rear brakes turns to hell

[marcusm86]

Hey, new to this forum have a 96 600 kat (obviously) was trying to replace the rear pads and cant compress the inner piston at all and the outer compresses about 1/2 way.. new to bikes but am an auto tech... well any who i go to take the caliper off the bracket and one of the bolts brake flush... great.. well it also turns out it must be a hardened bolt or something because i cannot get my "grab-it" tool to do squat... am afriad to take the bracket/caliper combo off because i dont know whats instore for me
will take any ideas into consideration..
thanks
-marcus

[ken123allen]

wow, i never had that one before. wait a few, some of these guys know these bikes better that suzuki they will be able to help you with that one. welcome to KR at any rate. good luck!!!

[Newbie2it]

Do you mean the bolt numbered 17 on this parts fiche
<a href="http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/...R_SWINGING_ARM" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.ronayers.com/fiche/thu...umb_255088.gif" alt="REAR SWINGING ARM" title="Click to view Online Microfiche for Suzuki 1996 GSX600F KATANA REAR SWINGING ARM at Ronayers.com" border="0" /></a>

or Parts number 14 and 6 on this fiche?
<a href="http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/..._MODEL_K_L_M_N" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.ronayers.com/fiche/thu...umb_255086.gif" alt="REAR CALIPER MODEL K L M N" title="Click to view Online Microfiche for Suzuki 1996 GSX600F KATANA REAR CALIPER MODEL K L M N at Ronayers.com" border="0" /></a>

Which broke and which are you afraid to remove?

(Edit: Hell that came out like crap LOL, Dunno why, but the links lead to the site and the parts list anyhow.)

[md86]

Try to take the whole brake torque arm off maybe ? But I never felt the need to remove the caliper to do pads . Perhaps a tad too much fluid in the master cylinder back there ? Hose the pistons off with brake cleaner and see if there's all kinds of crap stuck to it ? Just kinda thinking out loud .....

[marcusm86]

newbie2it.. broke number 14 (on right side instead of left so the one below 6) and am afraid to remove number 10 =) hope you understand

md86... brake fluid below the lower line... sprayed off pistons then compressed as much as i could.. rinse and repeat.. alot of times dont remember how many...
am trying to remove the caliper because the inner piston is frozen and the outer only moves partially.. but like i said to newbie2it i am afraid of taking out the bolt that holds the caliper braket to the bike

[marcusm86]

crap pic .. better than nothing maybe?? also put in my photos if it doesnt work here

[scottynoface]

Oh snap, so the bolt is still in there? Try drilling it out and using a screw extractor maybe?

[marcusm86]

lol.. if u look at the pic closely you can see where its more shiny in the middle.. yeah tried that didnt do much but put a small dent in it and make my drill smell like it was about to burn up

[Newbie2it]

bolts 17 and 16 in this shot http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/...R_SWINGING_ARM both can be removed to allow you to remove the caliper. I think there is a spring clip that holds the brake line in place on bolt 16, Its a bear to get back in but its not totally undo-able. Make sure to remove the brake pade from the side that the piston is stuck out. Once the Brake torque link is disconnected, you should be able to remove the caliper from the disk and be able to work on the broken bolt on the bench.

I beleive the bolts are grade 8.8 hardened steel.

[DumbLuck]

remove the torque arm to caliper bolt, remove the brake line banjo bolt (carefull, spilled brake fluid can eat paint quickly. a ziplock baggie over the end of the brake line helps) Mark your alignment markers, support the wheel, and pull the rear axle far enough to free the caliper holder. Note the order and orientation of any spacers and washers. Lift the entire calpier/holder assembly up and off the rotor, free from the swing arm.

Upon reassembly, use your marks as a guide to get the rear wheel close to true, then do your chain tension adjustment and true up the rear wheel. Use NEW cotter pins on your axle castle nut (if applicaple) and brake torque arm to caliper castle nut. New crush washers on the brake line banjo bolt is recomended.

[marcusm86]

thanks for the help guys will let you know how it works out