integrated rear signals removal question

[sebastien]

Hey all..

I have been working on my 2003 katana 600. I bought it with integrated rear turn signals and stop light.. They wouldn't pass the safety. anyways, this is what I have done so far:
1) removed the splicing and extended the connectors to the stock turn signals
2) cleverly installed the turn signals on the back fairing with a couple of aluminum brackets and connected the stock turn signals

here's the problem..
- there were resistors connected with the spliced LED integrated turn signals.. i took them out, dunno if that is a problem or not
- removed the two yellow cables that give electricity to the integrated turn signals
- my brake light still turns on and off when the one of the rear turn signals are on (there are 3 wires going from the bike to the connector, 4 wires from the connector to the integrated LED break light)
- now my break light does not turn on anymore, might be my battery since my its being really weak..

any ideas? i am going to buy a voltmeter once i get paid for further analysis.. i will probably post pictures later today if needed

[green_bread]

Sounds like you just have some wires crossed. I havent messed with mine enough, yet, to give you advice on which one goes where. I think the resistors were there with the integrated tail to make it so the turn signals didnt flash crazy fast.

[sebastien]

yah thats what I thought too.. the integrated turn signals dont flash anymore which is good, its the break light that's flashing which is weird!

[TRPUT]

To make the integrated tail light work, the indicator wire earth was probably run from the tail light earth because the light integrated the indicators internally - the Kat does it separately. You'll need to break that connection. The Kat should have a dedicated + and - wire to each indicator and the tail / stop / earth wires to the rear (plus the license plate wires).

[rexazz2]

The resistors can be removed if going back to stock lighting ,their only purpose is to reduce the flash rate because LEDs dont create enough resistance to make the stock flasher operate

I dont have a Katana anymore but never threw out the bible LOL

Here is the wiring diagram , the only diferance is your bike should have two brake light bulbs

[sebastien]

- the white arrows point to the integrated turn signals i disconnected.. they are not hooked up to anything at the moment

- the yellow arrows point to the extensions i made.. work great, and really cheap!

- the red arrow points to the integrated break light (LEDs i believe).. three wires going from the bike, 4 wires going to the light unit.

[rexazz2]

- the white arrows point to the integrated turn signals i disconnected.. they are not hooked up to anything at the moment

- the yellow arrows point to the extensions i made.. work great, and really cheap!

- the red arrow points to the integrated break light (LEDs i believe).. three wires going from the bike, 4 wires going to the light unit.

scotch lock splices work for uhaul?
get rid of them
Solder and shrink tube your splices , it will save you grief in the future

[TRPUT]

Check you haven't reversed polarity with your "extensions". The symptoms you described tend to suggest that a + and - wire are arse-a-bout somewhere.

If it's the same as the integrated light I bought, the wire position and colours did not correspond as they were described. So also check that the earth and brake/tail connections match through that plug.

And yes - it those scotch lock things are only on the redundant integrated LED flashes, then cut off all that yellow wire and neaten things up.

[sebastien]

So i have checked everything. I kno what is wrong now, i have no idea how to fix it. so here, please help if you can..

i checked the polarity and everything was fine. However, here's what i found:
- if i have the license plate light hooked up, my red back LEDs dont light up at all, and all the power goes to that stupid little light.
- if i do not have the license plate light hooked up, all the power goes to the LED lights

I tried hooking them up in series and in parallel.. nothing got both of the to light up at the same time

Suggestions?

scotch lock splices work for uhaul?
get rid of them
Solder and shrink tube your splices , it will save you grief in the future

and thanks for the advice, clear heat shrink tubes look a LOT cleaner!!

[rexazz2]

I am a little confused
are you trying to go completely back to stock ??

[sebastien]

I am a little confused
are you trying to go completely back to stock ??

well, keep the brake LEDs, but yah this is my intention! i hated the integrated turn signals, and i need to get the bike safetied in ontario,, they wont pass the bike if there's integrated turn signals

[rexazz2]

well, keep the brake LEDs, but yah this is my intention! i hated the integrated turn signals, and i need to get the bike safetied in ontario,, they wont pass the bike if there's integrated turn signals

probably tried to get it saftied at CTC ??

IMO get yourself a testlight , and go back to basics of the harness

If they didnt like the integarated lights ,they likely wont like the not so bright LED brake light

connect the test light to the battery ground --

the tiny 2 wire plugs are left and right signals
your test light will only light when connected to the +
If the front light is burnt out or not functioning properly you will also have issues

the same process should help you sort out the tail and brake light
If I remember right stock had an independent tag light so that would give you extra wire/s

if you brought it to Waterloo I could probably fix it up in a matter of minutes

[sebastien]

oh man, if i only i could, u'd find me in waterloo this evening!

am thinking of a couple other solutions. i'll test and post my results.. i actually tried to safty thru a hurley davidson dealer, its the only one qualified here in kingston (as far as i kno)

[sebastien]

SWEET!!

LED grid instead of the bulb solved the problem

[rexazz2]

BTW
most licenced garages can do bike safetys , just dont like to because they dont know or have someone qualified to work on them