Stuck Bolt

[mykat]

So I started unbolting my valve cover for a valve adjustment, and one of the bolts holding the oil lines to the valve cover is stuck.

I managed to completely round the allen head, and I've used a bit of PB Blaster and vice grips but I've had no luck, the vice grips can't really get a good bite as it's a tight space. I started drilling a hole for an extractor, but it's slow work drilling into the hard steel.

I'm considering heating the aluminum around the bolt and trying the wax trick. Can I screw anything up with a little bit of heat?

[Mojoe]

a little heat shouldn't hurt anything. try heating, then dowsing it with cold water, then heat again. that sometimes works if heat alone doesn't.

might be a good time to purchase an impact driver. it's a small investment and can go a long way in preventing these kinds of problems.

[diavolo]

While PB Blaster is a decent penetrant, the best is a homemade brew of 1/2 ATF and 1/2 Acetone (lacquer thinner will work in a pinch). I would use a propane torch, which will expand the aluminum faster than the bolt, which should be enough to "free" the bolt to enable you to remove it. Just make sure you either have an extra pair of hands, or everything at the ready once the cover is heated - you don't want to go hunting for pliers, as the part is cooling. Good luck

[Wild-Bill]

Try using a torx bit to grab the inside of the allen-head recess. Sometimes they'll bite just well enough to break things free.

[mammut89]

id use heat as the very last resort because of the rubber gasket

[Kreylyn]

id use heat as the very last resort because of the rubber gasket

Yeah... this +1

Get a drill bit aprox 6mm in size (or closest standard size to that) and drill slowly into the hex head. Once the head pops off, remove the oil line. You will find that there will be a remainder of threaded stud sticking up that will probably turn out so easy you could do it by hand.

99% of the time with these it's the pressure and oxidization on the head that has caused them to stick. Once that is removed, the rest will screw out easily.

You can easily find a replacement at most hardware stores. Ace and Lowes both have 6mm socket head screws that will work.

Krey

[steves]

I would just use a dremel tool with a cutting wheel to cut a slot on the bolt head, then tap it out with a hammer and a screw driver.

[arsenic]

I would just use a dremel tool with a cutting wheel to cut a slot on the bolt head, then tap it out with a hammer and a screw driver.

Steve gets the common sense award today.

[mykat]

As always thanks for all the replies.

Unfortunately I don't have a dremel (or a ride for a few days).

Torx won't fit, T30 is too small, T35 is way too big.

I was desperate enough to spend a couple hours with a hacksaw cutting a slot in the head, but the cut came in at an angle, so I can't get a good bite with a screwdriver. It just gets forced out.

I will soak it in ATF+Acetone over night (primer black should be easy to repaint ) and see if I can't use the slot to hammer it out in the morning. If that fails, I'm going to try to remove the oil lines where they run into the oil pan and take the cover off with them. That way I might be able to introduce just a little play and possibly free the bolt that way.

If not, I'll probably take Krey's advice and just drill into the bolt, although my brand new crapsman bits don't seem to be biting into the steel so well.

[Wild-Bill]

Do you have an impact driver to use once you get that slot cut? They're like $10 at Harbor Freight (slightly more at Auto Zone) and worth ten times that.

[dano68]

Yeah... this +1

Get a drill bit aprox 6mm in size (or closest standard size to that) and drill slowly into the hex head. Once the head pops off, remove the oil line. You will find that there will be a remainder of threaded stud sticking up that will probably turn out so easy you could do it by hand.

99% of the time with these it's the pressure and oxidization on the head that has caused them to stick. Once that is removed, the rest will screw out easily.

You can easily find a replacement at most hardware stores. Ace and Lowes both have 6mm socket head screws that will work.

Krey

^^^This if you don't have a dremel would have saved some time with a good drill bit. Trick is go slow with the drill

[mykat]

Do you have an impact driver to use once you get that slot cut? They're like $10 at Harbor Freight (slightly more at Auto Zone) and worth ten times that.

Ordered one, should be here in a few days. Meantime hopefully I can get it off today.

[steves]

Do you have an impact driver to use once you get that slot cut? They're like $10 at Harbor Freight (slightly more at Auto Zone) and worth ten times that.

Er, the hammer and screwdriver IS an impact driver....

[Wild-Bill]

Er, the hammer and screwdriver IS an impact driver....

...a very clumsy one. I've also had issues in the past trying to drift a screw out. The head of the screw came apart.

[steves]

I'm not sure how the impact driver would be able to help after you've cut a slot, unless your impact driver has a super sized flat head blade