i dont know what the problem is. but ive had a 94 katana for a couple of months now. ever since i got it. at first it doesnt do it but if i ride for any extended period of time, when i go to stop, pull in on the clutch it idles up to about 3ooo rpms. if i put pressure on the front brakes and let off on the clutch a small bit the rpms will go back to normal unless i pull in the clutch all the way or put it in neutral, i dont know what the deal is.
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Check for a vaccum leak.Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html
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Or over heat....
Krey93 750 Kat
Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736
"I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"
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well i dont really know where to look,, it doesnt over heat. but i know its missing some lines. is there any thing online to look at to see where they missing lines go
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carb cleaning wouldnt hurt nuffin either.99% of the questions asked here can be answered by a 2 minute search in the service manual. Get a service manual, USE IT.
1990 Suzuki GSX750F Katana
'53 Ford F250 pickumuptruck
Lookin for a new Enduro project
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well i looked at another katana today.. but it wasnt all there,, it was at a salvage yard. and there were some hoes comeing offf of the carbs just couldnt tell where they go to that i do not have,, like i have two tees. one between the 1 and 2 carbs and 1 between the 3 and 4. there are no hoses on them,, im pretty sure that thats gonna be one of my problems,, can anyone help me to know where i need to run them too?
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sounds like one of few things:
Vacuum leak
float heights off
fuel valve sticking
o-rings messed up inside carbs or on sync tubes
sync caps missing
Boot/engine orings cracked.
A good cleaning and rebuild with new orings should probably fix it. or you can have a friend help you.
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Originally posted by nealy212 View Postwell i looked at another katana today.. but it wasnt all there,, it was at a salvage yard. and there were some hoes comeing offf of the carbs just couldnt tell where they go to that i do not have,, like i have two tees. one between the 1 and 2 carbs and 1 between the 3 and 4. there are no hoses on them,, im pretty sure that thats gonna be one of my problems,, can anyone help me to know where i need to run them too?
Those are just overflow hoses, no vacuum there. I don't have any hoses on mine, just flip them so they point down. BUT if your carbs ever overflow then it will dump the fuel onto the crankcase so it's up to you. That is not your vacuum leak source. Take pictures and post.Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html
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thats just it they were pointing up on two other katana motors that i have see today and you could tell that the hoses where conected to somthing bc they where spread out on the ends
and on a schematic i found online they are pointing up as well
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Originally posted by nealy212 View Postthats just it they were pointing up on two other katana motors that i have see today and you could tell that the hoses where conected to somthing bc they where spread out on the ends
and on a schematic i found online they are pointing up as wellMust read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html
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Originally posted by jamesm113 View Posti have the same problem, haven't figured it out:
http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=102144
Do you have a jet kit?Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html
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Both of you sound like you're running very lean and that the idle screw is turned waaaay in to get it to idle when it's cold, but then it idles way to high when it's warm.
Do the carbs 101 cleaning. Make sure your airbox is properly sealed. This will give you problems if it is not sealed. Go ahead and run some black silicone around the boots so you know they're good and sealed to the box. Assemble the airbox to the carbs and then put the whole thing on the bike. Make sure the airbox is good and seated on the carbs.
Then sync your carbs. It's easy enough to make a home made sync tool.
After that you should be good to go. If you turn your idle mix screws out an extra 1/4 - 1/2 of a turn it'll eat more fuel but it will also make the bike run much much better when it's cold.
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