idle jet??

[franky_402]

So im taking my parts to clean them because my idle has been jumping around and not wanting to stay set at 1200 it keeps dipping down to about 500 and sometimes stalls out. So i have attached the following picture with a red circle around what i believe to be the idle jet. Problem is i cant get any of them to unscrew, Im using an eyeglass repair kit with a flathead long and skinny enough to get in there but it will not turn for nothing. I really want to get this one clean hoping it will fix my idle. Also its not shown in the picture but i removed a rubber boot from that hole which i believe is supposed to be in there!! Help is greatly appreciated. Also while i was there i adjusted all the a/f screws to about 3 1/4 turns out this is correct....right. I havent had time to sync the carbs yet i still have to run to get all that stuff but hoping this solves it for now.

[MickM]

Hi;
I made my own jet remover.
The jets are made of brass, which is soft.
The brass fuses/sticks to the carb body.

The slots in them are parallel and square.
Normal screwdrivers are tapered.

Take a screwdrver with a big meaty handle, (you HAVE to press down hard).
Grind the end to the right diameter to fit down the hole.
Then grind the sides parallel so that they just barely fit, use the side of the stone, or a file.

From the side it should look like a rectangle, no taper.
If you have a spare jet or manage to get one out, then hold it up to the llight to check the fit.


Push down hard and and turn suddenly to break it loose.
You can try tapping down on the handle with a small hammer.


Mick M.

[franky_402]

so then i am right in that it is the idle jet that i am trying to remove, and ill see if i have anything that i can get those out with, unfortunetly i dont have a grinder or anything

[kevin2502000]

Yes that is the correct jet. As stated above finding the correct screwdriver is critical to getting them out. I have success with a good craftsman.

[franky_402]

alright I'm on the road now in search of a screwdriver that works wish me luck lol

[franky_402]

well i was looking around and seen that the A/F screw should be set to 1.75 turns out for a stock bike. The bike starts but when i rev it up it hangs, which means it is running lean correct. If so how is this possible its not turned that far out. I thought the farther out was more lean?? Before i adjusted them i counted them and they were about 3 turns out but none of them were the same exactly. Also the bike sounded like it was growling or vibrating hard i got scared and shut it off. i also visually synced the carbs together maybe im just tired and i thought it was making some wierd sounds i dont know. I modified one of my screwdrivers so i would be able to adjust the a/f screws when its running but if i understand correctly i had to let it warm up fully or was that to do a sync. so much info not enough time lol. If i am supposed to let it warm up, will it be ok if it is making noises?? i know its not the engine because it didnt make any noises prior to all my cleaning/adjustments. im thinking the a/f is off somewhat or the carb sync. Also the brass caps were already removed so im assuming that someone has adjusted the a/f before thought i would throw that out there.

[kevin2502000]

well i was looking around and seen that the A/F screw should be set to 1.75 turns out for a stock bike. The bike starts but when i rev it up it hangs, which means it is running lean correct. If so how is this possible its not turned that far out. I thought the farther out was more lean?? Before i adjusted them i counted them and they were about 3 turns out but none of them were the same exactly. Also the bike sounded like it was growling or vibrating hard i got scared and shut it off. i also visually synced the carbs together maybe im just tired and i thought it was making some wierd sounds i dont know. I modified one of my screwdrivers so i would be able to adjust the a/f screws when its running but if i understand correctly i had to let it warm up fully or was that to do a sync. so much info not enough time lol. If i am supposed to let it warm up, will it be ok if it is making noises?? i know its not the engine because it didnt make any noises prior to all my cleaning/adjustments. im thinking the a/f is off somewhat or the carb sync. Also the brass caps were already removed so im assuming that someone has adjusted the a/f before thought i would throw that out there.

The more you turn out the more fuel you get. Try 2.5 for all 4 of them.

[bob393]

I'm actually having a similar problem right now. I drilled out the brass plugs for the F/A screws and they were set at 1 1/2 1nd #2 was set at 1 3/4. I set them all at 1 1/2 when I put it back together and it was popping and crackling out of #1 so I shut it off. It had the run away idle and everything so I assumed air leak. 2 1/2 turns out is the general consis of this group which confuses me because the original setting under the plugs was 1 1/2 so I put it back together at 2. My floats are on the money and the only o ring I was worried about leaking was the one at the top of the plastic piece that the emission tubes fit into and the slides slide agenst but they were fine. It's back together but I haven't tried it yet, just got to late last night.

[franky_402]

I'll try the 2 1/2 turns out when I get home looks like I had the directions backwards

[Kreylyn]

I'm actually having a similar problem right now. I drilled out the brass plugs for the F/A screws and they were set at 1 1/2 1nd #2 was set at 1 3/4. I set them all at 1 1/2 when I put it back together and it was popping and crackling out of #1 so I shut it off. It had the run away idle and everything so I assumed air leak. 2 1/2 turns out is the general consis of this group which confuses me because the original setting under the plugs was 1 1/2 so I put it back together at 2. My floats are on the money and the only o ring I was worried about leaking was the one at the top of the plastic piece that the emission tubes fit into and the slides slide agenst but they were fine. It's back together but I haven't tried it yet, just got to late last night.

When you drill out the plugs, it's very possible the drill bit just hits the scres and turns them in a bit. This is why commonly some people will find theirs at odd settings like 1/2 turn on one, 1.25 on another, etc...

factory settings are 1 3/4 turns stock aprox. For the fuel blends used today, that is lean. 2.5 after hundreds of differnt carbs being done has worked very well as the median setting to start with.

Every set should be fine tuned from there, for each individual carb.

Krey

[franky_402]

ok so i took the carbs off yet again, set the a/f screws out to 2.5 out. Now she fires up and only needs to be on choke for about 30 seconds and she will run on its own. The idle is still jumping somewhat but no where extreme like it was every 30 seconds or so it will idle up a few hundred and then drop back down to where it was set. i still have to make my final adjustments for the a/f and the carb sync but need to know exactly which one needs to be done first for accurate results. Also does the bike need to be fully warmed up to sync the carbs, i know to adjust the a/f it has to be but wondering on the other part. Thanks guys for all your help

[cleankat96]

Yep fully warm it up but make sure to put a good fan in front of the bike while synching so you dont overheat

[Kreylyn]

A fluxuating idle like that is normally caused by a vacuum leak somewhere instead of a setting issue.

A leak will lean things out, and the RPMs will pick up to get more fuel. An increase of vacuum results, pulling more fuel, so then the motor has enough for normal idle... and the rpms drop again. Then the vacuum drops as well, leaning it back out... and it cycles like that over and over and over.

Krey

[franky_402]

A fluxuating idle like that is normally caused by a vacuum leak somewhere instead of a setting issue.

A leak will lean things out, and the RPMs will pick up to get more fuel. An increase of vacuum results, pulling more fuel, so then the motor has enough for normal idle... and the rpms drop again. Then the vacuum drops as well, leaning it back out... and it cycles like that over and over and over.

Krey

Ill have to check and see what could be causing a vacuum leak. I just replaced all the caps on top of the carbs the old ones were missing, or split in half. Also last night i put on the airbox tube, i had forgotten that it was plugged on the end so i didnt put it on thinking it just vented farther down which was causing some of my problems earlier to i bet. The vacuum line that goes between the carbs and the petcock seems new. The airbox boots are really tight and didnt show any signs of cracking, neither to the carb boots to the engine which i also made sure were really tight. Thats pretty much the vacuum i know about, any other lines that are notorious for leaks??