Cylinder #1 Not Firing

[Cheriff]

So here is the info:

First time starting after installing jet kit, adjusting valves, new plugs, new air filter, install ignition advancer.

I set it to prime for 10-15 seconds since the bowls were empty and it started right up. I little rough and on some choke. After a minute or so I try to reduce the choke and it cuts out. Touch the throttle, it cuts off. It sounded a little bit rough but I accounted that to the need for the synch.

Cylinder #1 exhaust cold. All others hot.
Gas in bowl #1
Spark plug #1 clean and dry.

Plugged pilot circuit? Is that as simple as removing the carbs again, draining the bowls, flipping them over, remove #1 bowl, remove pilot jet and use some carb cleaner and compressed air???

Other than this it sounded nice. Reduced valve sounds and deeper in pitch. Me almost very happy

[arsenic]

yes, check the main jet too

[Cheriff]

I should mention that when I installed the new main jets, I also removed the emulsion tube (I think that is what is under the main jet). Realized it was the wrong thing and put it back on. Any danger/damage done there?

[arsenic]

the emulsion tube is the whole thing the needle slides in, you didn't take that out by accident, you gotta press that out

[Cheriff]

Ok, so I removed the thing that sits directly under the main jet before I realized it just sat on top of it. Anway, thanks for the help and hopefully I will post again in a few hours.

And since I am going to be in there again, what should the air/fuel screws be set to? Ivan says 4 turns out, CP says 3 in his directions. I set mine to 3.5. (2000 750 Kat)

[Cheriff]

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The pilot and main jet on #1 looked good. . I could see light through both. Should I put it together and see if anything changed, or is there something else I can do? Is there more to clean other than just the pilot jet itself?

[Cheriff]

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UPDATE:

Put everything back together and it starts but INSTANTLY revs up to 5-6000k. What now????

At least all 4 cylinders are firing now


Sounds close to the thread a couple below this one, but it is instantly. Scared the crap out of me the first time it happened.

[arsenic]

my money is on the throttle cables, kinda like it always is

[Cheriff]

I ran in here to say that the rear one was too tight.. BRB gotta go see if it starts

All seems well. It started and ran until it began to run out of gas then I turned it off.

All four cylinders firing. While I had the carbs out again I cleaned all pilots and choke jets.

Idle seemed a bit unsteady/bouncy. I am going to guess this is normal for a bike that needs synched.

[arsenic]

yup

[Cheriff]

If I can bother the forum one more time tonight, I would like to review the carb synch steps. (If it makes a difference, I have a morgan.)

1- I am confused as to when you warm up the bike. It seems like it has to be after you have connected to the vacuum lines so you don't burn yourself in the process. This means it will start and idle properly if connected to the carbtune?

2- I think I am going to just buy some rubber hose so that the real tank can work from an adjacent table. Do I just connect to the gas line (nothing on the vacuum) and turn to prime when I want gas to flow?

3- Warm it up enough so that it will sustain idle with no choke, but before full temperature? Have a fan blowing cool air on the oil cooler.

4- Finally, Cyber's directions state that you can remove the carbs away from the intake boots after the synch is finished to help remove the lines and put the boots back on. I thought this alone would warrant a re-synch. Not true? (I've asked this in a couple times today, but no answers).

Cheers

[arsenic]

answers

If I can bother the forum one more time tonight, I would like to review the carb synch steps. (If it makes a difference, I have a morgan.)

1- I am confused as to when you warm up the bike. It seems like it has to be after you have connected to the vacuum lines so you don't burn yourself in the process. This means it will start and idle properly if connected to the carbtune? - yes

2- I think I am going to just buy some rubber hose so that the real tank can work from an adjacent table. Do I just connect to the gas line (nothing on the vacuum) and turn to prime when I want gas to flow? - yes

3- Warm it up enough so that it will sustain idle with no choke, but before full temperature? Have a fan blowing cool air on the oil cooler. - no

4- Finally, Cyber's directions state that you can remove the carbs away from the intake boots after the synch is finished to help remove the lines and put the boots back on. I thought this alone would warrant a re-synch. Not true? (I've asked this in a couple times today, but no answers). - not true, if you don't fully remove them from the boots, no sync

Cheers

[Cheriff]

#3: so, full temperature?

#4: No pressure there

Answer in Haynes is "normal operating temperature"

[Kfreak]

I'm dumb here. I never sync'd my carbs. When I did my jet kit I left the carb's linked together.O.K. don't shoot me. When syncing, aren't you adjusting the screws to align the carbs to open at the same time? Do you adjust 1+2 then 3+4 then the center adjusting screw last? So assuming you have a good seal on all 4 boots (no air leaks) by taking them off and re-installing them and guaranteeing a good seal you don't have to re-sync?

[Cheriff]

It adjusts air flow through the carbs so that they are all pulling the same. If uneven some/one will run hotter than the rest and cause vibrations, lower gas mileage, uneven wear ect.. If you adjust the valves it is a must. Take arsenic's answer over mine.