Fork removal procedure Q's.

[1LE]

It's probably the first time these front forks have ever come off of this low mileage 1994 GSXF600 (and it has spent a lot of time sitting out the in elements with previous owners), so I'm not surprised there are some difficulties. Looking for any tricks or tips to try to get the last few stuck items (all have been hit with PB Blaster a few times over the last 2 days with no apparent effect):

- Fender (front) screws are horribly stuck. One came loose eventually. Another the head stripped out. The other 2 I'm afraid I'll break the wrench and/or strip them out. The amount of force I'm putting on them is beyond ridiculous. It's looking like I'll have to drill them out. Can I remove the forks still tied together with the fender and deal with it once the forks are out?

- It looks like the handle "bars" have to come off to get any kind of reasonable access to the fork upper mount bolts. Unfortunately, the bolts for the handle bars won't budge. I broke loose the nut on the bottom of each side, but the bolts still won't move. Is this bolt threaded into the bars/metal plate or can I safely take a metal rod and a sledgehammer to it to try and knock it loose (turning via hex key has been an abject failure so far)?

I'm using this as a learning project, so I'm not in a huge rush (but yeah, it would be nice to be riding since we've finally got good weather). If I just need to soak in PB Blaster for a week or so, I'm game to try it. I'd prefer not to spend the money, but ultimately if I fail, I *can* throw the front wheel on and have the LBS swing by with a trailer too and do this part.

Thanks!

[cool4kats]

I believe the handlebar bolt actually has threads in the triple but I am not sure. I now remember that I did have one of the fender bolts strip inside the head, that is when I changed them to larger allen heads. I ended up using a dremel tool to cut a notch for a larger flat head that ended up working but probably was not as stuck as yours.
Good luck with it.

[92xjunker]

True. The clip-on bolt is threaded into the top triple and backed with a nut. You can remove the forks as a set, you'll need help so they can be removed evenly. I personally would pull the top triple and remove the whole fork assembly so it will be easier to get the fender and brace off and that will give you the opportunity to check the steering head bearings, if they are broken up or rusty, they'll need replaced. Replace the races at the same time if the bearings need replaced. Trick: wedge a large screw driver in the triple where the clamp split is to allow the forks to be pulled easier.

[cool4kats]

+1 on checking steering stem bearings. It is said to feel for any notches while turning left and right. I had a wobble but could never feel any problem until I had the forks and bars off. Then I could feel a major catching spot (typically when everything is facing forward). Put in new races and bearings and could finally remove my hands from the bars with no I'll effect.

[1LE]

Still marinating everything in PB Blaster. Picked up some hex bits since I've gotten nowhere with hex keys. Need more leverage. Sometime this weekend I should be finding out how many bolts/screws will come out, how many will strip, will I break a hex bit, and will I break a breaker bar... Must remember safety glasses and gloves for this attempt...

Bets on the outcome?

My guess is that one of the handlebar bolts will come loose with extreme effort and nothing breaking and the hex bit will break on the second one. I then expect to strip the remaining fender screws and have to try notching, then that'll strip out, and I'll be drilling them out. The breaker bar should hold up, I've only ever broken those on big 30 something mm wheel nuts on cars...

[cool4kats]

We will keep our fingers crossed that after some soaking, they will decide to come out without any real problems. I hate when a 1 minute part of a job becomes an entire job in itself.
Good luck.

[1LE]

We will keep our fingers crossed that after some soaking, they will decide to come out without any real problems. I hate when a 1 minute part of a job becomes an entire job in itself.
Good luck.

Thanks! Yeah, lately it seems like every project I'm involved in (whether home or work) hits snags like this. At home at least it's somewhat expected as my house and vehicles are all somewhat old and used.

Oh, and confirmed that the clip-on bolts are threaded into the tree. Got one of those bolts out... Full update in the "What did you do to your Kat today" thread... Will attack it again tomorrow...

[1LE]

OK, forks are out and fender off, didn't have to drill out anything after all. Next question! I have disassembly instructions for the tubes, but they're not clear on a couple points:

- At which point/part removed, are the springs going to want to shoot out?/When should I be ready for that?

- How much force is on them? Is it an easy catch with your hand/just prevent it from getting away, or is it a "let them launch into a padded object" type of release force?

[92xjunker]

They will knock your ass silly if your not paying attention. Enough force to hold up the front of your bike with you on it. Just apply pressure to the cap while you remove it, use a couple rags, easier on the hands.

[maniac1886]

The pressure is on the fork cap. Once you get a few turns out, you should be able to do the rest by hand. Just hold the top of the cap firmly and when its about to twist out, hold it. lol It wont over power you and the springs dont really stick out of the tube. Just keep your hand on it and you will be fine.

[1LE]

Alrighty, all my seals (and replacement screws/bolts) arrived today! I also picked up a litre of fork oil of the appropriate weight. Haven't been able to snag a seal driver though... LBS says they can order one, but need to know what size (apparently they can't look that info up?). I also see various ones at online tool places, but don't know what would work. From what I read, I should get a "split design" (I don't know what that means though) if possible. Sorry, totally a newb at this whole fork seal thing.

So... Does anyone know the appropriate size for a '94 Katana 600 or exactly what I should measure to get said size (is the standard measurement done of the ID of the tube or is it related to the seal OD size)?

I've only got this one bike now, but if anyone knows a Snap-On (or other decent manufacturer) part number for kit that includes the size I need as well as other common motorcycle sizes, I'm willing to do that too. I'm not a big fan of spending money, but odds are that I'll be doing this operation on other bikes in the future, so I'm OK with getting a nice kit and being prepared ahead of time.

[maniac1886]

So when I did mine, I didn't feel like buying/making a tool so I slid the fork seal down till it stopped, then slid the old seal down on top of it and worked it down by hitting the old seal with a 3/8 6in extension and rubber mallet. It took a little bit of time but it did the trick

[shpielers]

Do that ^ but use a PVC pipe that's split lengthwise to drive it instead of a mallet. Works great. Total cost...maybe $2

[1LE]

Sounds good, I'll do that. With the bushing on the inner tube and the shelf on the outer tube it should be pretty simple to seat that way.

I got the first one apart today. And other than the damper bolt & washer which did not want to fall out when it was supposed to (but fell out later) and splashing some fork oil all over the garage when I pulled the seal out, it didn't go too bad. A few minutes of head scratching here and there trying to figure out what the direction *really* meant at times. I'm sure disassembly on the second one will smoother, but first let's try to get this one completed!

So, next stupid question...

How to judge the wear of the bushing? Looking for a go/no go gage...

The instructions I'm using have 2 bushing pictures, a "bad" and a "good".
- "Bad" is all brown on the inside and the outside is copper colored with obvious big shiny patches that I presume are the damage.
- "Good" is all brown on the outside and the inside is kinda copper colored with a slight highlight around the middle of the bushing.

My bushing is the exact opposite of "Good" above... The *inside* is perfectly brown and the outside is kinda copper colored with just a slight bit of a highlight around the middle. If the coating is the "brown", does the copper showing mean the coating is worn? If that's true, how is their "good" one any good? Light copper color OK wear, but bright shiny is excessive? Should I go ahead and reuse it, or am I placing a parts order (obviously since you can't see it in hand I only expect your best *guess* based on my attempted description )? The bike only has 13k miles on it and I see no evidence of any damage either inside or outside of any of the fork assembly.