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Dynatek Coils and Dyna 2000 Ignition Help?

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  • Dynatek Coils and Dyna 2000 Ignition Help?

    Does anyone have the Dynatek DC1-1 coils on your bike, correct? If so, can I ask you how you have the leads connected the coils? Ive got them hooked up but it seems like its firing rougher than with the OEM coils. Does it make a difference which post the 'orange/white' leads go into vs which spark plug wires go to each sparkplug? The instructions I got with them didnt tell me much of anything on hooking them up to my particular bike... I am running a Kat 750 with the Dyna 2000 Ignition and Dynatek DC1-1 coils with suppression-core sparkplug wires.

    Any help is appreciated. Thanks
    "Oh Waiter... I think I'll have the Chocolate Soup for the Scizophrenic Soul..."

  • #2
    Critical that you have the left coil connected to plugs 1 and 4 and the right to 2 and 3. Doesn't matter which wire from each coil goes to which plug since it is a wasted spark ignition (ie you can swap leads to plugs 1 and 4 as long as they are both connected to the left coil - and assuming you have the white and orange wires connected to the correct coil).

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    • #3
      I have a Dyna 2000 in my 1100... you have to really pay attention to the timing when you install it... the Dyna 2000 has dual pickup triggers, if they are not timed correctly, they will give you a rough idle, more vibration, and less power...
      "Life is what happens when you make plans..."

      http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=119546

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      • #4
        Originally posted by TRPUT View Post
        Critical that you have the left coil connected to plugs 1 and 4 and the right to 2 and 3. Doesn't matter which wire from each coil goes to which plug since it is a wasted spark ignition (ie you can swap leads to plugs 1 and 4 as long as they are both connected to the left coil - and assuming you have the white and orange wires connected to the correct coil).
        When it comes to the orange-white power wires does it matter which post it goes into on each coil?
        "Oh Waiter... I think I'll have the Chocolate Soup for the Scizophrenic Soul..."

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        • #5
          It's been quite a while, but I'm pretty sure there is no polarity at the coils. I don't think it matters, but like I said, I'm not 100% sure.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by jumper69 View Post
            When it comes to the orange-white power wires does it matter which post it goes into on each coil?
            When I was having a few issues with my pre years ago, I tried swapping those wires and it made no difference - it ran just as bad. From memory, the white wire is the signal wire and the orange is the power supply. The signal wire just triggers the circuit and it doesn't seem to matter which position it's in. I'm not sure ... but there is the chance the coils might then try to draw their main current from the signal generator, which might not be a good thing long-term, so it's probably best to consult the wiring diagram and get them correct.



            Assuming I did the relay mod correctly, orange wire is at the top of the left coil and bottom of the right. Guess you need to figure if it matters for your Dyna coils???
            Last edited by TRPUT; 10-06-2012, 06:03 AM.

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            • #7
              The coils are a wasted spark coil = when triggered, both plugs spark.

              They do "technically" have a + and - marking on them. This is to designate that there is a primary and secondary coil inside. This is how the coils work...

              Power is supplied permanently via the orange/white stripped wires to one of the circuits in the coils. This creates an electrical field inside.

              Power is supplied via the black wire, or white wire to the other circuit in the coils. This also creates an electrical field.

              When the signal generator sends it's signal to the ICM unit (also called CDI by some) that is then adjusted by the ICM for the "curve" of the timing based upon RPMs, and then it triggers the apporpriate coil by cutting power to the black or white wire temporarily. The sudden drop of one field, causes the other one to collapse, and the voltage spike is grounded out the spark plugs (spark).

              OEM setup it does not matter which circuit collapses for the most part... both will cause a spark.

              It's very important that the power to the field that collapses be at least 11v though fyi... or the spark won't be strong enough and can cause start/running issues.

              I don't know on the aftermarket setup, but does it have the availability for 4 outputs, or only 2? If only 2 like the OEM ICM then one would think that it's pretty hard to get the timing wrong.

              If it has 4 outputs (the controle module wants to spark each plug seperately), then yeah... that's gonna be something that needs to be looked at very closely in how it's connected to the base 2 output system.

