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Exhaust header stuck

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  • Exhaust header stuck

    This is the first thread I've started as up to now my questions have been answered by the stuff that's already on here.

    I have spent the last few weeks grinding off my VERY corroded header bolts (and will hopefully be removing them from the head once it's off) - the thing is, now that I've finally got the manifolds off (dremel and patience), I still can't get my exhaust off.

    This is the first bike I have serviced myself, but I am a willing learner, but wondered if anyone had any clever ideas for pulling the exhaust header off the head - I have a feeling it's been on there a very long time.

    Oh, by the way, I am simply trying to change the headgasket coz it sprung a leak last month. I've got my gasket and my o-rings and things and thought I'd save myself some money - but things are not going as the wonderful manual (thankyou for the download) would have me believe

  • #2
    Hammer and a pry bar. Use wood blocks over the engine fins to prevent damage.

    Use a hammer to tap on the headers and "vibrate" them loose. Use the pry bar to pull them out of the head.

    Shouldn't take much if the bolts are all out... or at the least, the bolt heads off.

    Krey
    93 750 Kat



    Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

    "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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    • #3
      Right, so I bought a crowbar (as we call them here in Blighty) and I am trying that, but I am getting no movement. I am not sure how much pressure I should be using, but I guess I will simply have to use "more" and see how it goes.

      Grrrrrr.

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      • #4
        If you've taken the bolts out of the head, or at least loosened them, try putting a jack under the header pipes and jacking up the bike.

        Also, stuff tends to come apart better when it is hot. So maybe let the bike idle for 5 minutes or so and then try getting it apart.

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        • #5
          When I had to remove my headers, I also ground off the bolt heads. Those buggers were stuck in there! I ended up warming up the bike, using a blowtorch, and finally resorting to the BFH, which I think finally broke enough rust/carbon loose for my to pry them off with the crowbar.
          Current Bike: 2005 SV1000S K5 Red, 7,xxx miles, Hot Bodies Double Bubble Tinted Screen, Hot Bodies Fender Eliminator, Pirelli Diablo Rossi's, LED Flush Mounts, Front/Side/Rear Sliders, PC-III USB, K&N Air Filter, aTRE Mod, TechSpec Tank Grips, Solo Seat Cowl, Corbin Seat, HEL SS Brake/Clutch Lines.

          Working on installing: TPS mod

          Anyone who loves their bike uses Rotella T6!

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          • #6
            I still haven't got the damn things off. I am hoping that the help of my brother, who is coming to help me on Saturday. BFH at the ready.

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            • #7
              while im here. how did you get the bolts off. mine are clearly worn and i assume verything in there is rusted out or correoded. i tried and extractor no luck. 12mm. alllen keys. everything and nothing... i have a nexhaust like im going to try to get welded but i kinda need it off first...

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              • #8
                Be sure the mufflers and collector are off the bike before trying to remove the header pipes. Once you've got the header bolts out the only thing holding the pipes to the head will be the gaskets and maybe some rust. If you've got studs in the head for the exhaust flanges (I've seen both studs/nuts and bolts) then you'll want to break the flanges loose from the studs after removing the nuts. Use a cut-off piece of a broomstick as a drift and tap it with a hammer to break loose anything that's rusted in place. Once all the flanges are loose you should be able to grab the header pipes down low (for some leverage) and break them loose from the gaskets.
                Wherever you go... There you are!

                17 Inch Wheel Conversion
                HID Projector Retrofit

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by DJ FroZone View Post
                  while im here. how did you get the bolts off. mine are clearly worn and i assume verything in there is rusted out or correoded. i tried and extractor no luck. 12mm. alllen keys. everything and nothing... i have a nexhaust like im going to try to get welded but i kinda need it off first...
                  I used a dremel and lots of patience.

                  Originally posted by Wild-Bill View Post
                  Be sure the mufflers and collector are off the bike before trying to remove the header pipes. Once you've got the header bolts out the only thing holding the pipes to the head will be the gaskets and maybe some rust. If you've got studs in the head for the exhaust flanges (I've seen both studs/nuts and bolts) then you'll want to break the flanges loose from the studs after removing the nuts. Use a cut-off piece of a broomstick as a drift and tap it with a hammer to break loose anything that's rusted in place. Once all the flanges are loose you should be able to grab the header pipes down low (for some leverage) and break them loose from the gaskets.
                  I am doing it your way, I just haven't quite got there yet, but tomorrow...
                  Last edited by Bigveg; 06-15-2012, 09:09 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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                  • #10
                    And I got them off!

                    A blowtorch, a bit of wood, a big hammer and a 24inch crowbar was all I needed.

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                    • #11
                      If I may suggest :

                      I had the fun of doing the job you have just accomplished last winter, having to fight with rusty bolts and all. Once the headers were off, I got to work on them with a wire brush in an electric drill to get them down to bare metal, then used VHT black to paint them (couple of coats).

                      I also ordered some stainless steel replacement bolts and made sure I put plenty of Copaslip on the threads when I put the nicely painted pipes back on the bike.

                      The VHT black ain't everyone's cup of tea I know and it can flake a little with time, however it's a fairly good preventative measure for later years....
                      My country is the world...... my religion is to do good.

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                      • #12
                        Even better than a wire wheel on a drill is an actual bench grinder with a wire wheel and a tool rest. A cheap ($35-$45) model works just fine and you're so much less likely to fling parts across the garage or feed a finger into the wheel that it's worth the money and space to store it.
                        Wherever you go... There you are!

                        17 Inch Wheel Conversion
                        HID Projector Retrofit

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