Tuning carbs

[Jarvo]

So the time has come to tune my carbs (88 600 stock air filter 4-1 straight through pipes cut down can with db killer)
they have:

pilot jets 32.5
main jets outer(137.5) inner(135)
needle clip set to stock but has 5 notches of adjustment
float hights at 14mm
fuel screws at 2.5 turns

Now she seems to be running fine (revs smooth all the way to redline)but has a high idle as she warms up,not real bad but around 2-3000 but this could be that i haven't done sync yet!i just bench synced them after i cleaned them.
Anyway i pulled the plugs and they are black and dry so that means she's running (rich) right? Now my question is should i move the needle clip up a notch and then fine tune with the a/f screws? or do i need to go up 1 size on the main jets for top end and drop the needle for mid range? and then will i still be rich on the idle-1200rpm range.Its all very confusing
Any help would be appreciated.

[Kreylyn]

So the time has come to tune my carbs (88 600 stock air filter 4-1 straight through pipes cut down can with db killer)
they have:

pilot jets 32.5
main jets outer(137.5) inner(135)
needle clip set to stock but has 5 notches of adjustment
float hights at 14mm
fuel screws at 2.5 turns

Now she seems to be running fine (revs smooth all the way to redline)but has a high idle as she warms up,not real bad but around 2-3000 but this could be that i haven't done sync yet!i just bench synced them after i cleaned them.
Anyway i pulled the plugs and they are black and dry so that means she's running (rich) right? Now my question is should i move the needle clip up a notch and then fine tune with the a/f screws? or do i need to go up 1 size on the main jets for top end and drop the needle for mid range? and then will i still be rich on the idle-1200rpm range.Its all very confusing
Any help would be appreciated.

Dry is lean.

A/f screws for idle adjustments.

Try 3 turns out.

Krey

[DClark]

For me, I picked the idle screw settings based on what happens when riding and I close the throttle. If idle drops below 800rpms then comes back up, it is too rich. If idle hangs before dropping down, it is too lean. Make sure bike is warmed up too. A bike set too rich will obviously run just dandy when cold, but then it will die at stops when warmed up.
Main jet- ignore the needle jet for now, pick the jet that gives most top, wot power, use your @SS as a dyno.
Once you settle on that, play with your needles. Too rich will, for lack of better words, have a soggy sounding engine. Too lean, well, you'll just have less mid power. You'll simply have to experiment., For needle and idle screw setting, I keep notes too.
Keep in mind that you'll never get it perfect, just a comprimise as your altitude, temperature and even gasoline can play a part in the great carb guessing game.
Once that is all done, give her a good synch.

[Jarvo]

Thanks guys some good advice you have given i feel more confident about fixing the problem now