Jet Kit, Valve Adjust, & Synch

[Cheriff]

Now that I suspect my brake situation is under control, I am moving on to the other goodies waiting in my tool box. On the to-do list is an Ivan's jet kit, valve adjust, and carb synch (probably after grinding out the welds) are the major ones.

I have read a lot of posts and write ups and think I am ready to take these on, but have a few questions.

Jet Kit:
Found CP's write up and it was a big help. I am also reading the Haynes and noticed it says to use a new bowl gasket as "a new one must be used". I think the answer is no, but is this true?

Valve adjustment:
This one has me a little nervous. While the carbs were off I was going to take a shot at the valve adjustment since I don't know when it was done last. Is it necessary to replace the O-rings on the oil hose unions.

I've bought the valve tool from CP, have the high-temp sealant on hand, allen sockets for torquing the bolts back on, know not to pry the cover off with a screwdriver, and plan on using single longer feeler gauges so that I can put it across both valves as I adjust. Any other helpful hints to make those going easier? I am guessing it is wise to do the valves while the carbs are out.

Finally, I am struggling how to figure out how to remove the dust bunnies from my empty tank. I have some sediment (sp?) in there and think using a shop vac is a bad idea. Maybe using some compressed air while holding it upside down with a bit of patients? (It isn't rust. No signs in the tank with a mirror and it isn't magnetic.)

Thanks guys. I hope to get the bike rolling by Sunday

[Rok_Stars_Bars]

Well the carbs wasn't bad for me. But the valve was a different story. I brought a Blue point 6mm gear wrench and cut down a 6mm allen wrench and glue it in place. So i could get to the bolts under the frame easy. The o-rings I just check there conditions mine looks good so I reuse mine. And the adjustment of the valves I screwed up the first time. The first time I dont know what I did wrong but one of the valve was just a talking to me. But the second time I really took my time. I use middle number of the 3 (for example .005 -.007 i use .006 and really snug it on .006 so when I remove it I know its in limites)

[Newbie2it]

For the dust bunnies, try this little trick, Tape a wad of paper towel to the end of a dowel. Nothing huge, but just enough so it can grap stuff. Dip the paper towel into something like oil, or WD-40 or even gas. Then just dab them up. Dont use water since you dont need to intro moisture into the tank. Its why I suggested oils or gas, tho gas will evap a little quicker. Obviously you dont need the papertowel dripping of oil either, just wet enough for it to get the stuff to stick to the end of the dowel.

[Cheriff]

For the dust bunnies, try this little trick, Tape a wad of paper towel to the end of a dowel. Nothing huge, but just enough so it can grap stuff. Dip the paper towel into something like oil, or WD-40 or even gas. Then just dab them up. Dont use water since you dont need to intro moisture into the tank. Its why I suggested oils or gas, tho gas will evap a little quicker. Obviously you dont need the papertowel dripping of oil either, just wet enough for it to get the stuff to stick to the end of the dowel.

I tried using a paint stir stick and a paper towel, but I forgot to wet it. Thanks for the tip. It seems obvious now, but I think the kerosene and gas fumes were clouding my thoughts.

Well the carbs wasn't bad for me. But the valve was a different story. I brought a Blue point 6mm gear wrench and cut down a 6mm allen wrench and glue it in place. So i could get to the bolts under the frame easy. The o-rings I just check there conditions mine looks good so I reuse mine. And the adjustment of the valves I screwed up the first time. The first time I dont know what I did wrong but one of the valve was just a talking to me. But the second time I really took my time. I use middle number of the 3 (for example .005 -.007 i use .006 and really snug it on .006 so when I remove it I know its in limites)

Not sure what a "Blue point 6mm gear wrench" is. Got a picture of your device???

So it looks like Blue point was just the brand of the wrench (open ended or box) and you used a cut 6mm allen to reduce the height? Makes sense.

[Cheriff]

Installed the Ivan's last night. All appeared to go well. Won't know until I do the valves tonight and start putting it back together. Hopefully there won't be a frantic thread from me in a few days

[Newbie2it]

I'll keep my eyes cross for ya

[Cheriff]

Thanks Newbie. Things will definitely go better if you do that instead of me.

It took me about 4 hours last night, but the valve adjustment is complete. I made sure to take notes, pictures, and bag/label the removed bolts ect. A couple valve sets were in spec., a couple were out a mil, but the #1 exhaust was set to 5 -5. Now it is 8 -8. That made it feel like it was well worth the time.

Tonight's schedule is filled with bleeding brakes yet again, adjusting chain, trying to get those dam bunnies out of the tank, putting the carbs back on, and install the new ignition advancer.

The ignition advancer needs an air impact wrench to remove correct? I have an impact driver, but don't have an adapter that fits the allen head.

If I can get all that done tonight, it will be carb synch time tomorrow and plastics back on At least that is what I am hoping for.

[Cheriff]

Update: carbs, airbox, wires, cables, everything connected again. Got most of the bunnies out of the tank, adjusted the chain (lubed it again) and bled the brakes a final time (no bubbles showed themselves).

Tomorrow after work I will put some gas in and see if it runs. IF that goes well I will get out the Morgan and synch the carbs. This brings me to my question.

Unless my fingers shrink and I become double jointed in my sleep, how am I supposed to take the vacuum caps off?

I've read CP's write up and it says at the end that you have to disconnect the carbs again. I thought disconnecting them warranted carb synching. The way I interpret this says that removing the carbs from the intake boots is how you get to the caps and doesn't cancel out the synching work you just did. Just keep the airbox on. Is this correct?

[Newbie2it]

No need to remove the carbs to get to the synch ports if the gas tanks not in the way.

[Cheriff]

So taking the vacuum caps off is just a pain in the butt? No slight of hand tricks available?

[Newbie2it]

The caps are a pain to get to but you should be able to slide them off with duckbill pliers ect on a 2000. Just give them a little twist and they should slide off. Might need to remove the clamp.

[Cheriff]

Thanks.. You've been a big help throughout my projects the last week.

[katat58]

Go to your local auto parts store and get an extra long pair of needle nose pliers with a 45 degree bend in the nose. You then can reach all the vaccum caps and just pull them off. I bought all new caps at the auto parts store and replaced as needed. The pliers I bought were approx. 10" long and were around $10 bucks (got the bargin set). These pliers also come in real handy to help reconnect your throtle cable behind the carbs.

[Newbie2it]

Thanks.. You've been a big help throughout my projects the last week.

No thanks needed, Its what we are all here for, to help each other.

[Cheriff]

Go to your local auto parts store and get an extra long pair of needle nose pliers with a 45 degree bend in the nose. You then can reach all the vaccum caps and just pull them off. I bought all new caps at the auto parts store and replaced as needed. The pliers I bought were approx. 10" long and were around $10 bucks (got the bargin set). These pliers also come in real handy to help reconnect your throtle cable behind the carbs.

I think I am going to have to get a pair of those and do it again soon. In the process of getting the caps back on I had to pull them from the intake boots. Not ideal after synching. Other than that it went pretty smooth.