Dynojet/more stupid carb Q's

[sk8r_opie]

Ok dynojet says under low speed and crusing AND midrange RPM trouble to verify the float bowl vent tube is removed.(#72 at link below)

89 GSX600F Carb. exploded view

Does this mean just remove the tube/hose?
If so... Does it pointing down have some effect I dont know about?
Or... Does it mean to remove the float bowl vent itself by means of blocking this tube?

Does blocking or removing the tube have a positive or negative effect or both in different ways?

ALSO...dynojet says that deceleration popping from exhaust can be caused by the Air Suction System(CA models only). If I blocked this to help/prevent exhaust popping on deceleration what effect may it have on my ACCELERATION?...BACKPRESSURE? and HIGH RPM PERFORMANCE?

[illinoiskat]

After you get the main set up. Does the bike pop when you shut the throttle in gear at speed? If yes richen up the idle circuit, turn the idle screw out. Or, go up one size in the idle jets.

[sk8r_opie]

Just got off work but before leaving I splashed some water on my headers and started 'er up held the throttle a little to keep it from dieing and turned off the choke. Looking at the pipes: 3-4 seconds after turning the choke off #4 then immediately following #2 steamed the water off the header right next to flanges maybe as much as a second between, then about 3 seconds following 2 #3 steamed it off but not as quickly, then 4-5 seconds after 3 was dry #1 slowly steamed off the water taking about 5 seconds from first steam to dry. Last time I had my carbs off which was LAST WEEK i reset float heights and reset mixture screws finalizing at 2 & 3/4 turns out on all. BUT I got experimental and curious to see a few days ago as it still wasnt running right(rough at idle, power flat through midrange compared to top range RPM top end is ok [but has been better at one single point in time while test riding after tinkering trial & error] and popping on deceleration),so I tried putting the most restrictive donut in my airbox(i had the lesser in...BTW using K&N rplcmnt. came w/ 2 donuts) this made low end worse mid range worse and top end no effect and deceleration worse. so i took and left the donut out to lean it out more this made idle and low better midrange slightly better and topend really sucky doesnt want to go past 10k just sputters and wont go no more, deceleration is better once engine is warm. any advice would be helpful thinking maybe I need to go to 120 mains instead of 118's(dynojet sizes) then maybe go down a notch on the needles so I can put the less restrictive donut i had back in) and lean my idle circuit a little each one at a time of course. But maybe I should be doing something with the springs? Cyberpoet! your knowledge is recognized vastly among at least katriders.com and respected, advice?[/u]

[illinoiskat]

If your high end is good pull the needles up a clip that should improve midrange. Also, with the KN you should have a hard hit around 7.2k. Thats what mine does, but i got cams in my bike.

TO give you an idea how sensitive the bike is. I had a real good idle circuit but a dead midrange and raised my clips one spot and now the bike barely idles, but has great midrange. I took the bike to the painter for my dented tank and havent touched it since.

Also, shorting your springs is supposed to improve off idel and midrange.

If you have your mains right you should be able to put in 3rd and get maximum acceleration at 8+k with the throttle wide open. If you have to close the throttle by a big margin, not just slightly, its too rich and go down a size on the mains.

[md86]

If it won't go past 10k , I'd think you have a problem wither the main jets (if there are no other problems , anyway) .

[illinoiskat]

What is the setup on your bike? I know you have a KN. pipe? advancer, ect.........

You have to sort your mains first then everything else after. can almost gaurentee your going to have to alter the other stuff, almost.

[md86]

Yeah , you're right . Changing one sircuit effects the rest of them .

[illinoiskat]

The ruff idle. Have you sincronized your carbs lately?

[sk8r_opie]

well my situation is well a long story and I have had to mess with this bike sooo much its rediculous. Anyway my setup is V&H Full exhaust system, dynojet kit using 118 mains and e-clip on 3rd notch down, and a K&N replacement filter using stick air box. Now before I got the bike it was my friends and his other friend had been trying to get it to run after it quit on him and whoever had owned it before him had also messed with it. So alot of things werent right with it. For more info into things I have done working on it READ THISAs for now I pluged the open tube ar the bottom of the airbox, put my less restrictive donut back in, leaned #1 - 1/8 of a turn in and removed the float bowl vent tubes just for the sake that Dynojet said to verify if having problems. Now it is running and idling more smoothly, still need to resync carbs for the millionth time but have not yet reason being I need replacement mercury for my sticks as I think some spilled and it was already low and i want to verify proper amount to ensure a proper sync. Umm yea but it still pops on deceleration some not alot like before but I think i may have exhaust gasket leak when i can will replace those and fix the little tiny tiny pinhole in bottom of exhaust from scraping the ground every once in a while.Thanx a bunch. after reading my tuning info what do you think I should do next?

[illinoiskat]

The hose that is on the bottom of the air box is the water drain hose, I think. If it is, it should be plugged with a cap. With the stock air box there is a 2 foot long hose with a cap on the end that your supposed to take off and drain now and then. That would be a source for a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak will make the engine surge and wont let it idle smoothly or at all. From your other thread if the sycn screws come loose often, use a WEEEAAAK form of loc tite.

[sk8r_opie]

well it was only the middle sync screw that was loose and it was only loose because someone neglected to reinstall the spring on the screw. Im assuming the spring hold the screw from vibrating around, I have pretty good mechanical common sense and there is no other purpose for the spring. Will wait till my mercury comes in to properly sync it and see what happens then, until then though I shall more less properly "nigger rig" all my vacuum lines.(Im not racist so please dont even think it like that) "properly 'nigger rig'"? that means without ordering OEM parts but something that will substitute just as well.