Sigh, i've already tried seafoam as well :/
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i know you've heard this before, but,,,,,,,,,,,,, clean the carbs again. take them completely down one at a time and use lots and lots of carb cleaner and lots and lots of air. the passages thru the carb body are small and easily blocked. The jets, especially the pilots are VERY tiny and will block with litterally nothing. do NOT run wires or other hard objects thru the jet holes as you'll enlarge them ruining the jet. visually follow each passage thru the carb body so you know where it runs and feel for sure that there is carb cleaner running out, and air passing thru them. some passages have 2 or more outlets. Be very carefull and precise setting the flaots again, it really does make a huge difference. I had a rail of carbs give me major fits just reciently. they needed FOUR complete cleanings, each time the pilots were clogged again, and the last cleaning a couple passages had stopped up completely. they now fuel great and the bike runs well.
there is a major amount of truth to : "if you think they're clean, clean them again" when it comes to carbs. Oh, one last thought. when you cleaned the carbs, did you do one at a time so all the parts were not mixed up from carb to carb? I think it's #3 that has a different sized main jet in the Kat. check your manual to be sure it's #3 as my book isnt in front of me at the moment. also check that the airbox drain tube is properly plugged.99% of the questions asked here can be answered by a 2 minute search in the service manual. Get a service manual, USE IT.
1990 Suzuki GSX750F Katana
'53 Ford F250 pickumuptruck
Lookin for a new Enduro project
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I think after reading your thread im chasing the exact same issue you are. all my symptoms are identical. and ive pretty mech rebuilt or replaced everything on my bike in the last week!!!
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Pilot jets pilot jets pilot jets.
90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.
Originally posted by BadfaerieI love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means pooOriginally posted by soulless kaosbut personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.
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i just took each one apart from the rail ,disassembled it and dipped it in berrymans , then used the carb cleaner , then a broom hair then more carb cleaner , then air . did this and set everything to spec . now i don't even need the choke . i swore they were clean with just the carb cleaner , but they were'nt .
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I'm just curious... does my 90 also have different main sizes?
make sure that your airbox is sitting on the carbs properly cause I had an issue of making mine sit right. If I tried to screw the back of it in to the frame the fronts to the carbs would pop off a bit at the bottom. almost not noticable but it was definately an issue.
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No i haven't done that, but i have done the WD-40 Test with no luck :/
I dont have a propane torch anywaysLast edited by f00lishroy071; 06-30-2009, 12:59 PM.
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Propane torch is like $2. You're not going to light it, so you don't need a fancy one.
1) open torch so gas is coming out
2) Place torch in air inlet to verify vacuum leak.
3) If you have verified that air is leaking into the engine somewhere, begin to VERY SLOWLY move the torch around possible leak areas and listen for the engine to change RPM.
If you're running lean, it could also present itself as a vacuum leak. So, if you can't find any leaks around the outside of the engine, fatten it up and try again. If it still won't behave properly and indicates a lean/vaccum leak, you could have an internal vacuum leak in the carbs or something is plugged up. Could be plugged up in the air bleeds or the fuel side, so make sure both are very very clean.
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