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I need an opinion on valve shims

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  • I need an opinion on valve shims

    So I stripped my Katana down to the frame and I am rebuilding here with some TLC. I decided to check on the valve clearances because I am positive It has never been done. Surprisingly most of them were within tolerance according to the frame and service manual. Here is my question:

    92 Katana 600 (GSX600FN)

    The tappet clearance for the exhaust is 0.15-0.25 mm
    The exhaust valves on cylinder 1 are both <0.15, I could only get the 0.10 in there and not the 0.15. These need to be replaced with a shim 0.05 mm smaller if I did my math correctly?

    Secondly and more importantly. The right exhaust valve on #3 and the left valve on #4 are a REALLY REALLY snug 0.15. Meaning: to get that feeler gauge in there it takes... well... it reminds me a lot of my junior prom date. Should I replace these two as well?

    Here is the raw data:


    I don't mind replacing more shims but I would rather do less work than more. I decided to call upon the Katana gods before I go meddling.

    P.S. I have all of the tools and do know I need to check the tolerance afterwards regardless of my math skills. Any help would be appreciated.

  • #2

    -Steve


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    • #3
      I can size them just fine. I was just wondering if I SHOULD replace a few of them. The exhaust on 3 and 4 to be more precise.

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      • #4
        Rotate the engine again and re-measure if you aren't sure
        -Steve


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        • #5
          Originally posted by zach5045 View Post
          I can size them just fine. I was just wondering if I SHOULD replace a few of them. The exhaust on 3 and 4 to be more precise.
          You want the valves to be looser not tighter. I'd be looking at cylinder 1 because those are the tightest. And the intake on 3. The rest look fine to me.

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          • #6
            If you were me - and just be thankful you aren't! - I would be aiming to get them all even and mid-range or higher. 0.15 or 0.2 inlet and 0.20 or 0.25 exhaust. That should keep them all in spec for longer, and you might as well get it right while you're in there.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by 05RedKat600 View Post
              You want the valves to be looser not tighter. I'd be looking at cylinder 1 because those are the tightest. And the intake on 3. The rest look fine to me.
              What he said. Gotta love the shim adjusted valvetrains...I need to check mine soon...
              90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.

              Originally posted by Badfaerie
              I love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means poo
              Originally posted by soulless kaos
              but personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.

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              • #8
                From what I understand, proper use of a feeler gauge means you should be able to get it into the gap without too much effort, and there should be a slight tug as you pull it out. If you are cramming the gauge in there, chances are the actual gap is smaller than .15 and you should probably loosen it.

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