How do I get to the Air/fuel adjuster

[Bobby Ray]

Hello all,
Well I've been reading post after post about drilling out the plug to get to the Air/fuel adjuster and

I pretty much have it all down (great info guys) I really like the tip about using a dremel to make a notch in it and pop it out... any how like I'm said I pretty sure I can handle this task, I however have two question... Where is it?? and is there 4 plugs to take out??

I have the downloaded version of the owners manual put pics are a bit unclear to me.

I was really hoping someone could post a hi res. pic and or any other tips for this job ,,, I just added a m5 Two Bros pipe this weekend and I'm getting the all to familar after fires when I down shift and mild sounding pop when I up shift, I had zero issues before adding the pipe... which I love

My Kat is a 2006.

Please please help

[catfish]

remove the tank, seat bracket, airbox, and carbs to get to the brass plugs. they are on the cylinder head side of the carbs when you flip them over- next to the rail holding all the carbs together

once you have the brass bit drilled out, you can buy the Motion Pro tool to adjust them without removing all the guts of your Kat

[Bobby Ray]

Catfish,
Thanks for responding...hey your from P-Town I see...I'm from Salem and work in Wilsonville... How do you feel about giving a fellow katrider a hands on lesson .

I got a estemate from a dude in Tigard for 110.00 and that's cool but I really want to do it my self for the experience...know what I mean?

It seems like everyone here recommends a 1/2 turn at first...is that clockwise or counter??
So tell me about this tool your talking about? what is the purpose for it and why wouldn't a regular screw driver work.

Thanks again.

[Cheriff]

Once you see where the screws are located, you will realize that a regular screw driver won't reach.

I think the setting is 2.5 turns out, not 0.5. This means that you turn the screw in until it lightly seats, then back it out 2.5 turns. Count very carefully as 2.25 is different than 2.5.

To remove my caps I carefully used a drill bit. I applied light enough pressure that the cap started to spin before I went the whole way through. Then I could just pull the drill out and the caps came with it. If you go to far though, you will have a lot more trouble.

[Bobby Ray]

So once seated were talking about backing it off 2 complete turns and a half ??

Just curious ... how many turns is factory set at??

So far it sounds pretty easy.... I just might tackle it this weekend.

[steves]

They are on the underside of the carb body.

I added a PDF with pics to carbs 101 the other day.

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=63344&page=2

[Bobby Ray]

UPDATE:: Job done ! BUT?

Well I just wanted to report back with an update....job went well and I was able to drill out those plugs with ease although I may need to go back in for a little fine tuning..Thank you all for helping out with your replies.

I went with the 2.5 turns out and that made a big difference but I occasionally get some after fire especially when I do a hard down shift ???

Does anyone know if I need to back out the adjuster screw more or less to
get rid of the after fire completely??

Also maybe once a week I get a single pop out of my exhaust when I start it in the morning .... that never happened before I backed the adjuster screw out.

Well thanks again.

B-

[arsenic]

thats not an after fire, thats a back fire, try 2.25 turns instead of 2.5

[Bobby Ray]

thats not an after fire, thats a back fire, try 2.25 turns instead of 2.5

Thanks for your input... I'll try the 2.25...the sound I'm getting when I downshift is more of a gargle that comes from my exhaust....I'm not getting a loud bang like the normal sounding back fire, so I thought it was after fire >??

[steves]

Backfire in an automobile engine typically results from various malfunctions related to the air to fuel ratio. Usually, backfiring occurs in carbureted engines that are running lean where the air fuel mixture has insufficient fuel. ("Running lean" is typically a sign of mal-adjusted carburetors or fuel injection where there is not enough fuel for the amount of air). Afterfire occurs in engines that have an emission system malfunction (air injection system diverter valve), exhaust leak or unburnt fuel in an exhaust system in which the catalytic converter has been removed.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Back-fire

[catfish]

just a note, there is a Motion Pro tool (sort of an angled screwdriver) to get to those pesky adjustment screws. it sells for $25-30 and Cycle Gear here in Portland has it on the shelf. makes syncs and tuning a lot easier!

[quote=Bobby Ray;1466977]Catfish,
Thanks for responding...hey your from P-Town I see...I'm from Salem and work in Wilsonville... How do you feel about giving a fellow katrider a hands on lesson quote]

sorry i didn't catch this. we should definitely meet up at some point. perhaps a KR Oregon meet is in order this summer...

[Psycho1]

That'd be cool, too bad I'd probably miss it due to work.

[Bobby Ray]

[quote=catfish;1480268]just a note, there is a Motion Pro tool (sort of an angled screwdriver) to get to those pesky adjustment screws. it sells for $25-30 and Cycle Gear here in Portland has it on the shelf. makes syncs and tuning a lot easier!

Catfish,
Thanks for responding...hey your from P-Town I see...I'm from Salem and work in Wilsonville... How do you feel about giving a fellow katrider a hands on lesson quote]

sorry i didn't catch this. we should definitely meet up at some point. perhaps a KR Oregon meet is in order this summer...

I was looking at that tool.....but I was wondering how exact it was when
adjusting the screws, do you have good success using the tool?

[catfish]

it doesn't need to be exact; i use it in conjunction with a sync gauge that is providing the measure to where the adjustments should be set