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Is Barnett the go to solution for new plates/springs?? The clutch on this machine is defineatly a first cousin to the CV carbs. I forced new fluid into the system...Bled,Bled and bled some more only to have a problem with 100% disengagement. The owner went out the other day and fried the plates according to him SO I'm searching for new. Are the metals a "for sure" replacement if I'm doing frictions and springs? Wild Bill or Kreylyn are you out there?
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The most conservative answer is to replace everything.
Everything I've read says that you can just sand the steels a bit to de-glaze them provided they're not warped. Based on my recent experience, you want to pay some attention to the slave cylinder. Take it apart and hone the cylinder with a brake piston hone from NAPA. That seems to have solved my problem (along with replacing everything else that was cooked).
When you put everything back together, use a vacuum pump or syringe to pull fresh fluid down from the master cylinder before you try pumping the clutch lever. That makes the bleeding go really quick.
I did the clutch bleeding and basic ops-check with the clutch cover off. That way I could see what the clutch was doing. Saved me from the pressure plate being on a little cock-eyed and meant I knew that the clutch was moving right before I sealed everything up. I was able to put the transmission in gear and turn the wheel by hand while I pulled and released the lever to make sure the clutch was releasing cleanly and then engaging solidly. -
Your clutch is like butter now? Any thoughts on the Barnett question??? Found frictions and springs for@ $ 135...Seem fair to you? Why woundn't the engineers have added a mechanical adjuster on the pushrod length to tweek out that last little bit need for full disengagement???Comment
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That's at least 3 questions.
1. My clutch is working very well now.
2. $135 isn't a bad price for Barnett. Nut-Nut has EBC springs and his clutch is working just fine and is a lot lighter pull at the lever than mine is with the Barnett kit. EBC costs less than Barnett, too.
3. A hydraulic clutch is self-adjusting. When the slave cylinder piston is moving properly the spring behind the piston keeps light pressure against the end of the push rod to remove any slack in the system. The difference is made up by retaining additional fluid from the reservoir. This is hijacked by air in the system. Air compresses, preventing full travel by the piston and so you get something less than full disengagement of the clutch.
My problem wasn't that the clutch wasn't disengaging completely when I pulled the lever. It was that the clutch wasn't fully engaging when I released the lever. (Caused by the SC piston hanging up in the cylinder.) The clutch was constantly slipping a little, generating heat and glazing the disks so they progressively slipped more and more. The more they slipped, the more heat built up and the more they slipped until they wouldn't transfer power to the transmission at all anymore.Comment
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