[HarrysKat]

So I finally pulled the carbs & replaced the missing plug. I also checked all the jets. The mains are 130 and the idles are 32.5 I think the mains are too rich possibly, but I am not sure. Thoughts?

I have the same setup on an 89 kat 750.. k&n, jet kit, vance an hines 4-1.. Alot of guys are gonna tell you it cant be tuned with the k&n, but theres also alot of guys on here who have. Listen to them. Its harder, takes more time, but it can be done. My pilots are the same as yours, i tried to go up, didnt work, leave it there if its idling and running good at low speed. Needle jet i have at the top clip,leanest position, midrange is fine as well, i have 130 mains, i CANT GET full throttle. DEFINITELY lower the mains.. Thats my next step, there on order, im going with 120's.
As for the stopping and not being able to start again? I had the same exact problem, ride around for a length of time, stop for a smoke and it wont start again. Could be your floats,o rings, needle valve, buts its most likely your petcock diaghram. That fixed it for me.
Also, when your tuning carbs, make sure the valves clearances are done first, seem to remember one of the instructors beating it into our heads that u cant tune a carb until the valves are right. Good luck, take it slow, dont overlook the simple.

[Kreylyn]

So I finally pulled the carbs & replaced the missing plug. I also checked all the jets. The mains are 130 and the idles are 32.5 I think the mains are too rich possibly, but I am not sure. Thoughts?

The reason for the pods... you have a stage 3 jetkit installed.

My thoughts... revert down to a stage 1 kit, ditch the k&n for stock airbox and filter = nice running bike and no fouling issues that is significantly easier to tune for.

Krey

[rtuite]

I don't have any other parts right now, this is how I got the bike. It is not fouling anywhere near as bad since I got good gas in it. I am going to wait for my bearings and such (should be in tomorrow) and see how it goes. The problem is that it is rich. If it were the issue that everyone describes with the K&N filters, it would be lean. I understand that they are problematic, but if I were to put a stock airbox on now, it will make this worse. If I can't tweak it in, I will order the stage 1 kit & airbox. Or maybe start off with a set of 120 jets before dropping down to that.

New thought, I haven't checked to see if the needles are shimmed at all. If they are, I may be able to remove shims to lean it out a bit and see what happens...

[05RedKat600]

I don't have any other parts right now, this is how I got the bike. It is not fouling anywhere near as bad since I got good gas in it. I am going to wait for my bearings and such (should be in tomorrow) and see how it goes. The problem is that it is rich. If it were the issue that everyone describes with the K&N filters, it would be lean. I understand that they are problematic, but if I were to put a stock airbox on now, it will make this worse. If I can't tweak it in, I will order the stage 1 kit & airbox. Or maybe start off with a set of 120 jets before dropping down to that.

New thought, I haven't checked to see if the needles are shimmed at all. If they are, I may be able to remove shims to lean it out a bit and see what happens...

You have a stage 3 Dynojet kit, correct? It only runs lean with stock jetting. 130 mains are NOT stock, that's why you're rich. I believe 115 or 117.5 are stock. However, with your pods you need a stage 3 kit to tune it properly. Preferably a Factory Pro kit, because the Dynojet Stage 3's I hear are junk. Don't go stage 1 with pods. It will suck. You sure you aren't burning oil? That can cause carbon deposits as well, and foil your plugs.

[rtuite]

It only runs lean with stock jetting. 130 mains are NOT stock, that's why you're rich.

I agree. That is why I don't think it is the filters causing the problem. I am not sure about the brand of the jet "kit" because I think only the mains were changed. I haven't checked for shims yet.

Don't go stage 1 with pods. It will suck.

I was talking about getting something like a stage 2, which nobody seems to make.

You sure you aren't burning oil? That can cause carbon deposits as well, and foil your plugs.

That is another thing. My oil is OMG thin. I am changing it along with all the other stuff I am doing this time. I think it is pulling some oil up through the rings or the valve guide seals. But my fouling is dry. Just carbon, so I don't know if this is doing it.

[05RedKat600]

I agree. That is why I don't think it is the filters causing the problem. I am not sure about the brand of the jet "kit" because I think only the mains were changed. I haven't checked for shims yet.


I was talking about getting something like a stage 2, which nobody seems to make.


That is another thing. My oil is OMG thin. I am changing it along with all the other stuff I am doing this time. I think it is pulling some oil up through the rings or the valve guide seals. But my fouling is dry. Just carbon, so I don't know if this is doing it.

You didn't listen. For pods, you need a stage 3. Not stage 2, stage 3.

If you have the factory needles in your carbs, it is pointless to do anything else until you get a full stage 3 Kit, as you will chasing your tail. If the needles have more than 5 or 6 clip positions, they are aftermarket. One clip position is stock.

Does your oil smell like gas? If so, you may have other issues. Honestly, it sounds like you need to order a complete Stage 3 jet kit, or stock airbox with stage 1 jet kit. Then, you need to thoroughly clean and rebuild the carbs.

[rtuite]

Sorry, I misunderstood. I am pretty sure there is only one clip position. I will check that tonight and see. If they are, I will order the full jet kit. I already went through the carbs very throughly and cleaned everything.

The oil doesn't smell like gas at all, I just think it is just old and broken down. I should have changed it when I got the bike, but with dealing with everything else I just spaced it. It is getting changed tonight so I will see. I really just want this motor to get through the rest of the season. I have a GSX-R 1100 motor I am getting ready to build and swap in over the winter, so all I care about is getting this bike through the rest of the season.

[rtuite]

OK, here is an update. I do, in fact, have multiple clip positions on the needles. I lowered the needles by one clip and it is running much, much better. I also replaced the missing plug and it is more stable at idle (no surprise). It has re-started 5-6 times and no problems, though it was a little tough to get started this morning for my ride to work, but it finally started and ran fine.

Another question, has anyone here had experience with Vortex fuel caps? At one point, when my garage was dead quiet, that I heard an almost indistinguishable whining/whistling sound. I found it was the gas cap on the bike, I loosened it a bit and it stopped. Is it possible that this cap is causing pressure to build up in the tank and cause the bike to flood or vapor lock? I have been loosening it about 1/2 turn when I stop to be safe, but I don't know anything about these aftermarket caps.

Of course, one time that I stopped I forgot to tighten it and lost it. I know where I lost it, because I heard something hit the ground but I didn't know what. It was a bit dark so I didn't notice the missing cap until later. Is it worth going back to find it, buying a new one, or should I replace it with stock? I can probably get one today, there is a sport-bike shop that stocks them 1/2 mile from my office.

[rtuite]

Fixed!

Update: One week & 250 miles later, not one hiccup aside from not starting well on one cool morning. I have been riding a lot and had no problems, so I am going to call this one solved!

[Kreylyn]

Update: One week & 250 miles later, not one hiccup aside from not starting well on one cool morning. I have been riding a lot and had no problems, so I am going to call this one solved!

Just a check for the cold start issues... Check your voltage at the battery (fully charged should be over 12.3 or your battery needs replaced) and then check the power at the coils with the key on. You should have over 10.5v at the coils (orange/white line wire is the one to check with the key on).

If your close or under 10.5v at the coils, that would be an issue with cold weather starts.

Krey