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Major knocking started then just went away??? WTF

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  • Major knocking started then just went away??? WTF

    Ok so today I was going on a ride with the guys and we are on a back road with no traiffic, literally no cars for 20 miles I give the '88 1100 a bit of throttle action and we stop at the pub for a beer.

    Get back on the bike and ride for 5 mins then it sounds like something internal wants to get out. I pull the clutch in and the knocking changes with engine rpms not road speed so it's definitly engine related. I pull over and tells the guys I'm going to dribble home slowly, they are coming back the same way so that's all good.

    The knocking continues but I can lessen it by doing about 60 mph when I lift off it sounded like something knocking like shit. Then about 10 mins into the ride home the noise just stops, not only that but the bike is quieter than it's ever been before. I give it a little throttle and it's fine. Noise has gone and not come back. Also the cam chain noise has completely gone. Everyone who would ride it would ask about the cam chain noise, I was planing on doing it when I did the rings as it's drinking oil.

    What's going on here?

    Weird thing is it sound quieter than ever. Is this cam tensions issues?

    The engine has about 75,000 on it and I don't think it's been worked on ever ...or at least for a very long time.

  • #2
    oil was good i topped it up before i left. Previous owner was stupid there was no front sprocket nut when i brought it.

    I pulled the auto tensioner out and cleaned it about 3000 miles ago. Time to replace it?

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    • #3
      Wouldn't hurt.
      "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
      spammer police
      USAF veteran
      If your a veteran, join the KR veterans group

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      • #4
        Manual chain tensioner might not be a bad way to go - you can get one brand new. Not sure if you can get a new one for an 1100 without breaking the bank.
        1998 Katana 750
        1992 Katana 1100
        2006 Ninja 250

        2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

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        • #5
          I'be been looking at the manual ones any recommendations with them?

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          • #6
            some people recomend the APE tensioner. Just know that you need to manually adjust it once a year or more often if you ride a lot. Means more maintenance. You could try to change the spring on the tensioner you already have. thats what I did. Your knocking sound could be a stuck or not properly seated valve too at times.
            2015 BMW S1000R

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            • #7
              Originally posted by mammut89 View Post
              some people recomend the APE tensioner. Just know that you need to manually adjust it once a year or more often if you ride a lot. Means more maintenance. You could try to change the spring on the tensioner you already have. thats what I did. Your knocking sound could be a stuck or not properly seated valve too at times.
              How do you know the tension is right?

              I like manual things they cause less issues. I'm thinking of modifying the factory one in to manual as I don't what to wait for it to come from the US.

              Does the engine need to come apart to do the cam chain? ...I need to check the manual

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              • #8
                the manufacturer probably has a manual of how tight it should be , probably something along the lines of tighten till there is a lot of resistance then back it up half a turn ... ( something like that ) DONT use this a a manual though I am just babling something.

                changing the cam chain itself is a major thing, I wouldnt spend time on that. unless you want to spend several weeks or months tearing down the engine. Id just buy a used engine on ebay.
                2015 BMW S1000R

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                • #9
                  A stuck valve will make a lot of noise then go away when the spring gets it moving again.
                  Blackdog
                  DRz-400e plated
                  Blue 05 750 (sold, sob)

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