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No turn signals?

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  • No turn signals?

    My turn signals stopped working. I checked all the fuses. No other light doesnt work. I can hear a click from around the battery when i turn them on. They dont flash or light up at all. If I had a bulb out would that cause them to not work? If the flasher was bad wouldn't the bulbs stay lit up constantly?
    Checked all the bulbs and they all work. Maybe my battery voltage is low.
    Last edited by ZookRick; 09-17-2013, 03:50 PM.
    1989 GSXF 750 Katana.
    V&H supersport exhaust, ported head, GSXR cams
    Michelin PR2's, RT fork springs and R6 shock

  • #2
    Sounds like a bad flasher relay to me. I had a problem like that too. It would click once but nothing would light up in either direction. If you dont have LED blinkers, the blinker relay out of the closest thing with one should work. I had one from a car in mine until i switched to LED blinkers, then i had to get an LED flasher relay. They are under $20 at your local Auto Zone or Advanced Auto.
    My build thread (Black Betty) '97 600 (Dearly Departed)
    http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=133286
    2007 GSXR 750

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by maniac1886 View Post
      Sounds like a bad flasher relay to me. I had a problem like that too. It would click once but nothing would light up in either direction. If you dont have LED blinkers, the blinker relay out of the closest thing with one should work. I had one from a car in mine until i switched to LED blinkers, then i had to get an LED flasher relay. They are under $20 at your local Auto Zone or Advanced Auto.
      LED blinkers with the stock relay will just blink fast or stay lit. If you aren't getting any flashing at all.. If the bulb was burned out the others would still work, they are in parallel, not series.

      Sounds like your relay is busted... It is easy to check...

      There should be a light blue wire off the relay, just check the voltage on that as positive and ground the negative end. It is always powered when the switch is in the ON position.
      Last edited by numus; 09-17-2013, 05:02 PM.

      Comment


      • #4
        Like i said, i didnt have a OEM in mine, it was the standard one for a car, but yes, they stayed on for me. I went to autozone and bought the "LED" flasher relay for like $3 more and they worked great after that.
        My build thread (Black Betty) '97 600 (Dearly Departed)
        http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=133286
        2007 GSXR 750

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by maniac1886 View Post
          Like i said, i didnt have a OEM in mine, it was the standard one for a car, but yes, they stayed on for me. I went to autozone and bought the "LED" flasher relay for like $3 more and they worked great after that.
          Ya... The LED ones use an electronic relay to pulse, the old style ones are Thermal flashers which don't work well with LEDs because of the lower power draw of an LED.

          Comment


          • #6
            interesting....
            My build thread (Black Betty) '97 600 (Dearly Departed)
            http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=133286
            2007 GSXR 750

            Comment


            • #7
              I looked up prices of flasher relays, $60 or so online, then did some searching here and found this thread:

              So, I went to my local Lordco and paid $11 for a flasher that was a direct plug in to the stock plug
              1989 GSXF 750 Katana.
              V&H supersport exhaust, ported head, GSXR cams
              Michelin PR2's, RT fork springs and R6 shock

              Comment


              • #8
                So, I got the signals working, but now the headlight doesnt work AAARGH!!
                I tested the bulb and it works, and there is juice at the white wire(low beam) but little or nothing at the yellow one with the switch at either position. But I plug in the bulb and nothing on high or low beam.
                I am thinking it might be the handlebar switch, failing under load when there a bulb on it, its probably pretty gummed up in there. Power does flow as tested with my multimeter, just no light on the bulb.
                Last edited by ZookRick; 09-19-2013, 01:59 PM.
                1989 GSXF 750 Katana.
                V&H supersport exhaust, ported head, GSXR cams
                Michelin PR2's, RT fork springs and R6 shock

                Comment


                • #9
                  If current flows without bulb, as tested at the bulb socket, but bulb will not light then I'd suspect a ground short either at the socket or the splitting cluster slightly further up the loom.

                  It's unlikely, but not impossible to be the hi/lo switch.

                  Do you have continuity between both low and high pins on both sockets with the bulbs installed? (not between them lol - continuity at each position on both sockets), continuity between both grounds, and good ground at each?

                  I've seen lights do strange things with bad grounds - brakes coming on instead of flashers etc.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Stumpy View Post
                    If current flows without bulb, as tested at the bulb socket, but bulb will not light then I'd suspect a ground short either at the socket or the splitting cluster slightly further up the loom.

                    It's unlikely, but not impossible to be the hi/lo switch.

                    Do you have continuity between both low and high pins on both sockets with the bulbs installed? (not between them lol - continuity at each position on both sockets), continuity between both grounds, and good ground at each?

                    I've seen lights do strange things with bad grounds - brakes coming on instead of flashers etc.
                    I only have one socket, its and '89. The headlight did work in the last few days, just noticed it was out. I am checking for power using the ground at the headlight, I could check for resistance between frame and the socket.
                    1989 GSXF 750 Katana.
                    V&H supersport exhaust, ported head, GSXR cams
                    Michelin PR2's, RT fork springs and R6 shock

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Well that simplifies things a bit

                      Yeah - check the resistance between both high and low poles and ground and frame, with switch in both positions. You know what I mean

                      You'll need the bulb in the socket for it to work though, and make sure the bulb filaments are good.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Stumpy View Post
                        Well that simplifies things a bit

                        Yeah - check the resistance between both high and low poles and ground and frame, with switch in both positions. You know what I mean

                        You'll need the bulb in the socket for it to work though, and make sure the bulb filaments are good.
                        I dont understand why you say the bulb should be in the socket for the test. I used my multimeter on the bulb and got continuity across all three. So if it is plugged in it will show continuity through the bulb. explain please.
                        1989 GSXF 750 Katana.
                        V&H supersport exhaust, ported head, GSXR cams
                        Michelin PR2's, RT fork springs and R6 shock

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          With no bulb in the socket, and you get continuity across all three - well that's your problem right there.

                          The bulb dumps current from low or high to ground across one filament at a time depending on switch setting. With no bulb in the socket, there should be nothing connecting them at all.

                          Oh - I don't mean test the bulb, test the socket!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Stumpy View Post
                            With no bulb in the socket, and you get continuity across all three - well that's your problem right there.

                            The bulb dumps current from low or high to ground across one filament at a time depending on switch setting. With no bulb in the socket, there should be nothing connecting them at all.

                            Oh - I don't mean test the bulb, test the socket!
                            I dont see what good to test with the bulb in. I tested the socket and got voltage without the bulb in, but with the bulb in there was no voltage. I cleaned the hi/low switch and I noticed the high beam indicator dash light comes on when I have the switch in high beam position.
                            1989 GSXF 750 Katana.
                            V&H supersport exhaust, ported head, GSXR cams
                            Michelin PR2's, RT fork springs and R6 shock

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by ZookRick View Post
                              I dont see what good to test with the bulb in. I tested the socket and got voltage without the bulb in, but with the bulb in there was no voltage. I cleaned the hi/low switch and I noticed the high beam indicator dash light comes on when I have the switch in high beam position.
                              Maybe you can't see the point - but I do. IF you have voltage at socket with no bulb, and NO voltage with bulb in - it's either because it's shorting out somewhere, or you are breaking the circuit in the process. I can't explain it any simpler than that.

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