starting problem

[srep]

Okay I am very new to this I like got an account about a month ago read carbs 101 and then nothing more on the site.

Okay this maybe long I don't know... but here goes!

as it stands my bike wion't start.

I have a 96 600 kat with 18K on it.

I have done everything possible the bike will start on started fluid and run and once warmed up it idles great and really rips off once the bike is started and warmed up I can let go for 20 minutes or more and it will start right up again!

However if I go out the next day I hit the start button and it almost catches and wants to start but doesn't so spray starter fluid in and it starts! with choke on does everything just fine after start!

Here is what I did to the bike.

1. clean carb s about 10 times very very thourgh about it.
2. de rusted entire tank petcock and anything else rusty.
3. clenaed air filter and air box
4. replaced all gaskets inside the carbs.
5. I attempted doing a valve adjustment however I do not know how to adjust shims and they all seemed to be in specs.
6. did carb sync on the bike when finished deffinatly changed how it runs and idles and even starts

However it is really cold here of late but a well made bike should be able to start on it's own it is only 36 to 38 degrees not like below 32

I DO NOT UNDERSTAND!

I read that if you have to spray carb clean then it is too lean but then I heard it means it is too rich! I don't know please any help any at all or point me in the right direction!

My girlfriend wants her bike to be ready for spring and I have been working on it for about 4 months now and it is coming soon!

PLEASE LET ME KNOW YOUR THOUGHT!

[Devinjordan]

make sure the battery is fully charged and try putting the bike on prime for about 30 seconds prior to starting see if that helps

[rexazz2]

make sure the battery is fully charged and try putting the bike on prime for about 30 seconds prior to starting see if that helps

yep

IMO valves would need to be crazy bad to cause a problem

A fully charged battery not only helps the motor spin fast and draw fuel it also allows the coils to fully energize

Make sure the spark plugs are gapped within spec for a good spark as well

Are you using the choke on these cold starts ?

You could try battery boosting off a non running car , if it starts right up I would be looking for a new battery

[jcos]

My 93 600 does the same thing tried everything i can think of. If the motor is cold it will not start on its own. Ive cleaned the carbs, synched em, changed the battery, air filter, adjusted the valves. I dont get it. It has 25000 miles on it. Maybe time for a complete overhall.

[Kreylyn]

Read this thread... suggestions to resolve your issues.

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=114814

Krey

[Wild-Bill]

When you cleaned the carbs, where did you set your A/F screws? 2.5 turns out seems to work pretty well. Any less than that and the bike is running too lean and will have starting issues. If you're way too lean or a little lean with a weak battery then that'd explain your cold-start issues.

[srep]

Thank you so much everyone for your replies I have been trying to figure out this darn site for ever now just found my thread! lol

in any case I got it running I can start it everytime now! turns out I had the coils mixed up so it was firing off order and it for some reason was only firing on 3 cylinders. Happento find out that the pilot jet was clogged again! on the fourth carb so cleaned that out and cleaned out the carbs about 4 more times and now she starts up!

but in any case now I have a new issue lol

When the bike is running on choke it will warm up fine and idle fine however after about 20 minutes of riding the idle will just act like a dauche!
it will stay idling at about 3 to 4K rpm and if I adjust the idel screw back it will bring it down yet almost shut off.

My theory is I believe I have a vacuum leak... any help would be great and thank you so much again for the help you have given!

[montana.man]

did you take wild bills advice about the a/f screws. if not i would check it out, you might have too drill out the brass plugs that cover them, it helps. you might also have a vacuum leak check everywhere , i think i have the same problem

[srep]

well would it be bad to say I can't find the af screw there is no screw like it on her kat I can find it on the cbr but not on the kat and it seems like it would be something really hard to miss lol

ohhh I see the brass plugs that cover them ahhhh I think I know where they are now hey is there ever a possibility of a carbed bike not having an af screw?

actually I know it is annoying but would anyone have pics of where the a/f screw is and what caps it is i am looking for?

thank you so much it would be a great help!

[Wild-Bill]

Go to the wiki and search for carbs 101. download the pdf version (with pictures).

[srep]

Okay today I adjusted the A/F Screws and made sure everything was clean and when I started the bike today it seemed like when I sprayed carb cleaner around the intake boots, the revs seemed to take off. like it started out slow, like it took awhile for the fluid to get through but then they just started climbing, so I am getting new ones tomorrow and throwing it back together.

however it sounds like there is a rattling noise coming from the engine I don't know how a kat normally sounds but in my opinion it doesn't sound good however all cylinders are firing so I don't understand any input on that? oh and I checked the valve clearance it showed in specs also anything else I should check while I have it apart and before I put it back together?

[arsenic]

adjust the valves. If they are in spec, I have no idea what the knock would be.

[srep]

hey thanks a lot man mine are shims and I was told I would have to remove them and replace the ones out of spec with new ones however like I said when I check they seemed in spec... so I guess it is just how a kat runs.

Now I am still trying to figure out this vacuum leak I triedc turning the a/f screws 2.5 turns out and they seemed to just flood the plugs wouldn't start at all so then I took them off again and tried 2 1/3 turns and it seems to start right up after doing that however and it seems to idle fine but when choke is on it just rips off to 5k rpm so what do you guys think?

also I sprayed carb cleaner on the intake boots and it seemd like after about a second the rpms started to climb high again. so I heard that if you put some rtv sealant on the boots it will work and like I said it idles better but if i use throttle it revs up and takes too long to come back down...

Something I am going to try is syncing the carbs then seeing what that does hoever what do you guys think this dang thing is working on me I have been working on it none stop since october when I bought it so let me know what you guys think! Thanks a lot!

[Wild-Bill]

The hanging idle is a classic symptom of an air leak. I like to RTV the intake boots to the airbox and install the airbox to the carbs before I put them on the bike. Another source of the hard-to-find air leak is the o-rings between the manifold boots and the head. When I pulled the manifold boots off my head (use an impact driver to break the screws loose) the o-rings were so flat I thought they were just a raised portion of the boots!

[srep]

now when you say manifold boots is that the boot between the carbs and the engine or are those the intake boots because if they are the intake boots where are the manifold boots located lol I know I saw them probably about ten times at least I'm just not the best with names lol