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Cold header????

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  • Cold header????

    I was working on syncing my carbs and getting the old girl running right, then I realized header 4 wasn't hot. I have checked my compression before and the cylinders are running between 150 and 155. The bike had been sitting for 10 years or so, Thoughts? Quick and cheap stuff I can diagnose with?

  • #2
    Spark and fuel is all thats left to check. I'll go out on a limb and say #4 carb is dirty.
    When all else fails get a bigger hammer

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    • #3
      I'll climb the other limb and say cylinder 4 isnt getting spark

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Samuraiace View Post
        I was working on syncing my carbs and getting the old girl running right, then I realized header 4 wasn't hot. I have checked my compression before and the cylinders are running between 150 and 155. The bike had been sitting for 10 years or so, Thoughts? Quick and cheap stuff I can diagnose with?
        155 is low, service limit is 170ish, however cold engine, battery charge level, not having all plugs removed, and holding open the throttle all the way while cranking during a compression test can give you a low reading.

        A bike sitting that long, it would be a good idea to go threw the carbs (dipping and rebuild kit) also get a flashlight and look inside the tank, crud and rust is going to cause issues.

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        • #5
          Well I have been going back and forth through the carbs, rebuild kit and full cleaning. The tank I fixed because of rust...had a half a tank of gas left in it for awhile

          I just did a test on fuel and it sounds like I'm not getting enough, I changed the o-ring in my petcock (it was leaking when I first got it), but the tank doesn't give fuel even when flipped open between prime and reserve. You have to give the vacuum line some pressure to get anything. Is it supposed to be that way?

          I got 155 on a cold night with only the cylinder I'm using's plug removed.
          I'l check the spark tomorrow after work, wish me luck!
          Last edited by Samuraiace; 06-13-2012, 09:14 PM.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Samuraiace View Post
            Well I have been going back and forth through the carbs, rebuild kit and full cleaning. The tank I fixed because of rust...had a half a tank of gas left in it for awhile

            I just did a test on fuel and it sounds like I'm not getting enough, I changed the o-ring in my petcock (it was leaking when I first got it), but the tank doesn't give fuel even when flipped open between prime and reserve. You have to give the vacuum line some pressure to get anything. Is it supposed to be that way?

            I got 155 on a cold night with only the cylinder I'm using's plug removed.
            I'l check the spark tomorrow after work, wish me luck!
            Prime should give fuel regardless, ON and RES are vacuum fed...so...
            90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.

            Originally posted by Badfaerie
            I love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means poo
            Originally posted by soulless kaos
            but personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.

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            • #7
              Thats what I was wondering, when I replaced the leaky o-ring I may have crushed that little spring like thing inside the petcock. Would that screw it up?
              When I did my sync I made even pressure through all four carbs, if that helps.
              Last edited by Samuraiace; 06-13-2012, 09:33 PM.

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              • #8
                Are 97 katana's supposed to have sprung float valves or is that just post 98's?

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                • #9
                  Specify what you mean by "sprung float valves".

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                  • #10
                    A depressable tab/button on the top of the float valve that springs back when released.

                    -sorry float needle
                    Last edited by Samuraiace; 06-14-2012, 11:58 PM.

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                    • #11
                      No, they are all like that. BUT, the early float (90-97 600 & 89-97 750)The float, float needle, and seat are 1 piece. The seat is the bottom part of the float. The actual float part with the tab on it, is on top and detachable. The 98-06 are a float, a float needle, and a brass seat with an o-ring on it. It's 3 separate parts.
                      Early floats:

                      98+ floats:

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                      • #12
                        Are you talking about the whole float assy and the way the float needle and float are attached?

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                        • #13
                          You lost me.

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                          • #14
                            hahaha....sorry just got what you were saying. My connection was bogging and just got the pics.

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