Pre Kat 600 Ignition

[smokintalon]

Just wondering if anyone had a gap spec for the pickup. I set it at .026 in because I couldn't find any specs for it. I adjusted it because the gap seemed a little large. What is the factory spec? If no one knows, what's the spec on yours?

Another thing, I'm having issues above 6 or 7k rmps. I'm 100% certain it's not fuel related. Everything on that side of things is spotless! I promise!

I tested the continuity on both coils. I am getting nothing on the primary circuit and between 10 and 13 ohms on the secondary. If I'm getting nothing on the primary, theoretically, they shouldn't even be firing, right?

[paul.miner]

Nothing as in open or short?

EDIT: And what are your issues above 6 or 7k rpms?

[Black_peter]

You're not measuring the coils right.

[smokintalon]

peter: how do I measure the coils then? I followed step by step from the book on testing them. Is the testing proceedure in the book wrong or am I just having problems reading?

The "issues" I'm having is that the bike cuts out or starts 'chopping' the throttle after 6 or 7k. It only does this under load, in neutral you can rev it just fine to 11,5 if you want(which is nice and smooth and quick). I've search through the forum looking for an answer and found that several people were having similar issues with no definite answer.

[Black_peter]

If it is only under load then I don't think it is the coils.
After all in neutral the heat on the coils that might be causing the short is higher.
You should be getting something like 20,000 ohms on the secondary (plug side)
and something like 5 ohms on the primary (12 volt, input side) If you have nothing on the secondary your coils are either dead or like I said you're measuring off the wrong place. The 13 ohms you're saying is on the secondary might be ok if you are actually measuring the primary.. Actually if you haven't removed the plug wires (and who could blame you) then you need to add the wire resistance, something like 5K ohm/foot..

If your cutting out only with moving look for:
1. Bad ground
2. loose/ bad wire in the tach loom.
3. side stand switch.
4. loose wires on the CDI.

I checked Sweetlou's signal generator gap as he was having a cut out at 3.5K I think it was .025".. I think. I measured another bikes gap so I don't remember the number.
I also don't think I found it in the book anywhere.

[DumbLuck]

you need a GOOD digital multi meter toget a reliable reading when you go from 5 ohms to 20k ohms.

as Peter mentioned, i'd suspect the sidestand safety switch being vibrated open. check the switch and spring tension.

as a side note, when anyone says their carbs are "spotless" chances are they're not. MINE included.

[Black_peter]

as a side note, when anyone says their carbs are "spotless" chances are they're not. MINE included.

Hmm how many times did we tear into Jans??

[smokintalon]

I'll start checking connections, grounds, and resistance across all wires to see if there's a problem there. I'll check the free length of the side stand spring as well (never thought about that because I didn't hear it vibrating or bouncing, but I guess you really wouldn't hear it anyway)

I did get the primary and secondary backwards. The 13 ohms is on the primary, not the secondary. When I check the secondary, is that at the plug wire end with the boot, without the boot? The diagrams in the manual just show the coil without wires.

[Black_peter]

I did get the primary and secondary backwards. The 13 ohms is on the primary, not the secondary. When I check the secondary, is that at the plug wire end with the boot, without the boot? The diagrams in the manual just show the coil without wires.

Want to turn a simple project into an all day swear fest? Remove the wires from the coils..
Just measure from boot to boot..

[smokintalon]

secondary on the left coil(1&4) is 30,000 ohms and the right coil(2&3) is 34,000 ohms. I'm still going through the harness checking wires and connections.

[smokintalon]

all four primary wires to the coils have 0 ohms from the CDI connector to the coil connectors. I tested the resistance for the signal generator at the connection on the CDI and got 190 ohms. (when testing at the CDI connectors, these were disconnected from the CDI before testing)

Tested the wiring and sidestand switch. Wiring is good and switch tested ok (0 ohms in up position and infinity in down position. I couldn't find any specs on the spring, but on mine the free length of the inside spring is: 120mm and the outside spring is: 121mm

Went back and tested the primary circuit on each coil because the numbers didn't match up. They are both at 3ohms not 13. Sorry.

[smokintalon]

After checking around a bit further, I did find that the connections on the CDI were lightly corroded. Not too bad, but just a light haze. I cleaned them and put dielectric grease on them. I'll take it for a spin and see if that was the problem.

And thanks peter. I didn't know about leaving the plug wires on the coils to test them since the manual doesn't specify that. And I apologize for degrading the Kats. They aren't bad bikes. I was just frustrated with it like most of us are when we are trying to diagnose problems on these things.

[steves]

The resistance will change if you leave the plug boots on as well. The factory manual suggests to remove them.

[smokintalon]

I guess there are a few different manuals going around then. Mine doesn't specify leaving them on, taking them off, removing the boots, or anything. It just shows a drawn diagram of the coil pointing to one side as the primary and pointing to the other side as the secondary. It doesn't even show wires.

[steves]

The factory manual (available from the wiki) describes removing the boots as I recall.