[jamesm113]

I screwed it in about halfway for these pictures. the idle adjuster screw's spring is fairly compressed already. If I screw it in all the way, it lightly touches the linkage, barely opening up the throttle plates

[arsenic]

That's not normal even a little bit. It should screw all the way up to the linkage rather easily.

[jamesm113]

Is there a way to adjust the linkage? Maybe I got stuck throttle plate or something. Could this be the cause of my problem?

[Sean Z Boy]

Well had it idling perfect till it warmed up I give up

I've rebuilt the carbs three times and done every adjustment known to suzuki and then some and still getting no results checked everything for any leak and nothing I'm half tempted to go back to VW's at least I can completely rebuild one of those with no issue

[jamesm113]

Are you supposed to remove the throttle plates before doing the chem-dip? The #1 carb's throttle assembly is very slow and doesn't move as freely as I remember it.

[Sean Z Boy]

I kept them in

[arsenic]

This post is turning into one epic fail after another. I'm going to excuse myself from this. Good luck.

[khatch]

having all the same issues on my 2001 750 Kat Carbs. It's killing me....

[Kreylyn]

having all the same issues on my 2001 750 Kat Carbs. It's killing me....

Yeah, but your in Asheville and I might know somenone who could help you with that locally...




Krey

[loudnlow7484]

Is this normal? The idle screw barely touches the throttle stopper-linkage thingy (sorry for the imprecise terms) when it's 100% in. I put my pinky in there to show how big the gap is. There are no throttle cables attached and I am not holding the throttle plates open - they are closed.

If the idle screw isn't touching the stop, that means that the carbs are stopped from rotating by a butterfly (or by damaged linkage, etc, but let's pretend that isn't a possibility for the moment). If the bike will still idle at that point, then it means that your sync is ungodly far off. Take a look at the backside of the carbs off of the bike, I would bet that 2 or 3 of the butterflies are slightly open, while at least one is dead balls closed against the carb body. Set them so they are roughly the same (and so the idle screw will touch the stop) and then give it another go.

[jamesm113]

If the idle screw isn't touching the stop, that means that the carbs are stopped from rotating by a butterfly (or by damaged linkage, etc, but let's pretend that isn't a possibility for the moment). If the bike will still idle at that point, then it means that your sync is ungodly far off. Take a look at the backside of the carbs off of the bike, I would bet that 2 or 3 of the butterflies are slightly open, while at least one is dead balls closed against the carb body. Set them so they are roughly the same (and so the idle screw will touch the stop) and then give it another go.

yup, that was what was what was going on. did a better job bench syncing them (using one of the jet holes as a guidance) and that lowered the stop a little closer to the idle screw.

I used a spray can of white lithium grease on throttle plate linkage of carb #1 (the one that was so sticky that my carbs no longer snapped closed when I released the throttle) and everything seems good there.

Now if I could just figure out how to set the idle to 1750RPM without the bike reving up to 2000 on its own. It's impossible to get it any higher than 1400RPM right now.

[khatch]

Yep,that's True Krey, what RU doing this Weekend ?

[Kreylyn]

Yep,that's True Krey, what RU doing this Weekend ?

PM me about Sat or Sun Eve (after 4). I'm riding to the dragon tomorrow (friday).

Krey

[jamesm113]

khatch/Krey-
Let us know what you find, please!

Thanks

[phantasm]

If it idles at 1400 on its own, sync at 1400. then adjust idle again and sync again. keep doing till you can get the 1750 mark