Help! Screwed up my clutch adjustment

[elsueco]

Some days, you shouldn't try to do too much. Yesterday I tore into my bike for the first time. Replaced the air filter, brake pads, did brake flush, and lubed the throttle cable. Since I was already that far into tearing the bike apart, I decided to adjust the clutch cable as described in my Clymer.

Everything went fine until I loosened the locknut and tried adjusting the adjusting screw. I backed it out a few turns first, then it says to screw it in until "it begins to meet high resistance". When I backed the screw out, there was no resistance. After a few twists, I encountered very light resistance. After several more turns, I still only encountered the light resistance. I backed it out and tried again a few more times. I'm afraid that I screwed it in too much at one point.

Somehow during this, I managed to strip the locknut and wasn't able to get it off the adjusting screw by the time it got dark. I put the seat and tank back on and started the bike up to find that it won't go into gear (which didn't surprise me). Can someone help me out? I'm going to buy a new locknut tonight to replace the stripped one; hopefully the adjusting screw is ok. How do I fix this?

Neither the Clymer nor Haynes manuals mention exactly what the adjustment screw adjusts. I was thrown off by only meeting very light resistance as I was screwing it in; is that normal? I'll check around the forum later today for a clutch adjustment FAQ, but in the meantime, could someone explain what the adjusting screw does and if it's attached to the clutch cable?

Thanks in advance for the help!

[waffenampt]

To tell you the truth I dont mess with things until there broke. Do most of my clutch adjustment at the lever. Im understanding what you said about your adjusting screw, but im not familiar with the katana clutch adjustment yet. From other adjustments on hondas i have worked on I always remember to turn in the adjusting screw until tight then turn out 1.5 turns. Is this how the suzuki operates also? _____________I believe the adjusting screw operates the pushrod that goes to the pressure plate is this correct?

[elsueco]

"To tell you the truth I dont mess with things until there broke."

I'm with you on that one now!

I spoke with a friend who has some experience working on small engines. He thinks that I may have the clutch cable too tight. The adjustment screw does push on the clutch plates, I guess the light resistance is all that I was going to get.

I'll screw around with it some more tonight. Hopefully I can get the retaining nut off.

If anyone has any advice, I'd like to hear it!

[steves]

It adjusts a push rod on the back side of the clutch cover.

Try taking the clutch cover off and cleaning it real good.

[elsueco]

The adjustment screw isn't attached to the push rod? I pictured it as one piece.

How is cleaning the push rod going to help the tension?

Thanks for the info Steve.

[smokintalon]

You're not cleaning the pushrod, just the back side of the cover. It has a piece that pushes the pushrod in when the cable is pulled. It can get pretty nasty and not allow the clutch to move 100%. When this piece turns, it pushes in toward the clutch pushing the pushrod with it. The pushrod pushes another rod behind the clutch and it pushes against the pressure plate. (The clutch is on the right side of the bike and the adjuster on the left side)

If you ever have to remove the clutch cable, be very careful not to bend it or you WILL be replacing it!! $11.50 at the dealer and usually not in stock.

Adjusting the clutch on the Suzuki's (all of them I believe) you want to put all of the slack back into the cable. IE: turn the adjusting screw on the bar all the way in and the same for the adjuster on TOP of the sprocket cover.

THEN, remove the round rubber cover on the sprocket cover. You'll see a 10mm nut with a flat head screw in the middle of it. This is the clutch adjuster. Loosen the 10mm nut a few turns. With a flat head screw driver, turn the screw out a turn or two and go back in until you feel pressure. Back it off 1/4 turn.

While holding the adjusting screw in place with the screw driver, tighten the nut with a 10mm wrench. Put the round rubber cover back on, adjust the slack out of the cable using the cable adjuster on top of the sprocket cover.

You want about 3-4 mm of free play in the clutch lever. Take it around the neighborhood for a test ride.

[DHolzwarth]

Help! Screwed up my clutch adjustment

First, look here: http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=64698

Smokintalon hit a KEY POINT which I believe is left out of the manual:

BACK THE NUT OFF. (If you don't do this, you start to tighten against the lock nut, and get a false sense of resistance. I run it all the way out to the end of the adjustment screw before I start turning the screw in.)

Once you have the adjustment screw where you want it, just spin the nut back down with a fingertip, making sure you are holding the screw in place, and then finish with the 10 mm wrench.

DHolzwarth

[DumbLuck]

i have a clymer. right after putting slack in the cable, it talks about backing out the lock nut. even haynes, as crappy as they are have these steps. cant blame the manual for this one. If you did strip out the adjustor, it may cost you $50 to replace the whole release cam assembly as i've not seen the adjustor and nut as seperate parts. pray it's just the lock nut you stripped

[smokintalon]

if the nut and adjusting screw are stripped, check your local hardware stores (ACE or whatever you guys have up there). I've been able to find any bolt, nut, o-ring, washer, and other fastening/sealing parts at hardware stores vs the dealer. MUCH MUCH CHEAPER!!

[mykat]

Not entirely related but-
Smokintalon, did you ever find any good replacement for the mirror mounting bolts and the shiny wide-headed screws for the fairings? I looked through both home depot and lowes and did not find either.

[squiggy]

The pushrod pushes another rod behind the clutch and it pushes against the pressure plate.

Here's the parts fiche so you can see what he's talking about. The pushrod presses against part #20 and that piece presses against the pressure plate.

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/2/Make/Suzuki/YearID/42/Year/2001/ModelID/6390/Model/GSX750F_KATANA/GroupID/264576/Group/CLUTCH

it may cost you $50 to replace the whole release cam assembly as i've not seen the adjustor and nut as seperate parts. pray it's just the lock nut you stripped

That same parts fiche shows those two pieces as orderable, #22, 23. Even though the OP doesn't state what year he has.

if the nut and adjusting screw are stripped, check your local hardware stores (ACE or whatever you guys have up there). I've been able to find any bolt, nut, o-ring, washer, and other fastening/sealing parts at hardware stores vs the dealer. MUCH MUCH CHEAPER!!

Ace is an awesome place for metric stuff.

[Duo Maxwell]

Not entirely related but-
Smokintalon, did you ever find any good replacement for the mirror mounting bolts and the shiny wide-headed screws for the fairings? I looked through both home depot and lowes and did not find either.

Go to a store called fastenal...they have bolts for the mirrors that are identical to stock. If you are unable to find a fastenal or the screws send me a PM and I'll get the mirror ones for you (just pay shipping).

-Duo