Gear Position Indicator Installed

[B-Man]

I finally got off my duff and finished the installation of my low-tech GPI.

Using a factory Suzuki GPI switch and a circuit board I hand soldered, I was able to make it work without any programming, etc. Good old diodes and resistors make it simple and reliable.

If you use the display I list in the drawing, it will fit into the empty spot in the instrument panel without any cutting. I hot glued it in, after I soldered CAT5 stranded wire to the pins I needed.

I sourced my +12V from the "Position" light on the front. It switches on and off with the key and works great.

I put a small piece of window tint over the display so you can't see anything when it is off.



GPI Working.jpg

[shpielers]

Dude, nice!! I Cant read electrical diagrams worth a damn, but looks like an excellent write up for those who can, even included the part #!

[92xjunker]

GSXFJim makes those, he'll even install the led in your pod.

[B-Man]

GSXFJim makes those, he'll even install the led in your pod.

Not quite the same though. Mine will set you back around $15 for the parts and requires no programming. The LED display I suggest can be had in other colors, sizes, etc. I picked the blue unit in that particular size so I wouldn't have to cut up the instrument panel. It is a press-in fit.

Of course, both solutions require the Suzuki factory GPI switch - that is a bit pricey but it does work well.

EDIT - I forgot to include pricing, from Mouser, as of today :

01 - LED Display - $3.56
32 - 1N4001 Diodes - $4.74
07 - 690 Ohm, 1/2 Watt Resistors - $.84
02 - 1.25" x 1.25" PCB - $2.00
01 - Plastic Enclosure - $2.50

Total - $13.64 + shipping to your house.

Here's a shot of the LED display in the cluster :



GPI LED.jpg

[trumper]

Very nice.

[92xjunker]

Not saying yours is wrong. just, if you don't have electronic skills someone makes them for them.

[B-Man]

Not saying yours is wrong. just, if you don't have electronic skills someone makes them for them.

I didn't take it that way. I was just pointing out Jim's is a bit fancier than mine. His actually has a bit of logic in it - mine is simply controlling current flow to the LED display.

I apologize if I came off wrong with my earlier explanation.

[92xjunker]

Naw, I'm good..

[Thebeast567]

Ok look.... That is awesome... . I need it. I like the one on here. Question though, how hard is it to get the parts and where do you get the suzuki gpi and how much that goes for? Will it mess up when I change my clutches?

[B-Man]

Ok look.... That is awesome... . I need it. I like the one on here. Question though, how hard is it to get the parts and where do you get the suzuki gpi and how much that goes for? Will it mess up when I change my clutches?

Mouser is a source for the electronic parts

Suzuki GPI Switch - http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...720-24A01.html

Why would it mess anything up when you service the clutch ? There is already a GPI switch in your Katana - it just doesn't have the contact points for all of the gears. The replacement unit is physically the same and bolts in where the old unit is now - it just has the additional wires for the other contact points.

[Cgarcia]

Any chance you might have a pic of the circuit board? I'm really tempted to build this, but I don't have anywhere near your skills. I do already have a suzuki gpi switch.

[Thebeast567]

Is these correct?

http://m.ebay.com/itm/1981-SUZUKI-GS650GL-GS650-GEAR-POSITION-SWITCH-NEUTRAL-SWITCH-SHP-/201473875337?nav=SEARCH

[kdo58]

1980 gs1100-lt gear shifting
1982 gs1100e gear shifting
1982 gs1100es gear shifting
1983 gs1100e gear shifting
1983 gs1100es gear shifting
1984 gs1150 gear shifting
1984 gs1150ef gear shifting
1984 gs1150ef2 gear shifting
1984 gs1150eg gear shifting
1984 gs1150es3 gear shifting
1984 gs1150ese gear shifting
1984 gs1150esf gear shifting
1984 gs1150esg gear shifting
1985 gs1150ef gear shifting
1985 gs1150ef2 gear shifting
1985 gs1150eg gear shifting
1985 gs1150es3 gear shifting
1985 gs1150ese gear shifting
1985 gs1150esf gear shifting
1985 gs1150esg gear shifting
1986 gs1150ef gear shifting
1986 gs1150ef2 gear shifting
1986 gs1150eg gear shifting
1986 gs1150es3 gear shifting
1986 gs1150ese gear shifting
1986 gs1150esf gear shifting
1986 gs1150esg gear shifting
the smaller displacement bikes wont work

[Thebeast567]

Oh ok so is that because our bikes are based off the antique gsxr's? I have a 2002 Gsx600f katana. The 80-86 1150's work with this mod. I been in youtube seeing people install these, now I need a visual picture of the board and the sensor position and I'm sure I can do the rest. I'm a visual learner

[B-Man]

The picture shows how I made my boards. You literally put the diodes into the correct holes, just like the picture shows, on the lower board. Solder all of them in place standing straight up. Connect the CAT5 stranded wires you ran from the GPI switch right where you see them on the lower board.

Insert and solder the resistors in the holes on the upper board. Then, place the upper board onto the diodes, making a sandwich of sorts. Solder all of the diodes in place. Connect the CAT5 stranded wires from the LED display unit and the +12V to the upper board, right where the drawing shows.

When you finish, the diodes will be sandwiched between the lower and upper boards, with the cathode end (the black stripe side of the diode) soldered to the lower board and the anode end soldered to the upper board.

How it works: The letters across the bottom of the lower board (A,B,C,D,E,F,G) correspond to the segments of the LED display. If you look at the Neutral line, you will see that there is a diode in A,B,C,E,F. This literally means those individual segments on the LED display will light when the gear selector is in Neutral. If you want a small "n" instead of a large "n", you can put diodes in C,E,G. If you want a 0 for Neutral, put diodes in A,B,C,D,E,F. Of course, if you are happy with having a blank display when you are in Neutral, leave the diodes out for the Neutral row. That is what I did because I still have my Neutral lamp active in my cluster. (Be sure you connect the Neutral wire from the new GPI switch to the existing Neutral wire on your bike if you want the dash Neutral light to continue working)

This pattern repeats for each gear selection row on the lower board.

Pins 3 and 8 on the LED display should be connected together right at the LED display, so you only need 1 wire to connect to +12V. I used the +12V side of the "position light" and it works great, plus it is right there behind the instrument cluster - very easy to get to and is switched on and off with the key.

There is no connection to Pin 6 of the LED display because that is the decimal point and I chose not to use it.

One last thing - I labeled the pins on the LED display drawing backwards from how they really lay when looking at it in your hand. In other words, when you are looking at the display, Pin 1 is really at the top left and Pin 6 is at the bottom right. I swapped them on the drawing to help make it easier to follow the circuits. If you solder the wires to the correct pins and then connect them on the circuit board as I have it labeled it will work as designed.

I hope this helps.