Huge amount of bogging

[RACEnSK8]

Hey guys! I have a few questions for you.

So I have a 95 katana 750 that I bought as a project. When I bought it, it ran but it didn't run ANYTHING LIKE IT SHOULD. The idle was all over the place and when you floor it, it accelerates SOOO SLOW. It bogs really bad. I had this same issue with my old katana 600 and it turned out to be a carb issue. So my brother and I took the bike apart, he checked the timing and said it was good and he did a valve adjustment. Now we just ripped apart the carbs and everything was perfectly clean inside. We could not see any issues with the carbs at all. The only issues that I have found is that 1 of the carb caps has a broken sync port and the pilot screw was out 2.5 turns. I read on the wiki that the pilot screw on the bike should be 1.625. Would this cause all of these symtoms? do you have any other suggestions? Thanks

(btw we didn't try starting the bike with the pilot screw at 1.625 yet)

[Kreylyn]

Hey guys! I have a few questions for you.

So I have a 95 katana 750 that I bought as a project. When I bought it, it ran but it didn't run ANYTHING LIKE IT SHOULD. The idle was all over the place and when you floor it, it accelerates SOOO SLOW. It bogs really bad. I had this same issue with my old katana 600 and it turned out to be a carb issue. So my brother and I took the bike apart, he checked the timing and said it was good and he did a valve adjustment. Now we just ripped apart the carbs and everything was perfectly clean inside. We could not see any issues with the carbs at all. The only issues that I have found is that 1 of the carb caps has a broken sync port and the pilot screw was out 2.5 turns. I read on the wiki that the pilot screw on the bike should be 1.625. Would this cause all of these symtoms? do you have any other suggestions? Thanks

(btw we didn't try starting the bike with the pilot screw at 1.625 yet)

Keep the a/f at 2.5, the OEM setting was too lean per EPA requirements.

Vacuum/air leaks would cause running issues. The broken sync port for example. Also bad orings on the carb boots, poorly sealed air box boots, no airbox with pod filters, or an after market high flow air filter with the air box can also cause problems.

Finally... do the full soak cleaning on the carbs anyways. It could be that while they look clean, one or more of the passages in the carb body could be clogged either fully or partially.

Additionally... bad spark issues (arcing on the engine, bad wires, poor connections on the plug boots, broken boots, bad plugs....) could cause problems with power/running.

Krey

[RACEnSK8]

Keep the a/f at 2.5, the OEM setting was too lean per EPA requirements.

Vacuum/air leaks would cause running issues. The broken sync port for example. Also bad orings on the carb boots, poorly sealed air box boots, no airbox with pod filters, or an after market high flow air filter with the air box can also cause problems.

Finally... do the full soak cleaning on the carbs anyways. It could be that while they look clean, one or more of the passages in the carb body could be clogged either fully or partially.

Additionally... bad spark issues (arcing on the engine, bad wires, poor connections on the plug boots, broken boots, bad plugs....) could cause problems with power/running.

Krey

Yea we did have one plug wire that was questionable, it only had the metal part that goes on the plug and the rubber boot was missing. My brother thinks it could have been possibly arching to the block instead of firing but not sure if that was actually happening. We did do a full soak clean as well.