Alternator output???

[Moto_Geek]

Thinking of adding some accessories to my 95 GSX600f. I've already wired up an accessory outlet that I keep my phone plugged into on long rides so they battery stays charged while I use the music and gps. Thinking of adding some heated grips, Montana mornings are cold even right now, for the morning commute. What can the Kat alternator handle? I'm going to be building this into a touring machine, which will likely mean a dedicated gps, my phone, heated grips, and possibly a radar/lidar detector. Can the Kat alternator keep up with this much equipment drawing on it while riding?

Also, at some point I'm going to ditch the stock headlight and move to an HID setup, and ditch the turn signals and brake light for LED units. Not sure how this would affect that as well? Recommendations, pitfalls, general thoughts?

Moto_Geek

[Kreylyn]

Thinking of adding some accessories to my 95 GSX600f. I've already wired up an accessory outlet that I keep my phone plugged into on long rides so they battery stays charged while I use the music and gps. Thinking of adding some heated grips, Montana mornings are cold even right now, for the morning commute. What can the Kat alternator handle? I'm going to be building this into a touring machine, which will likely mean a dedicated gps, my phone, heated grips, and possibly a radar/lidar detector. Can the Kat alternator keep up with this much equipment drawing on it while riding?

Also, at some point I'm going to ditch the stock headlight and move to an HID setup, and ditch the turn signals and brake light for LED units. Not sure how this would affect that as well? Recommendations, pitfalls, general thoughts?

Moto_Geek

The alternator output is more than enough to handle it. The voltage regulator auto adjusts for the draw. One of the reasons kats fry batteries is because of this adjustability and over output due to a drop in the return voltage (orange wire going into the alternator).

The key to make sure everything is working fine is to make sure that input line has appropriate voltage retuning to the alternator for the draw.

Krey

[Moto_Geek]

Thanks, can you expand on this???

"The key to make sure everything is working fine is to make sure that input line has appropriate voltage retuning to the alternator for the draw."

Thanks for the information! Can you expand on this a little for me? What voltage should I be looking for? Should this be measured at idle? I'm fairly decent with a multimeter, just need to know what I'm looking for.

Moto_Geek

[Kreylyn]

"The key to make sure everything is working fine is to make sure that input line has appropriate voltage retuning to the alternator for the draw."

Thanks for the information! Can you expand on this a little for me? What voltage should I be looking for? Should this be measured at idle? I'm fairly decent with a multimeter, just need to know what I'm looking for.

Moto_Geek

The regulator in the alternator is supposed to keep the output between 13-14.6v. If you have devices pulling voltage off to run them, then the system voltage will drop.

For example... you can clearly see this with the bike not running. If you measure the system voltage with the headlight on, then again with the headlight unplugged... you will find the headlight draw drops the over all system voltage by about 1v aprox.

The regulator will auto adjust for this by pushing out more V to compensate... keeping the return voltage (and theoretically to the battery) higher than the battery voltage, thus charging the battery and keeping everything working right.

Too high to the battery though is a problem. So if the battery is getting more than 14.6v, it's over charges and damages it.

Note: 14.6 is from memory... it could be slightly different, please confirm in manual...

Check alternator output at 3500+ rpm.

The orange wire going into the alternator is the source the voltage regulator uses to auto adjust the output. You want to measure power there and at the battery to compare if there is a variance or drop in power.

If your seeing the voltage at the battery is higher than at the orang wire into the alternator, then that can cause an issue with over charging.

There are a few fixes... the simple is to clean all connections and trace back to the drops fixing them. Also you can do a relay mod to run power directly from the battery to the orange wire always making sure output matches to the max 14.6v at the battery.

Krey

[Moto_Geek]

The regulator in the alternator is supposed to keep the output between 13-14.6v. If you have devices pulling voltage off to run them, then the system voltage will drop.

For example... you can clearly see this with the bike not running. If you measure the system voltage with the headlight on, then again with the headlight unplugged... you will find the headlight draw drops the over all system voltage by about 1v aprox.

The regulator will auto adjust for this by pushing out more V to compensate... keeping the return voltage (and theoretically to the battery) higher than the battery voltage, thus charging the battery and keeping everything working right.

Too high to the battery though is a problem. So if the battery is getting more than 14.6v, it's over charges and damages it.

Note: 14.6 is from memory... it could be slightly different, please confirm in manual...

Check alternator output at 3500+ rpm.

The orange wire going into the alternator is the source the voltage regulator uses to auto adjust the output. You want to measure power there and at the battery to compare if there is a variance or drop in power.

If your seeing the voltage at the battery is higher than at the orang wire into the alternator, then that can cause an issue with over charging.

There are a few fixes... the simple is to clean all connections and trace back to the drops fixing them. Also you can do a relay mod to run power directly from the battery to the orange wire always making sure output matches to the max 14.6v at the battery.

Krey

Krey,

Thank you for the info! I will check this out this weekend when I have time. Riding the bike every day to work and busy with projects in the evening. I think I'll look into doing the relay mod, sounds like it will provide the desired results.

Moto_Geek

[91_gsx600F katana]

does anyone know what the amp rating is of the stock alternator?

[TRPUT]

does anyone know what the amp rating is of the stock alternator?

Check the Manual for a Pre. The provided figures for the Post are:

Regulated Voltage Output - 13.6 - 14.4 volts @ 5000 RPM
Alternator Max Output - 550 watts @ 5000 RPM

P = VI

therefore Max Current (amperes) = P/V = somewhere between 38 amps and 40 amps. ie HEAPS!

How useful are those manuals??

[91_gsx600F katana]

Ouch. I guess these systems are really limited if your going fuel Injection or things like upgraded headlights and aftermarket ignitions.

[m4s4]

The orange wire going into the alternator is the source the voltage regulator uses to auto adjust the output. You want to measure power there and at the battery to compare if there is a variance or drop in power.

Krey

Greetings from Finland

This post was a life saver! I had charging voltage about 15,6v (lights on).

Measured this orange alternator voltage and it was a lot lower than battery. For me the reason was bad connection in the ignition switch connector (both red and orange alternator wires goes through).
Took out the connector and soldered all wires (red, orange, brown and grey) also changed red and orange wire all the way to the alternator connection (no connectors, only solder connections)

I recommend changing these wires and connections to ensure correct charge voltages!!

Led battery monitor saved me from overcharging my battery.

-m4s4-