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Trouble starting on a cold morning, any ideas?

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  • Trouble starting on a cold morning, any ideas?

    I start my bike every morning just about, but it is hesitant to fire up especially when it is really cold. 30-36 degrees outside. The starter is fine and just seems to take a minute to get turned over. Any ideas?

  • #2
    Battery?

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    • #3
      It's cold

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      • #4
        Originally posted by arsenic View Post
        It's cold
        This. You could set it run a bit more rich but honestly there isn't much to contribute besides cranking speed (battery) or fuel delivery.
        - Purplehaze
        All-Black 1993 Suzuki Katana 600 (Click for pictorial fun!)

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        • #5
          The Battery needs replaced, but i boost it from a car battery and jumper cables and it cranks good. It will sputter a couple of times the carbs are clean, but still take a minute to fire up.

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          • #6
            That's cause it's cold.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by MadJams24 View Post
              The Battery needs replaced, but i boost it from a car battery and jumper cables and it cranks good. It will sputter a couple of times the carbs are clean, but still take a minute to fire up.
              They really don't like starting cold. Batteries produce less energy as temperature drops, starters turn slower.

              Originally posted by Car Battery FAQs
              What Are Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)?

              The car battery’s Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) is an important measure for good cranking ability in cars, trucks and boats. CCA is the amount of current or amps a battery can provide at 0 °F (−18 °C) for 30 second duration until the battery voltage drops to unusable levels. The rating is defined as the current or amps a car battery at can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12-volt battery) at 0 °F.

              For example, a 12 volt battery with 650 CCA ratings means the battery will provide 650 amps for 30 seconds at 0°F before the voltage falls to 7.20 volts for 12v battery. So in extremely cold temperatures, the higher CCA level is required to crank your engine. In addition, as more cranking power is used, the amount of battery power available decreases.
              Other than opting to bump start or simply cranking there's really no solution unless you've got a Formula One Engine Oil Warmer...

              EDIT: Also, just because your carbs are clean they might not be set correctly. You might find better luck by lowering the idle adjustment (closing the throttle plate, backing the screw out, or "lefty loosey") then starting it. Cold engines require more fuel to run, in order the achieve that A/F ratio when running cold there's a choke.

              You might be running lean while warm, which means it runs even more lean when cold. Ensure you have the proper A/F ratio using an idle drop.

              Richen the mixture by letting less air through, or adding more fuel. Jump the battery from another source, keep cranking, or bump start.

              That said, my bike has started after maybe 5 seconds of cranking in 15 degree weather. It differs from carb setups.
              Last edited by Purplehaze; 02-19-2014, 02:35 PM.
              - Purplehaze
              All-Black 1993 Suzuki Katana 600 (Click for pictorial fun!)

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              • #8
                Thanks Haze, I will adjust the A/F ratio and see if that helps. I'll adjust the idle too, thanks for the help.

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                • #9
                  My Kat never liked starting when it was in the 32-45 F range.
                  Kyle

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by MadJams24 View Post
                    Thanks Haze, I will adjust the A/F ratio and see if that helps. I'll adjust the idle too, thanks for the help.
                    If you want my opinion don't touch either, or at-least touch only the idle long enough to get it started and warmed up as needed. It has trouble starting in the COLD, when the majority of your riding will be inhibited.

                    It runs fine in the warm, yes? Don't fux with it then. Obviously the perfectionist in me would tell you to do an idle drop and a carb sync afterwards anyways because that's what will get your carbs perfect. If it runs perfect in the summer though don't go messing with things just so it runs better when it's colder.
                    - Purplehaze
                    All-Black 1993 Suzuki Katana 600 (Click for pictorial fun!)

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                    • #11
                      My '95 600 cranks and runs fine down to around 35 degrees or so. That would be open the choke, drop the transmission to neutral, hit the go button. Fires on first crank.

                      Below that it has taken a little extra cranking time before it would fire up and stay running. So far the coldest I've fired it up at was around 19 degrees. Took three rounds of cranking (1 -2 seconds each) before it caught and stayed running.

                      Bike is stored outside with a tarp over it at night. It is ridden 2-7 days every week on average. The longest it has been stationary since I put it on the road in June was 10 days in a row, when snow and ice coated the roads.

                      Don't tune it for the weather, just tune/clean it so its RIGHT, then ride it!
                      Last edited by skjeflo; 02-20-2014, 01:18 AM.

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                      • #12
                        I just adjusted the idle, to get it running smooth and that solved it, i adjusted it back to normal afterwards. Thanks for all of the help

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