going to also want to change the fork oil, grease all bearings, lube the windshield up/down guide, and as DC mentioned, do something for the shock. If you don't already have one, I'd recommend getting ahold of a service manual.
      Thanks guys I appreciate the input..

      I did find some sort of a manual online, its not the greatest though.

      Right now I'm still trying to address the hydraulic system. I am not the most mechanically inclined, so my uncle is helping me. At first, we thought that maybe the clutch master cylinder was causing issues. Its hard to explain via the web, but the clutch lever felt great after bleeding HOWEVER if we let the lever slap back a few times... it seemed to pressurize, get very stiff, and any free play in the lever was gone. This seemed to allow some play over on the clutch side with the clutch lever completely engaged (lever out), the clutch plate had a little movement.

      So thinking that maybe some seals were bad in the clutch master cylinder I ordered up and installed a rebuild kit for it. It did not change anything at all. Are these bikes supposed to have free play in the clutch lever at all?? Because I've been through this entire hydraulic system, cleaned, rebuilt, bled and bled and bled some more and it still doesn't seem to be functioning correctly. I don't wanna smoke the clutch in this thing but I'm pretty lost when it comes to why it will go into gear but won't move?

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      • #18
        Take some string , duct tape, whatever, and tie/ attach it to clutch lever so it is fully depressed, touching the handgrip. Leave it like that over night. Then, next day, bleed it a few pumps ( just a couple) and see if you have your normal clutch resistance back.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by DClark View Post
          Take some string , duct tape, whatever, and tie/ attach it to clutch lever so it is fully depressed, touching the handgrip. Leave it like that over night. Then, next day, bleed it a few pumps ( just a couple) and see if you have your normal clutch resistance back.
          Ok so an update..

          Issue #1- I did try this , compressing the lever overnight. I then bled, and bled this system. Its been bled a dozen times by now, and I still cannot get all the air out of the line. I was able to get the bike to move immediately after bleeding out some pressure in it though, so I now know that the clutch is not behaving properly directly due to this system. Question: How difficult would it be to swap to a cable setup, and which parts would be required? Any thoughts?

          Issue #2- Cylinders #1 and 2 are intermittently dead. I have new spark plugs, verified the electrical system. Leak down and compression test were good. Its gotta be a fuel issue but I have no idea where. the carb has been cleaned over several times, it has a brand new carb rebuild kit in it. Any ideas?

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          • #20
            If all the pumping in the world doesnít give a firm lever, you must have one hell of a leak somewhere. Do you see any fluid seaping out anywhere?
            Gently stir some dish soap into a glass. Remove the clutch activator ( i donít know the name, itís the thing that pushes the clutch rod, mounted on side of bike )
            Place it in the glass, pump that clutch lever a lot and see if you spot any bubbles in the glass.
            If you donít, well, the leak can be anywhere in the system, could be up by the resovoir.

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            • #21
              The cylinders not firing. If youíre positive itís not electrical, Iíd remove the fuel bowls on the carbs for cylinders that are dead.Look for reddish sediment. If you see it, thatís rust and you probably have it in the carbs. The filter wonít catch it; youíll have to treat the tank. If a tank was sitting with little fuel in it, rust is high likelihood. You can also try peering into the tank.
              Rust can be a real bitch!

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