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94' 750 katana idles @ 5,000 RPM unless you shake it

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  • 94' 750 katana idles @ 5,000 RPM unless you shake it

    Hey guys,

    I picked up a 94' Suzuki Katana 750. The guy i bought it from said it may have a sticky choke. Im trying to get an idea of what is going on with it, so i can figure out how and what to do.

    When you start her up the revs shoot up to 5,000 rpm and stays there. If you shake the bike left and right the revs go down to about 1700-2000 rpms but then goes back up to the 5,000 again.

    If you hit the throttle, the bike wont rev up all the way... It will go up a couple thousand rpms and then want to die out/ stall out.

    I also noticed after thinking about what the gentleman told me about the sticky choke. the choke lever has no effect through any of this. The choke spring above the carborator looks like its bunched up as well but i cant get to it without taking the gas tank off.

    Someone told me the floats maybe sticking in the carb... The parts guy at the local shop said i may have to just replace the choke cable.

    Anyone have any experience with this?

    Thanks,

    joe cerillo

    I dont know if this helps but heres a video

    [ame]http://youtu.be/bvlg_Rt52CQ[/ame]
    Last edited by Jcerillo70; 06-15-2013, 10:20 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  • #2
    Thinking of why the speed changes when you shake the bike, how low is the fuel level in the tank?

    As to the choke, It could easily be sticking, and giving it throttle may be flooding it out. If the choke spring looks bunched up it would be pulled all the way out making it run very rich and run at a high idle. I just replaced the choke cable in the 93 Kat I am working on, cost me about $30 at the local stealership. However, if your choke lever moves through the range, and it is moving the cable inside it, it SHOULD be moving the choke, you should be able to look and see the bar that operates the choke move when you move the lever at the handlebars.
    Life is what happens while your planning everything else!!

    Current rides
    1993 Suzuki Katana 600
    1981 Yamaha XS1100 Special

    Comment


    • #3
      I think you need to pop off the tank & clean the carbs and set them up
      with a bench sync and then sync when bikes running . Check all linkages
      throttle, and choke for anything sticking or binding.

      Comment


      • #4
        You can reach into the left side fairing and pull/push the choke slide rail in and out with your hand.

        If the choke cable broke when they pulled it open, it may be simply that it's still open and you can just push the choke rail closed. If it won't move when you reach in there, then remove the cable from the carbs and try again. If it still won't move, then you need to tear apart the carbs and clean the choke plungers on each carb.

        If you can move it with no problem, then you need a new cable.

        If you can move it with no problem only after removing the cable... then you need a new cable.

        Krey
        93 750 Kat



        Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

        "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by dgxser View Post
          Thinking of why the speed changes when you shake the bike, how low is the fuel level in the tank?

          As to the choke, It could easily be sticking, and giving it throttle may be flooding it out. If the choke spring looks bunched up it would be pulled all the way out making it run very rich and run at a high idle. I just replaced the choke cable in the 93 Kat I am working on, cost me about $30 at the local stealership. However, if your choke lever moves through the range, and it is moving the cable inside it, it SHOULD be moving the choke, you should be able to look and see the bar that operates the choke move when you move the lever at the handlebars.
          It doesnt move when you move the choke lever back and forth. Fuel is a 1/4 tank.

          If it is that spring thats bunched up i need to find a way to un compress it without taking the fuel tank off.

          It is so compressed that it is bowing out to the front wheel of the bike. The only thing that throws me off is when you shake the bike it fixes the high idle for a few seconds making me think maybe its a float that s stuck. however there is no movement in that choke spring. So therefore im lost haha

          Originally posted by Kreylyn View Post
          You can reach into the left side fairing and pull/push the choke slide rail in and out with your hand.

          If the choke cable broke when they pulled it open, it may be simply that it's still open and you can just push the choke rail closed. If it won't move when you reach in there, then remove the cable from the carbs and try again. If it still won't move, then you need to tear apart the carbs and clean the choke plungers on each carb.

          If you can move it with no problem, then you need a new cable.

          If you can move it with no problem only after removing the cable... then you need a new cable.

