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High Idle after 10-15 minutes of running

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  • High Idle after 10-15 minutes of running

    Hey all, I've been out of touch with the KatRiders site for a while, just been busy with life in general. I know you guys are great at answering us noobs so here goes.

    I have a 99 Katana 600. I've had her about 2 and a half years now. I always have to play with the choke to get her started most days, unless it's nice and warm out. Originally I thought my issue could be tied to this.

    I can start her just fine and she idles with the choke closed or partially closed, at or about the normal 1300. once i open the choke for normal running she runs and idles right near and between 1100-1300. The problem now is that after I ride in any temp weather for say 10-15 minutes, when i hit a stopping point the idle RPM's are over 2500.

    This does not always happen, but usually does. It only started happening in the last couple weeks. Prior to that on hot days, i noticed it would sometimes hit an idle of about 2k after it was running for a bit. Now that it's climbed higher, I'm worried about damaging the engine or some other component of the bike.

    I have NOT cleaned the carbs other than using the fuel additive carb cleaner at the tail end of last season. I've done no maintenance in the last few hundred miles other than everyday maintenance. The issue does not matter if the handles bars are moved in normal operating conditions (one friend thought it was snagging my throttle cable).

    All my buddies who's experience is questionable on maintenance say it's a clogged carb. My dad, who lives in another sate but was told whtat it's doing and has a great deal of mechanic experience thinks its something with the throttle sticking after the engine warms up. he said maybe some water got in somewhere and caused some rust dealing with the throttle. apparently rusted materials swell more when heated than non rusted materials. Reading all the other posts about similar problems are anything from dirty pilot circuitry, to carbs, to float needles or syncing the carbs.

    I am totally for you guys to say, "Yes, try cleaning them and then synching them, like in the carbs 101 post." I just want to get some more experienced mechanic/rider input here. So what do you guys think? I can give you more info if you need it, just ask and I will do my best to get it to you.
    ~~~
    Wraith
    1999 Suzuki Katana GSX600F

  • #2
    Actually, you need carbs 102. Go to "Katana Wiki", search carbs 102 and download the PDF.

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    • #3
      2 things to check..

      First: Lean running due to partially dirty carbs can cause problems with the idle hanging. I don't think this is the only issue, but could be partially contributing... it's always a good idea to check. The reason I don't think it's the main issue is that the bike runs cold, and the idle creeps up as it gets hot. This leads me to think more of next issue...

      Second: vacuum/air leaks. If your bike is seems fine cold, but when the engine warms up your starting to run "lean" then it's probably a vacuum/air leak somwhere that is effected by engine heat. I would check for that first... even before cleaning the carbs.

      Krey
      93 750 Kat



      Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

      "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Wraith81
        Thanks for the clarification Arsenic!

        Krey, I actually remember my pops mentioning something about spraying areas of the engine with WD-40 after its warmed up and running to check for vacuum leak, or cracks somewhere so I understand what you're saying. Any clarifying thoughts on how best to look for the vacuum/air leaks? Could it be related to a hose not sealed/capped right? I'm just throwing that out there since i saw another post about the air-box hose being open rather than capped.

        Yes, all those spots need to be checked.

        I personally would use starter fluid instead of the wd40... small directed burts... wait a moment between each. Check every spot rubber touches metal or plastic. Start at the engine boots connected to the engine, work your way back. If you find a spot, note it... but keep looking as well. Could be multiple locations are causing the issue. Fix them all.

        Krey
        93 750 Kat



        Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

        "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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