Sump plug thread fix - Options

[knk]

Hi Guys,

On my 1100fj I (or someone else) appear to have at some stage overtightened the sump bolt. Threads are mangled and coming out of it.

Anyway, just looking at my options. Easiest way seems to be an oversized bolt which will cut it's own 15mm thread. Looks like you can get them with it's own drain bolt so I don't need to ever take the bolt out again. So I was thinking of using one of these with some appropriate loctite.

Other options....helicoil, manually re-tap to 15mm without use of an oversized plug, weld up and re-tap (can't do this one myself).

Thoughts?

[arsenic]

I've never heard of an over sized bolt cutting it's own threads, but that would certainly be easiest. Tapping the hole yourself isn't that hard. If you do tap it larger and get a larger drain bolt, do yourself a favor and buy a torque wrench. I don't know the Aussie equivalent of Harbor Freight is (dirt cheap, poor quality tools). That's not what I mean.

[knk]

I have a torque wrench, small one though. 1/4" I think? Bought it when I changed the clutch on my vz800. Wouldn't be ideal for this large a bolt.

What's the torque spec on the sump bolt?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Laser-Tools-Oil-Drain-Plug-Sump-Pump-Repair-Kit-/201257459848?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2edbe12088

I'm thinking of using this, has everything I could possibly need. looked into oversized bolts and it's not a self tapping one as I thought. Seems half assed to be honest.

[arsenic]

The size of the bolt is not the issue. The drain bolt is a stronger metal than the aluminum of the oil pan, or sump as you call it. Therefore the torque specs are really low because if you over tighten the bolt, it will strip the aluminum treads on the oil pan. 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" isn't what I'm talking about. You'll want a small torque wrench in IN-LBS, not FT-LBS.

[knk]

yeah we call it a sump here. I think the one I've got is a 3/8 actually...it's sitting in the shed somewhere. Could just slap a few adaptors on it.

I meant that I wouldn't actually have a socket for the wrench. Do you know the torque rating for the drain plug by any chance? I'll borrow an appropriate wrench once I've tapped the new threads.

http://www.suzukicycles.org/GSX-series/GSX1100F_numbers.shtml

18-25ft-lbs apparently https://www.dropbox.com/s/9383adcwcy...G0075.jpg?dl=0 , been used so few times I never took the sticker off.

[shpielers]

You meant a Fumoto valve for the draining without removal yeah? Seems like a fair number of people here have mentioned having them, but haven't seen any problems popping up because of them. Not a bad idea. They come in a variety if sizes, should be able to get something that'll work.

[knk]

The one I was describing actually just had a 10mm bolt inside the 15mm bolt that you removed to drain. From my reading it takes ages for the oil to drain but in my mind it's preferred since I'll be tapping out to 15mm and don't think I'm going to have much more meat to play with.

Fumoto would be a better option, I'll see if I can find a local stockist or something similar down here. I want to have this done before my mirrors arrive, Immediately after they're on and this is fixed I'm booking in the roadworthy . I'm dreading loading it onto the back of the ute though.

edit:
Just thinking now aswell and I'm not sure a fumoto is a good option at this stage. Since I'll have to get the roadworthy cert they may pick on the fumoto being too close to the ground.

I may just re-tap for 15mm and put a regular bolt so it doesn't look out of the ordinary. Next oil change I'll consider a valve.

edit: ordered the kit with the taps and sump plugs, worked out barely any more to just get an entire set 12-20mm, hopefully this is the only time I need to use it.. I'll let everyone know how it goes.

[knk]

Fixed! Tapped it out to M15 and new bolt, doesn't seem to be leaking so fingers crossed.

So this is what I did after I'd drained the oil for anyone who may be interested:
1. Carefully balanced the bike hanging off the slab of my shed / pavers so I had more clearance.
2. Proceeded to fear for the bike and my life as it was on so much of an angle
3. Covered tap in grease to hold all the shavings.
4. Tapped the thread, bit hard to get started but once it was going no issues. I measured the tap against the old bolt and covered it in teflon tape to mark where I should go up to. I went about 4mm past this to make enough thread. (Measured clearance under there don't worry).
5. covered a rag in grease and wiped away at the threads.
6. Bolt in and out multiple times covered in grease till there were practically no shavings coming off with the bolt.
7. Ran cheap oil through it, around 1l to drop any additional shavings out.
8. Put bolt in, filled with oil and started.
9. Became extremely anxious to actually ride the bike

[mammut89]

for the price of a liter of oil you could have bought a new oil pan gasket , removed it retap and reinstall with new gasket. thats my recomendation. but good that you solved the problem.

[shpielers]

Personally I would have done that ^

If nothing else I'd be curious to see how much sludge/crap has collected in the oil pan, and clean everything out. + I'd want to peek at the tranny and try to get a look at the shift forks.

[knk]

A litre of oil was worth $4, probably about the cost of a gasket but it would've been more work. This did the trick and was a quick fix for me.

[knk]

Just coming back to this for anyone else who might go through it.

There was a slow leak coming from the new plug, replaced the metal washer with a fiber one and all is well.