Piston and Ring Removal Help???

[Ryanostibby2015]

Hey,

Well I havent posted in awhile but im currently tearing down the motor to replace piston rings and possibly pistons and using this bike also as a learning tool for the future but I got the motor out of the frame, removed the barrel and at this point in the clymer book its telling me to do all the surface tests and along with alot of stuff im still trying to rap my head around, so for the guys thats done this is there a easier way to get the pistons out at this point to replace the rings and keep moving or is it a situation to go buy another motor and chuck the 1 ive got which is in bad shape...

[92xjunker]

Pull the circlips from the piston pins and slide the pin out, boom off. Watch those circlips they fly pretty good or they will fall in the motor. Ring removal is easy but, do not distort the rings if you want to check fitment in the cylinder before you replace them. It's probably best to replace them if the Milage is high, 50,000+

[41 Redhawk]

You don't have to take the piston off the connecting rod to check or replace the rings.

[Yeoj112689]

+1 on the piston clips! Launched one across the garage and spent an hour trying to find it. Gave up and ended up finding it another day on accident lol.

[92xjunker]

You don't have to take the piston off the connecting rod to check or replace the rings.

+1

[bloke45]

Teardown 110x

Hey Guys,
I've rebuilt a number of GSX engines (4 valve TSCC) among others, and discovered some little tricks along the way.
#1 Most Important. ALL manuacturers don't build new machines from the ground up these days. If you break up a machine into its systems (brakes, wheels, switches, forks, electrics, engines etc) you will find the same parts being used across models and years eg. blinkers, levers, Handle bar switches, mirrors, brake light switches, brake calipers and discs, swingarms, shocks and forks, wheel bearings and spokes (if used), carburettors, fuel pumps and injectors and so on.
Engine parts can be common accross models eg rockers and adjusters, pistons and con-rods, rings and bearings and some gearbox gears.
Because I've been exposed to a few over the years I can mostly pick 'em by sight these days eg wheels (mags or spoked) from GS500 up to GSX1100 are interchangeable. Brake discs and calipers from GS500 up to GSX1100 are interchangeable. All handlebar switch clusters from the same year models.

Pretty much all manufacturers do it, Cat, Detroit, GM, Ford, Nissan, Subaru, Suzuki, Kawaski etc. (Now they're moving some parts between manufacturers or calling the same machine something different in another country... to put potential parts chasers off).
Finding these connections is my OCD

That ought to whet ur appetites for starters. More to come

[41 Redhawk]

+1 on the piston clips! Launched one across the garage and spent an hour trying to find it. Gave up and ended up finding it another day on accident lol.

Personally I wouldn't spend much time looking for a circlip assuming it didn't go down into the motor. You need to replace it if you remove it. They are not meant to be reused.

[Ryanostibby2015]

Well started looking a lot closer and found rust on a piston and the cyclinder so ima chuck this motor up for parts and try and find a different motor.......this sucks but I did gain a lot of knowledge doing this tear down

Or just part it out 1 lol

[92xjunker]

Fairly cheap to fix that.

[IanDMacDonald]

Well started looking a lot closer and found rust on a piston and the cyclinder so ima chuck this motor up for parts and try and find a different motor.......this sucks but I did gain a lot of knowledge doing this tear down

Or just part it out 1 lol

Huh? Time to gain a little more then! Move that piston to the bottom of it's stroke and scuff off the corrosion with a scotchbrite pad or steel wool, (try to catch all the particles with a rag stuffed into the bore and wipe it down after your done). Once the bore is clean and lubricated move the piston to the top of it's stroke, and vacuum out the space between the top ring and the piston, (use a feeler gauge to get into the narrow space to work the dirt out).

Any particles trapped in this space will not come out on their own, and will cause scratches on the bore. Move the piston up and down in the bore to make sure nothing is left...wipe in-between each stroke with a clean white rag soaked in clear mineral oil until nothing comes off the bore face. When you don't get dirt on the rag it's done.

It is important it be absolutely clean, as anything trapped in the ring land space will only carbonize (sp?), and get stuck, and possibly trap the ring or scuff the cylinder wall.

[92xjunker]

Or just pull the cylinder off and run a hone threw it.

[Ryanostibby2015]

Wow okay and you think it will be fine afterwards because I thought about just replacing the piston and rings now I got them this far the piston has a lot of carbon build up and the motor was leaking oil out of the exhaust and that is what lead to the tear down, then again I could just replace the rings and go with 92xjunkers suggestion

[92xjunker]

Check the valve guides and seals also.

[shpielers]

+1.
I'd just replace the valve stem seals if you're that deep already. Carbon buildup should come off if you soak them in chem dip and hit them with a brass brush.

[Ryanostibby2015]

Well I'm still learning with this engine and I'm the process now of trying to make sure I get the right size piston rings and sorry ahead of time but is piston rings supposed to be loose and sliding around on the piston and from your experience were the best place to find stems and all valvles/ seals to