              Krey
              93 750 Kat



              Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

              "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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              • #8
                Maybe just a little clarification regarding the timing I spoke about earlier....

                OEM setup has a single pick-up/trigger

                Dayna 2000 has two separate ones, one for one set of coils.

                Both have to be timed, Once the primary is set, the engine has to be rotated 180 degrees and then the secondary pickup timing has to be set.

                Essentially you are setting the timing for each coil separately, if tis is not done correctly, you will have buzzing, high vibration, and rough idle.
                "Life is what happens when you make plans..."

                http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=119546

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Nut-Nut View Post
                  I have a Dyna 2000 in my 1100... you have to really pay attention to the timing when you install it... the Dyna 2000 has dual pickup triggers, if they are not timed correctly, they will give you a rough idle, more vibration, and less power...
                  Do you happen to know what the OEM timing is for the 2001 Kat 750? It is not listed in the manual since the stock ignition is static.
                  "Oh Waiter... I think I'll have the Chocolate Soup for the Scizophrenic Soul..."

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                  • #10
                    It should be in the Dyna2000 paperwork/Install guide you get with the kit...

                    From what I remmeber from doing my 1100, you set the engine to Top dead center and the Ignition Module to the "TEST" setting.

                    Mount the timing strip from the kit, you rotate the engine until you hit the 10 Degree mark before top dead center for the forward pickup. You then rotate the timing plate until the light lights on the igniton module. Once you do that, you lock the timing plate onto the engine. You just set the primary pickup timing.

                    Then you rotate the engine 180 degrees until the 10 degree mark again but now using the opposite mark on the advancer. You loosen the secondary pickup and move it on the timing plate until the light lights up again on the ignition module. then lock down the secondary pickup.

                    Change the setting on the Ignition Module to the desired powercurvev and remove the timing strip then reseal the side cover on the engine.

                    The 1100 called for 10 degrees before top dead center as a base timing, I am not sure of the 750 spec. Maybe you can contact Dyna directly and find out.
                    "Life is what happens when you make plans..."

                    http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=119546

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                    • #11
                      [QUOTE=TRPUT;2236214]When I was having a few issues with my pre years ago, I tried swapping those wires and it made no difference - it ran just as bad. From memory, the white wire is the signal wire and the orange is the power supply. The signal wire just triggers the circuit and it doesn't seem to matter which position it's in. I'm not sure ... but there is the chance the coils might then try to draw their main current from the signal generator, which might not be a good thing long-term, so it's probably best to consult the wiring diagram and get them correct.



                      Hey TRPUT... what exactly is the benefit (and possible downsides) to the Coil Relay mod like you have on your bike? I read thru the installation process in the Maintenance sticky, but havent been able to get a response as to WHY one would do this and what it accomplishes for the bike. (I am considering doing it if it is very beneficial to the bikes electrical performance). Help please?
                      "Oh Waiter... I think I'll have the Chocolate Soup for the Scizophrenic Soul..."

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                      • #12
                        The stock wiring harness in the Kat is really only just sufficient grade to do the job. And it's a bit like travelling from New York to Boston via Las Vegas. Add some heat and years and corrosion and the current-carrying capacity of the wires deteriorates. Less power at the input of the coils means significantly less spark - conversely, more power in equals significantly more power out. The coil relay mod simply by-passes the weak, convoluted and deteriorating power supply to the coils using up-graded wires running much more directly to the coils. It made a huge difference on my Pre, not so much on the Post, but expect easier starting and smoother running. You aren't going to see massive HP or economy gains - just a better running bike.

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                        • #13
                          Thanks!!! I really appreciate the explanation... Ill be doing this mod soon then.
                          "Oh Waiter... I think I'll have the Chocolate Soup for the Scizophrenic Soul..."

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                          • #14
                            It made a pretty big difference for my hard start, now it fires up really easy!
                            1995 Suzuki Katana 750 (Undergoing changes)
                            1982 Honda GL500 Silverwing(Sold)
                            Project Death Machine (Custom built reverse trike by me)

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