[airforceranger49]

how much you wanna bet the ()*&^)(*& solenoid is bad!! (or just stuck)

Im going to either A: unstuck said solenoid, or B: run jumper wires out, so when the bike starts by starter I then "manually" connect the solenoid and see if that fixes said problem. If thats it then I can replace the cdi...

wait.. depends on how much it costs. I dont mind being the brains of my own bike!!!

connect a 12v power source to the solenoid, and see if you hear a click, disconnect and reconnect... listen for a click... if you hear it, then check your power source coming into the solenoid, once you hit the starter

[kevin2502000]

how much you wanna bet the ()*&^)(*& solenoid is bad!! (or just stuck)

Im going to either A: unstuck said solenoid, or B: run jumper wires out, so when the bike starts by starter I then "manually" connect the solenoid and see if that fixes said problem. If thats it then I can replace the cdi...

wait.. depends on how much it costs. I dont mind being the brains of my own bike!!!

A bad solenoid would have no effect on the bike running. If it didn't work, it wouldn't turn the starter over. If it was "stuck", it would start but turn the starter over as soon as you turned the key on. That would be rare to have your starter engaged all the time. You are describing as if the starter button is somehow also acting as the kill switch when u release it. Thats all I can tell you.

[lbebusiness]

you are right the solenoid has been working just fine.... so then what is it? its NOT wiring... everything is stock but the lights, and the lights are disassembled... so something burnt out... its not the dash, the bike does the same thing when it is disconnected

it IS electrical

not the lights (disconnected)
not the fuses (all working and been checked)
not the dash (disconnected)
not the speed sensor (leaves tach sensor)
not the battery (external source)
not the alternator (disconnected)

if something on the CID shorted would that explain anything? (its got solid glue all over it, but I can check the pins and im working on removing the glue)

[kevin2502000]

Possibly but I wouldn't run out and buy one yet. Thats how unsure I am. Too bad you couldn't borrow or find a known used one dirt cheap to test.

[Kreylyn]

Has the ignition switch been messed with any? Pretty sure I remember something about there being a "security" feature with the post kats and the switch causing issues if someone tried to circumvent it.

If not...

The bike is in neutral, side kick down. clutch switch on, kill switch is on (like so the bike runs, on)

also the starter button was lost and replaced with another push type, and of course he getto wired that as well. I have checked the wiring and it was done right.

Kill switch and starter button are on the same assembly, plugs into the harness together. If the harness plug has not been tampered with, I would first swap out with a OEM kill switch and starter pod. It just does not sound to me like the current setup is properly wired.

Your looking at restoring the bike anyways, right?

Krey

[loudnlow7484]

I think the first step here is to do the following......

Disconnect the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter and replace it with a jumper cable. Start the bike as you normally do, and then when it is running, (while still holding the starter button) disconnect the jumper cable from the solenoid. This will kill power to the starter, while still leaving the rest of the funky circuitry the same. There are two possible outcome of this experiment, and some possibilities with each.

Outcome #1- The engine continues to run until you let go of the starter button (even though the starter has been disconnected.

- In this case, you can be assured that you have a wiring issue. Somehow, somewhere, the starter button is killing the ignition when released. It could be somehow tied into one of the safety switches, or it could be tied into the cdi or coil wiring.

Outcome #2- The engine dies as soon as you pull the jumper cable off of the starter solenoid (killing power to the starter, but keeping the starter button engaged)

1- The engine is in fact NOT running well enough to keep going on its own power, and is depending on the starter to keep it turning.

2- There is an electrical fault (probably in the cdi box) that only faults when the voltage is high (when the starter is not drawing it down)

I would also check the mass of connections on the throttle side of the battery box to make sure that everything is correctly plugged in. I would also like to know if the CDI unit has any knowledge of when the starter is engaged. If there is, for example, a wire that goes live to the CDI box only when the starter is engaged, then it could have a timing retard built in for starting. If this is the case, and the bike will only run on the retarded timing, then you could have a bad CDI or timing that is way off (check the ignition pickup). Mind you, I'm just spouting off ideas here; the first step is what I described above, then go from there.

[lbebusiness]

Loud N Low

Outcome#2

Starter is disconnected at relay, I put the edge of the connected to hang on the inside of where the screw goes, and use a screw driver to pull it off when bike starts

Effect: Bike dies.


Outcome #2.1

Turn key to the "on" position, and disconnect starter, or disconnect first then turn on, either way same effect #2.1

Effect # 2.1
Ignition fuse blows faster than a katana 1100 on NOS.

But fuse wont blow if I take the connecter off the starter relay...
as soon as I put it back on !BAM! out goes the fuse... So im looking into a short along that harness...


okay, i have EVERYTHING disconnected now, other than grounds. The ONLY thing on is the 4 wire connector that goes to the ICU, those wires go to the tach, the ignition coils, and ground. The ignitions coils are disconnected, the tach is disconnected, and I still get a connection from Ground to Positive (orange) (if you connect the ignition switch it goes from orange to red (supposed to do that)

so harness wise, I would say its fine, because without the 4 wire connector on the ICU there is NO short...

I disabled both spark coils, the "W" cable goes to the left spark coil only, so that leaves 3 cables.
I disabled both spark coils and the Tach (the whole display is unplugged) and "B/Y" goes to both of those, so that leaves 2 cables.

Which are : O/Y and B/W and I bet you O/Y is power and B/W is ground. and further testing shows there is a connection on the ICU between O/Y and B/W... is that normal?

And remember the tach goes up to 7k rpm when i put power to the bike...

[lbebusiness]

THE RIGHT IGNITION COIL WAS CONNECTED INCORRECTLY, POWER AND BOTTOM PIN AND GROUND UP TOP.

WHY THE (*&^ WOULD ANYONE SWAP OUT THOSE WIRES?!




3 days up, 3 hours of sleep total.
800$ broken bike

Being able to actually ride the sucker. Priceless?