Motion pro pilot tool

[edromero]

I've got to make it a touch richer... But so tired of disassembling. I recently found the motion pro tool, but I could use some advice.

I called motion pro for some tips on adjusting the AF screw. I wanted to know how you can really tell that you're seated in the slot with that tool. He told me to start from zero (so turn it all the way back in and then out again).

Do you guys have any other tips on how to make this go smoothly? Any tricks on how to tell if you're on target with those screws? Thanks

[sonosam]

I think the common response to this is disassemble and do it that way. I have no tips, but am interested to see if someone does.

[arsenic]

Do you guys have any other tips on how to make this go smoothly? Any tricks on how to tell if you're on target with those screws? Thanks

My only tip is to not use that piece of shit tool. It sucks large farm animals.

[curseboy]

My only tip is to not use that piece of shit tool. It sucks large farm animals.

I agree for the following reasons:

you don't get good engagement on a bike with plenty of access space (like a dirt bike) much less on a kat

it "skips" when you encounter a tiny bit of resistance from the screw

you won't know exactly how far you turned. The feel is just not there.


Take the carbs off and do off the bike. Or even on the bike, but with carbs dismounted. It's pretty imposible with any of those angled screwdrivers.

[mammut89]

spend the same money on a carbtune sync tool instead I assume you havent synced your carbs

[steves]

It'll only be useful if you have access to something like a colortune, or a dyno.

[arsenic]

spend the same money on a carbtune sync tool instead I assume you havent synced your carbs

No, he did, twice. With a set of vacuum gauges. That is the worst way to sync carbs in the history of forever. I'm still inclined to question weather it's actually correct or not. Simply because what I sent him the carbs, the A/F screws were at 2.5 turns out. He said he gave them another 1/4 of a turn. Now he wants to go even richer? I've NEVER gone further than 2.5 turns out, except with an Ivan's kit. 1/4 of turn makes a big difference.

[hardlydangerous]

My only tip is to not use that piece of shit tool. It sucks large farm animals.

and the small ones to

[edromero]

No, he did, twice. With a set of vacuum gauges. That is the worst way to sync carbs in the history of forever. I'm still inclined to question weather it's actually correct or not. Simply because what I sent him the carbs, the A/F screws were at 2.5 turns out. He said he gave them another 1/4 of a turn. Now he wants to go even richer? I've NEVER gone further than 2.5 turns out, except with an Ivan's kit. 1/4 of turn makes a big difference.

The difference is night and day after the synch for sure. But after some riding today, it seemed to feel hesitant, and did not start up as quickly as it once did.

It's almost like it didn't want to go up in Rpms, and above 6500, it seemed to really start surging and skipping.

Unlike previously, I smelled no fuel, and it seemed to ride rough. I don't know how to describe it...like dry humping kind of if that makes any sense.

I'm only guessing that its lean, I could be wrong. And it's possible that I wasn't as diligent tightening all the clamps this time on reassembly

[arsenic]

I'm only guessing that its lean, I could be wrong.

I second the "I could be wrong" part.

[edromero]

I second the "I could be wrong" part.

well, any other suggestions besides "vac gauges suck"?

AND

once all the gauges are showing equal, and it appears that they are as close as theyre gonna get... what else can i do?

[steves]

The vac gauges are the least reliable way to balance carbs. The preferred method is the carb tune from Morgan in the UK. If it's just a slight issue, I'd leave well enough alone.

[arsenic]

well, any other suggestions besides "vac gauges suck"?

Sure vacuum gauges REALLY suck.