Valve job botched

[Prymaldark]

I just finished reassembling my bike last night, after adjusting the valves. Everything seemed to be in spec, but a few needed slight adjustments to be closer to their neighbor. Or so I thought.

She seemed to run well enough while syncing the carbs, which I think went quite well. I split my manometer in half and it was far easier than trying to work with all four hooked up at once. Much less time, almost none, was spent redistributing the fluid while working with only two at a time.

The quick trip down the road was not so great, strange surging and/or hesitation over 4k RPMs. Sounds a bit like a dirt bike as the revs climb, though this was starting just before taking apart to do the valves. I think I need to seek some local assistance with the proper feel of feeler gauges. Reading can only get one so far; this seems like something that will be much more easily communicated in person.

[92xjunker]

I will say this, it's not your valves, carbs for sure...

[burninrock24]

I was amazed with how much impact the carbs have on the drivability of the bike. Even if you don't think anything is wrong with them.

[Prymaldark]

Well I will take them apart first then. How much an issue would a little ATF in the vaccuum port cause? Carb #1 managed to get a little up the line before I split the manometer.

[92xjunker]

None, most likely crap in the carbs

[shpielers]

Just checking - you synced the carbs in pairs right? 1 to 2 and 3 to 4. Did you then sync 2 to 3? If not, you need to.

Also, need the rpms at 1800 while syncing. If they don't get to 1800, get it as close as you can. Sync. Then readjust the idle closer to 1800. Resync. Readjust idle. Rinse repeat etc.

[Prymaldark]

Yes, I made sure to sync each side, then across the middle as well. I had the revs a little below the 2k line while working on them. I will give them another go. I will try to sync them first, then dismantle and clean them if the problem persists.

I have been getting horrible mileage all season, and had thought it due to the valves, as I had one exhaust valve replaced last fall. Perhaps it was due to my previous attempt at syncing the carbs. The two inside plugs were noticeably blacker than the outer ones when I had them out the other day. Though, it ran well until this most recent tank, which is when it started to sound like a dirt bike at times.

[skjeflo]

Carbs dirty or possibly air leaks in the intake system somewhere...

[Prymaldark]

Katriders solves it again! 92xjunker, you get points!

There was a bug that managed to get stuck in the main jet of #4, and another in the upper reaches above the float bowl of #3. I got rid of them, and gave the pilots a quick blast through with carb spray for good measure. Throttle response was very nice on the quick, 1 mile or so, test run.

I am still concerned that I did not get the valves done as well as I would have liked, but that is probably just me being worrisome and/or perfectionist. I think the bike sounds a bit ticky right now. Here is a short video, sorry about the quality, it was taken with my cellular device. The ticky sound is a bit muted on the video; I'll make another video with the gopro later.

[92xjunker]

Kats are a bit ticky anyway. You can recheck, also check the cam chain tensioner.

[Prymaldark]

After a few more test miles, I was going to leave it alone; the bike was running quite well. However, apparently some force thought that I should take the time to go back in. Today the oil drain plug fell out on the road. I could not find where it went, but luckily Bikebandit has them available.

Perhaps this is partly why the repair manual says to change the o-ring every time the drain bolt is removed. Apparently checking the drain plug torque needs to be added to my pre-ride check as well. Since I have to wait awhile for the replacement bolt to arrive, as well as wanting to check for damage, I think I'll be opening the top end again.

[ZukiFred]

I would recomend you Upgrade to a Fumoto F-111 Oil Drain Valve

[Prymaldark]

Well that is a beautiful little chunk of brass. I already ordered the stock replacement, but I think I'll have to pick up one of those as well. Thank you, ZukiFred.

I am curious about one thing though. The stock bolt includes the magnet to pick up any metal shavings that might be in the oil. Should I install another magnet to compensate for the loss of the original when switching to the Fumoto plug? Any suggestions on the topic, if so?