          Krey
          I never did this before so i will assume the choke cable it the one coming in from the front that inserts between carb head #2 & #3 ?
          Last edited by Jcerillo70; 06-16-2013, 07:29 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Jcerillo70 View Post
            It doesnt move when you move the choke lever back and forth. Fuel is a 1/4 tank.

            If it is that spring thats bunched up i need to find a way to un compress it without taking the fuel tank off.

            It is so compressed that it is bowing out to the front wheel of the bike. The only thing that throws me off is when you shake the bike it fixes the high idle for a few seconds making me think maybe its a float that s stuck. however there is no movement in that choke spring. So therefore im lost haha



            I never did this before so i will assume the choke cable it the one coming in from the front that inserts between carb head #2 & #3 ?
            That sounds like your describing the throttle cable.


            Here, check this post out with pics. It's not exactly your bike carbs, but the info is very close.

            An area to ask questions and share answers on specific projects. New how to's should be started here. No offtopic posts!


            The close up of the choke rail (second pic) is what your looking for when you reach into the side as I mentioned prior.

            The top pic, the far left cable is the choke cable. It bends 45 degrees, and pulls the choke slide left/right. It's not threaded, has no bolt on it. To remove it, you pull it off where it's seated, slide the cable out of the guide, and then turn the end pivot so the cable/end will slide out of the catch holding it.

            Krey
            93 750 Kat



            Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

            "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Jcerillo70 View Post
              It is so compressed that it is bowing out to the front wheel of the bike.
              This would indicate the choke lever or the choke plungers are stuck. When the choke cable pulls the choke, the spring stays in line. For it to bow out, the cable would be moving trying to let the choke plungers go back in, but the rail is not moving, so the cable bows.

              Originally posted by Jcerillo70 View Post
              I never did this before so i will assume the choke cable it the one coming in from the front that inserts between carb head #2 & #3 ?
              As Keylyn pointed out, that would be the throttle cable. Which does not have a spring on it.

              As to why it changes for that brief second when you shake it, I could only guess your sloshing the fuel in the float bowls enough that the jets are leaning out briefly.

              If you figure out the choke lever or the choke plungers are sticking, it would be a really good idea to pull the carbs and just go completely through them for a thorough cleaning. I have found that soaking the carbs in a 50-50 mix of Pinesol (no generic substitute) and water will get everything loose in there, and its safe on the butterfly seals. Then you can rinse them off and use compressed air to blow out all the little ports.
              Last edited by dgxser; 06-16-2013, 09:16 AM.
              Life is what happens while your planning everything else!!

              Current rides
              1993 Suzuki Katana 600
              1981 Yamaha XS1100 Special

              Comment


              • #8
                I also need a new battery. I see the oem size is

                LENGTH - 5 5/16

                WIDTH - 3 9/16

                HEIGHT - 5 3/4

                -----

                autozone has one for only $54 that says its an exact fit. however the size is

                Cold Cranking Amps: 190 A
                Cranking Amps: 210 A
                Deep Cycle/Starting: Starting
                Height: 6.54 in
                Length: 5.28 in


                Will it work still?

                Comment


                • #9
                  I just bought a battery at Meijer. It was not the orginal CB10L-B2 size, it wound up being a touch taller than original. The problem I ran into was the wire from the solenoid to the battery was a little short of reaching the top of the new battery. To overcome this issue, I removed the left side (looking at the solenoid) screw mounting the solenoid to the battery box, and loosened the other. This let me rotate the left side of the solenoid so the wire could reach the battery top. I then tightened the right side screw, and put the left side screw back in with the lower lip of the solenoid bracket pinched between the left side screw and the battery box.
                  Life is what happens while your planning everything else!!

                  Current rides
                  1993 Suzuki Katana 600
                  1981 Yamaha XS1100 Special

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    OEM Recommended Replacement:

                    Maint Free Yuasa YTX14AHL-BS

                    OR

                    OEM Original:
                    Yuasa YuMicron YB14L-B2

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Perhaps the throttle cable is sticking /misrouted as well . You ARE rocking it from the grips in the video . Disconneted the cables and see what happens ....
                      I am a fluffy lil cuddly lovable bunny , dammit !



                      Katrider's rally 2011 - md86

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