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Little work to the bar risers

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  • Little work to the bar risers

    Made some adjustments to my bar risers. I realized I had some aluminum risers that did not raise the bars enough to use and I wanted an aluminum spacer to replace the stainless steel washers I was using.
    I also took a wire wheel to the aluminum bar clamps that were painted black and scratched up.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    nice work

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    • #3
      can you give me a part list and cost. I want to replace the clip on so I can ride farther. Four back surgeries. Nerve damage right arm.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by markskater View Post
        can you give me a part list and cost. I want to replace the clip on so I can ride farther. Four back surgeries. Nerve damage right arm.
        The bar clamps I got off of an old Honda at a salvage yard for $10. You need to make sure that the bolt coming out of it is long enough to go through your stock upper triple clamp. You can get new ones made for dirt bikes but they run around $90.

        Bikemaster handlebars (daytona bend) $25. You will need to drill locator holes on the handlebars for your stock controls to mount securely.

        Rox Pivoting bar risers 2" $95.

        Dual line stainless steel brake lines or extended upper brake line. I removed the three lines together and had a hydraulic hose company match the bends and just make them a few ines longer. Was done while I waited in about 30 minutes. $69 for the two line setup. If you do the two line setup, use the banjo from the splitter in the master cylinder.

        I used this with the stock cables. My clutch cable was stiff so I did get one 3" longer for $20. The motorcycle salvage place near me happened to make custom cables also.

        To mount the clamps you just drill out the stock hole that your clipons mount to so that the bar clamp bolt can go through. I suggest using a washer on the underside. I would also suggest removing the upper triple to drill it.

        While the triple is off, move all cables to the outside of the fork tubes.

        The main wiring is held by a ziptie in front of the forks. You need to remove that ziptie to give the wires room to move.

        Not counting brakelines, you should expect everything else to take between 30 and 60 minutes.

        Before riding start the bike and move the steering through its full motion left and right to make sure that all cables are working properly.

        If your existing grips are still in good condition you can use a long thin flat screwdriver to remove them. Use hairspray to remount them on the new bars.

        You also lose the nut that your bar end weights screw into. I ended up spending $12 for a set that uses rubber inside the bar and just used the stock ends with it. You could probably piece something together using rubber tubing and a couple nuts from the hardware store though.

        I hope this helps

        I have newer pics under Touring 411. Read higher bars = more miles for pics.
        Last edited by rschlegel; 06-30-2014, 12:00 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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        • #5
          Awesome. Thank you very much.

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          • #6
            No problem. Makes you love the Kat even more.

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