early GSXR motor swap

[BareKat]

I'm planning on removing my hurt Kat engine and opening it up to see what is causing me grief.

Just in case I'm dealing with something severe on my engine I have to formulate a plan for the 2011 season.
Insurance will screw me if I go with anything larger than a 755cc in my 750 Kat so my options are limited to another 750 Kat or an early oil cooled gsxr 750 mill.

I know the earlier gsxr750 motors will bolt right in and was wondering if anyone knows if these early gixxers have the speedo pickup on the front sprocket like the post Kats or are they driven by the front wheel?

[Wolfe_UK]

Early GSXR 7/11s have the cable speedo drive

[Kreylyn]

I'd be suprised if the splins on the shaft were different, so your probably looking at it being a good possibility to swap parts off your engine to the early gsxr for the speedo sensor.

Not saying for certain not having done it, but... can't see it being that much different.

Krey

[BareKat]

Thanks guys... I'll keep ya informed of what I find.

[rexazz2]

If I was switching my 750 out for a B12 I dont think I would tell the insurance company

I think old oil cooled GSXR motors are tough to find with reasonable mileage

[loudnlow7484]

If you're going with an old GSXR750, then go with a 1990. The 1988-89 are essentially the same as the pre98 Katana engines, so you'd probably find it easier to find a Kat engine and swap the cams. The 91 models had shims, and didn't really improve anything over the 90, which has screw adjusters. The 85-87's don't make enough power to justify swapping one in. Honestly if you aren't going to overbore, then another 98+ kat 750 is probably capable of making as much or more power compared to any of the old GSXR750 units, and would be more reliable in the process.

[BareKat]

I have a preference for a low mileage post 750 kat if my motor is toast... a straight plug and play.

It took all of 40min to remove the plastics, gas tank, air filter and carbs.

Tomorrow I'll drain the oil and drop the engine... I just wanted to re-read the service manual before I pull the electrical plugs, drop the front sub-frame and drop the motor.

Is it easier to leave the oil cooler attached to the engine when I drop it or disconnect the lines at the cooler. (I don't want to disconnect the lines at the block cause there is a bit of road crude down there).

[rexazz2]

take some pictures for reference
there is usually never two plugs the same but routeing sometimes is very important

[loudnlow7484]

I have a preference for a low mileage post 750 kat if my motor is toast... a straight plug and play.

It took all of 40min to remove the plastics, gas tank, air filter and carbs.

Tomorrow I'll drain the oil and drop the engine... I just wanted to re-read the service manual before I pull the electrical plugs, drop the front sub-frame and drop the motor.

Is it easier to leave the oil cooler attached to the engine when I drop it or disconnect the lines at the cooler. (I don't want to disconnect the lines at the block cause there is a bit of road crude down there).

Then hunt down a nice post 750 engine and plop some halfway decent cams in it..... I would really like to take a post 750 engine and put in some good cams, maybe upgrade the valvetrain (stiffer springs, lighter retainers, etc), aftermarket ignition, maybe deck the head a bit...... I bet it would make quite a bit of power.

I like to disconnect the cooler at the oil pan, but if you don't want to do that then it probably doesn't make much difference either way..... you're still going to have those lines flopping about.

The electrical plugs are simple... they only go together one way. Don't forget the ground cable to the engine, and the cable to the starter.

Whenever I have dropped and installed engines, I've always just left the back two bolts in on the engine subframe, and swung the engine down onto something by hand. I still do pretty much the same process now, but now I've learned that using a lashing strap around the front engine subframe cross bar and around the frame bar directly above it really helps in lowering the front of the engine down smoothly (and also makes it much easier to lift it back into the frame again on install). It's much easier than trying to hold up the front of the engine with one hand while threading the bolts out with the other!

[BareKat]

Thanks for the tips guys... I'll be taking pictures as I proceed including opening the engine. I'm hoping I'll find something in the top end that's OBVIOUS so I don't have to go further.

This motor ran so good up until now!

I've got a few sources looking for a salvaged Kat... I'm hoping for a wreck that I can salvage some bonus parts.