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Why won't the brake cylinder come off!!

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  • Why won't the brake cylinder come off!!

    I am trying to change the front brakes. They are so worn that I can see rust on the other side of the pads. I got the rear brake off and changed it. Man, that was different than a car. I can't seem to get the front calipers off to replace the pads. The bolts are on so tight or something. I am using compressed air to remove the two bolts on the front forks. They won't come off. I actually almost stripped the bolts. What am I doing wrong? Why won't they come off? Is there a way to change the pads without removing the calipers? Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    i know i like to use the old hammer impact,the kind you hit with a hammer, on old bolts and screws. you are using a six-point right?

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    • #3
      Originally posted by 74sd455 View Post
      i know i like to use the old hammer impact,the kind you hit with a hammer, on old bolts and screws. you are using a six-point right?
      good advice.
      never sleep with anyone crazier than yourself sigpic2011,2012,2013,2014,2015,2016

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      • #4
        I just covered it with penetrating oil and banged the sh#t out of it with a hammer. Then I used a manual ratchet and it made a squeaking noise. WTF? The other side is still not responding to the hammer and I'm out of penetrating oil. Banging away with hammer to get it out. Can I just replace one side on the front? (I know this sounds stupid, but I am so frustrated.) I just looked at the pad and it still has some pad left.

        Yes, I am using a 14mm socket. I have never seen a brake part on so tight.
        Last edited by newkatbie; 05-01-2010, 08:42 PM.

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        • #5
          not recommended
          never sleep with anyone crazier than yourself sigpic2011,2012,2013,2014,2015,2016

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          • #6
            How bad is replacing only one? The old still has enough left on it to ride for a while. The rear is new and the front left is new. The right one won't come out. will I be able to ride it for a couple days like that?

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            • #7
              The threads for those bolts are on the back, or wheel side. Use the penetrating oil back there as well, but try not to get it on the rotors. Tapping on them with a hammer can possibly help break them loose, but you don't want to mutilate the head of the bolts. You could also try heating up the calipers where the bolts are threaded.

              The hammer impact that the previous guy mentioned, it's an actual tool. Kind of looks like an oversized chisel on the end you hit with the hammer, the other end you put sockets on. The impact from the hammer gets transmitted to the bolt, and also through internals in the tool, adds a twisting motion to break the bolt or nut loose. You said you were using compressed air. Were you using an impact gun, or just an air ratchet?

              Since you're having this much trouble, I'd really suggest replacing the bolts after you get them out. Also, when putting things back together, use a torque wrench, and tighten to the torque specified in the manual.

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              • #8
                I was using an air ratchet. I am going to try the impact gun. If it doesn't come out, I will have to wait until Sunday. I will see if I can find something that can be hammer and torqued at the same time. I will have to replace the bolts. The other ones that I took out I cover in wd-40. It had no rust on it though.

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                • #9
                  If you try to use something like a box end wrench and a hammer, do lighter "taps" while putting pressure on the wrench, rather than hitting really hard. The vibrations should help work it loose, but you don't want to break anything.

                  Oh, and definitely try the impact gun first if you've got one. Worked like a champ on the axle nuts of my front wheel drive car. Probably wouldn't have gotten them off without it. I had to just sit there holding the gun on for about a minute before they started turning.
                  Last edited by ygolohcysp; 05-01-2010, 09:21 PM. Reason: Adding the second paragraph.

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                  • #10
                    Don't use the air impact, it will snap the bolt. Use a 3/8" ratchet and a piece of pipe over the handle to give you some leverage and I guarantee it will break loose. I have loosened 1 1/4 axel nuts on cars this way.
                    Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by kevin2502000 View Post
                      Don't use the air impact, it will snap the bolt. Use a 3/8" ratchet and a piece of pipe over the handle to give you some leverage and I guarantee it will break loose. I have loosened 1 1/4 axel nuts on cars this way.
                      You've got less of a chance of breaking it with an impact gun than a long breaker bar. Atleast with the impact it "jars" the bolt. This is a new tool I bought, I just posted about it.
                      Originally posted by arsenic
                      93 octane fuel and K&N pod filters rock.

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                      • #12
                        Thanks for all the suggestions. I got it off. I tried the air ratchet, but started to strip it. I was going to use the impact gun, but I found something better. I have seen too much damage caused by a hasty use of an impact gun. Then I found a two foot long ratchet. I didn't even know there was one of these here. I got really lucky and it took off the stripped nut. I could not believe how easy it was. The right tool for the job. The bolts were on too tight. Now I just have to sync the carbs and I got a perfect running kat.

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                        • #13
                          What a PItheA!
                          http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=110816

                          1994 GSX750F Katana with:

                          Michelin Pilot Road 2's, 120/70, 150/70,
                          Race Tech 1.0kg springs with 25mm preload,
                          R6 rear shock w/14.3kg Eibach spring,
                          1" Soupys bar risers, Zero Gravity windshield,
                          RK GXW Gold Chain, My own fender eliminator,
                          3BBB turn signal mirrors,
                          Black painted seat and rear trim,
                          Nelson-Rigg CL-135, CL-150, CL-950.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by HemiKat View Post
                            You've got less of a chance of breaking it with an impact gun than a long breaker bar. Atleast with the impact it "jars" the bolt. This is a new tool I bought, I just posted about it.



                            I disagree, that 6mm bolt will have it's head snapped off very easily with and impact, well my craftsman does anyway.

                            Originally posted by newkatbie View Post
                            Thanks for all the suggestions. I got it off. I tried the air ratchet, but started to strip it. I was going to use the impact gun, but I found something better. I have seen too much damage caused by a hasty use of an impact gun. Then I found a two foot long ratchet. I didn't even know there was one of these here. I got really lucky and it took off the stripped nut. I could not believe how easy it was. The right tool for the job. The bolts were on too tight. Now I just have to sync the carbs and I got a perfect running kat.

                            Leverage works wonders
                            Last edited by kevin2502000; 05-02-2010, 11:29 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
                            Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html

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