[Mojoe]

Lou....the 1250 kit with the head ported and polished with 38mm carbs will give you roughly 165hp....so I was told. He also could have just been giving me a sales pitch. It might only be 155....I really can't say. If he was being straight...it's around 165.

So there are 38 MM carbs that fit the 1100 in a kat?

my 2c i have bored/stroked quite a few car motors and if you do not also port/upgrade the head, add more cam and intake/exhaust flow all you will add is low end torque.
The bottom line is all most be in balance you can perhaps cover-up lack of port flow with more cam timing but then the ramp rates change for the opening closing events and this will limit rev limits unless upgrades are done to springs.... This is just general info as I do not know the volumetric efficiency of the heads.

Also I do not see aftermarket cams for the 91-92 1100? When I asked in other forum was told the valve train on the 91-92 1100 would not take more of a ramp rate, with out failure, they suggested using a 'busa 1300 head. Can anyone shed light on this?

You can put 44mm carbs if you want. the problem is not getting them to fit the motor.....the problem is getting the tank to sit on the bike. As I said before, the gixxer goes through body/frame changes that allow for it....the kat doesn't. I am having this problem now with 40mm carbs.
As for the cams.....I have been told that Kat cams (at least on the 1100), are pretty good stock if you want to add the big bore kit. But they do make cams for the Kat. I have a set in the Vance and Hines engine I bought....which was originally a 93 1100 Kat engine. You could always just use the gixxer 1100 head as well. But I think the stock kat head/cams will work fine if you go another route. Port/polish the head....then instead of trying to play with the cam ramp, you could always just add a bigger set of valves.
The engine I bought was fortunate enough to have it all done. Race cams, bigger valves, port/polished, bigger bore.....it has all been done. The only thing I feel it is missing is the crank. In fact, that is why I haven't put it together yet. I want to put a gixxer crank in it at the very least. A falicon crank at best.

[Mojoe]

...I plan on getting it fully broke in (600 miles) in one weekend. Then we will drop the engine, do a valve adjustment, go over everything, make sure everything is remaining tight, and put the body back on.

Are you saying that to do a valve adjustment on the 1100 engine when it's mounted in the Kat 600 frame, you have to drop the engine each time?

Curious
=-= The CyberPoet

I am going to assume he will drop it to re-torque the head while he is at it. If it is possible to do, it is always a good idea to go back and re-torque as much as you can after the break-in.

[Wild1_Robertson]

In fact, that is why I haven't put it together yet. I want to put a gixxer crank in it at the very least. A falicon crank at best.

thanks again I thought there was a larger carb that would fit with the tank, now in regards to cranks Are the gixxer cranks that different ( forged hardened or? ) IMHO if you bore and pistons are heaver then what ever crank needs to be reballenced to match. Thanks again for the info

William

[Mojoe]

In fact, that is why I haven't put it together yet. I want to put a gixxer crank in it at the very least. A falicon crank at best.

thanks again I thought there was a larger carb that would fit with the tank, now in regards to cranks Are the gixxer cranks that different ( forged hardened or? ) IMHO if you bore and pistons are heaver then what ever crank needs to be reballenced to match. Thanks again for the info

William

actually you don't have to touch the crank if you go bigger bore. the stock one will work just fine.
The difference between the katana crank and the gixxer crank is the drive gear and the clutch basket. The one on the kat has a diagonal cut gear and the gixx has a straight cut gear. There is less drag and sideway thrust with the gixxer one.