[XXWoodmanXX]

Oh wow.


Ok, well lastnight I pulled the carbs and did a complete tear-down and cleaning of them. Well, when I took them off, I couldn't help but notice that the intake boots had a pretty bad offset on the intake ports of the head. Scared that I had the wrong boots on the bike, I cross-referenced the part numbers, starting with #13110-17C0 on carb #1, right?

Bam! Sure enough,.....I have intake boots from a GSX-R on my bike. Ugh!!!! Well, looks like I gotta get boots now. Grrrrr!!! Anybody have a set they can part with?


EDIT: Tracking these part numbers, these also look to be the same boots for the pre-750's also.

[XXWoodmanXX]

Ok, well it seems as if I'm still a little lean on the low-end of the RPM range. Now my mid and hi end is really good. What do I need here? I dialed my A/F screws up to 2 turns from the stock 1.5 turn setting. Should I try and sync the carbs and see where that gets me, or should I go up in pilot jet size?

And if so, where should I go from the stock 32.5 size? 35? Higher?


Again, still getting a bit of stumbling from 1000 - 3000 rpm, and I plan on putting on my 4-to-1 V&H header and a shorty can muffler. FYI, I already have the 115 FP main jets.

I will be replacing my petcock here soon, so that will either fix my current issue, or help isolate it. *fingers crossed*

[Kreylyn]

Ok, well it seems as if I'm still a little lean on the low-end of the RPM range. Now my mid and hi end is really good. What do I need here? I dialed my A/F screws up to 2 turns from the stock 1.5 turn setting. Should I try and sync the carbs and see where that gets me, or should I go up in pilot jet size?

And if so, where should I go from the stock 32.5 size? 35? Higher?


Again, still getting a bit of stumbling from 1000 - 3000 rpm, and I plan on putting on my 4-to-1 V&H header and a shorty can muffler. FYI, I already have the 115 FP main jets.

I will be replacing my petcock here soon, so that will either fix my current issue, or help isolate it. *fingers crossed*

First, do 2.5 turns on the a/f screws and then go from there...

Krey

[Wild-Bill]

Set the A/F screws to 2.5 turns out.
The A/F screws affect the entire rpm range but their effect is most noticeable at lower rpms. Get them right first. Then you worry about the top end. That's the main jet. When you've got that right you worry about the needles and float heights.

[XXWoodmanXX]

Ok, So I am wrong in believing that Carbs 101 tell me to set them to 1.5 turns as the stock setting???

I will set to 2.5 and get back into the trenches again tomorrow. Thx!

[92xjunker]

1.5 is for stock setting. no, carbs 101 is not incorrect. It's just for oem setup

[Wild-Bill]

OEM is actually 1.75 turns out. It's definitely too lean. My theory is that that's what it took to get past the EPA. 2.5 turns is what works.

I've suggested in the past that the wiki article be changed but I got shot down. It just leads to a lot of confusion and poorly running bikes.

[mmittek]

One question about soaking in Berryman. When you disassemble your carbs to put the bodies into the solution, do you disassemble the butterflies too? I know that there are some rubber seals around it...

[Wild-Bill]

Leave the butterflies in. Those seals are felt, not rubber. Hit them with a little WD-40 after they dry out and they'll be good to go. They're lubricated with gas during normal operation. If it's a while between re-assembly and installation then hit them again just before you install.

[mmittek]

Ok, now one more...

In pre98 750F Katana, the pilot jets are plugged with those rubber caps (described in Carbs 101). Why is that?

I drilled out the metal caps hiding the A/F screws and after rebuild I am going to unscrew A/F to 2.5 turns. Would it make sense not to mount those rubber caps (covering the pilot jet) back?

[Wild-Bill]

The fuel flow to the pilot jets is metered through a side passage. The rubber plugs are there so that you have a way to get at the pilot jets for cleaning. You need them and they need to seal up that hole.

[mmittek]

Ok, here is another question.

So I rebuilt my carbs, setting the A/F screws to 2.5 turns out. I also adjusted the float heights to 14-15mm (as advised by manual, it was set to around 10-11mm when I opened my carbs). Won't this setting make my bike running very LEAN? What i the optimum for the stock? I have a stock exhaust and air filter.

[arsenic]

The optimum is 14.6 +/- 1mm. Like a manual says.

[mmittek]

The optimum is 14.6 +/- 1mm. Like a manual says.

Ok, but manual also says that the A/F screws are optimally pre set (to around 1 5/8?). Forum members usually advise 2.5 turns out, which is different than in manual. Won't changing one setting (A/F) affect others (float heights)?

[arsenic]

Ok, but manual also says that the A/F screws are optimally pre set (to around 1 5/8?). Forum members usually advise 2.5 turns out, which is different than in manual. Won't changing one setting (A/F) affect others (float heights)?

No, it does not say the are "optimally" pre set. It says they are pre set, period. No, changing the A/F screw setting won't affect the float heights.