I was working on syncing my carbs and getting the old girl running right, then I realized header 4 wasn't hot. I have checked my compression before and the cylinders are running between 150 and 155. The bike had been sitting for 10 years or so, Thoughts? Quick and cheap stuff I can diagnose with?
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Originally posted by Samuraiace View PostI was working on syncing my carbs and getting the old girl running right, then I realized header 4 wasn't hot. I have checked my compression before and the cylinders are running between 150 and 155. The bike had been sitting for 10 years or so, Thoughts? Quick and cheap stuff I can diagnose with?
A bike sitting that long, it would be a good idea to go threw the carbs (dipping and rebuild kit) also get a flashlight and look inside the tank, crud and rust is going to cause issues.
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Well I have been going back and forth through the carbs, rebuild kit and full cleaning. The tank I fixed because of rust...had a half a tank of gas left in it for awhile
I just did a test on fuel and it sounds like I'm not getting enough, I changed the o-ring in my petcock (it was leaking when I first got it), but the tank doesn't give fuel even when flipped open between prime and reserve. You have to give the vacuum line some pressure to get anything. Is it supposed to be that way?
I got 155 on a cold night with only the cylinder I'm using's plug removed.
I'l check the spark tomorrow after work, wish me luck!Last edited by Samuraiace; 06-13-2012, 09:14 PM.
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Originally posted by Samuraiace View PostWell I have been going back and forth through the carbs, rebuild kit and full cleaning. The tank I fixed because of rust...had a half a tank of gas left in it for awhile
I just did a test on fuel and it sounds like I'm not getting enough, I changed the o-ring in my petcock (it was leaking when I first got it), but the tank doesn't give fuel even when flipped open between prime and reserve. You have to give the vacuum line some pressure to get anything. Is it supposed to be that way?
I got 155 on a cold night with only the cylinder I'm using's plug removed.
I'l check the spark tomorrow after work, wish me luck!90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.
Originally posted by BadfaerieI love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means pooOriginally posted by soulless kaosbut personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.
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Thats what I was wondering, when I replaced the leaky o-ring I may have crushed that little spring like thing inside the petcock. Would that screw it up?
When I did my sync I made even pressure through all four carbs, if that helps.Last edited by Samuraiace; 06-13-2012, 09:33 PM.
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A depressable tab/button on the top of the float valve that springs back when released.
-sorry float needleLast edited by Samuraiace; 06-14-2012, 11:58 PM.
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No, they are all like that. BUT, the early float (90-97 600 & 89-97 750)The float, float needle, and seat are 1 piece. The seat is the bottom part of the float. The actual float part with the tab on it, is on top and detachable. The 98-06 are a float, a float needle, and a brass seat with an o-ring on it. It's 3 separate parts.
Early floats:
98+ floats:
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