[ctandc]

Well picked up the NGK 3521 plugs for the 750 motor (NAPA had 'em for $8 each so not too bad), picked up some more Seafoam, some brake cleaner, a jug of Mobil 1 15w 50, and a 32MM socket from Sears.

WHO IN GOD'S NAME HAMMERED my front sprocket on? Jeez........

I thought my Impact was going to puke. Ended up holding the rear brake with my right foot putting a 5ft PVC pipe over my 1/2" ratchet and wailed on it a few times....finally got mad and just held the impact on it with one hand, held the rear brake with the other and cussed it repeatedly....it came off. And with enough blue loctite on it to weld it on...

I'm gonna change clothes, grab a bite,and get to work:

1. Get the alternator out
2. Drain / drop the oil cooler
3. Drop the exhaust
4. Drop the oil pan (it has a Fumoto and is going on the 750 engine)
5. Pull the factory pro shift spring out and put the original back in.
6. Get the Factory pro advancer off and replace w/ the original
7. Drop the engine
8. Cuss when I realize something is still connected

If I'm still sober enough or sane enough, I'm gonna clean up the 750 engine, check the valves, and verify if the engine cradles are the same between the 01 750 and my 91 600......

Tomorrow, after baseball scrimmage, is mount the engine, and put everything back together.

Then Ivan's jet kit in the carbs, then hopefully fire it up. Once it's running decent I'll leave the bodywork off and ride it around the street to get it up to temp then sync the carbs with the Morgan Carbtune I recently scored.


After that it's time to sand sand sand sand sand the fairings.

I'm tired just from typing that...

[ctandc]

Got started late...getting a quick bite turned into a nap in the recliner..oh well..

I had some extra steps most people won't have. Since I installed a post 98 oil pan and pickup (so I could install the post 98 header / exhaust) and I modified it so I could install a Fumoto Valve, I ended up taking off the post 98 pan, pickup and removing my factory pro shift spring, then installing the OEM spring, pickup and pan.

I would have took pictures, but I was under the bike with oil dripping in my face and wasn't in the mood......


So here's the pre 98 sprocket setup



And here's the post 98 sprocket setup



Notice the extra piece on the end of the post 98 sprocket. It's for the post 98's speed sensor, which isn't needed on the pre 98 (if using the pre 98 harness and gauges). I'll be swapping the pre 98's sprocket onto the 750 anyway, so it's a moot point...but I'm not sure if the bolt / washer on the pre 600 will fit into the shat on the post 750...if not I'll pick one up

Also I removed the neutral indicator switch from my pre 600 and will install it on the 750 engine. The plugs were different....and I wasn't in the mood to start tracing wires and see what's what. Two screws hold on so it's not a big deal.

The pre 98 alternator



I've removed the front cover on it so you can see the wiring setup. The alternator itself has a pigtail that runs back and plugs into the harness


The post 98 alternator below:



On the post 98, the harness plugs into the alternator casing itself. I'll simply install my pre 98 alternator on the new engine, and move on...


Finally got it out. NOTE : I DO NOT recommend anyone do it like I did...that is remove the engine mount bolts, then prop it with a floor jack, then remove the cradle to frame bolts and realize the oil cooler mounts are in the way...4 bolts later they are out of the way, then as I'm lowering the engine with my floor jack I realize it's going to take my front fender out (yes I should have removed the front wheel.....sue me) and I end up literally wrestling the engine out sitting on my butt....Not something I'll likely do again...but it worked...




And finally the old 600 on the left and the new (to me...4.2K miles) 750 on the right.



Now it's a valve check / adjustment on the 750.

Remove the 5 degree advancer from the 600 and install on the 750

Clean the 750 up.

Install new plugs

Install the 750's coils / spark plug wires (newer and free)

Swap engine cradles...they LOOK the same, but the front mounts for the belly fairing don't seem to match up and one bolts on and the other doesn't.

Get the 750 in and put everything back together.

[ctandc]

Finally had some time to get some work done on the swap...

Did the valve check on the 750. All were in spec. Engine looks good inside (and it ran very well) but I honestly wonder if it ever got an oil change (4.2K on it when I got it)...... I'm gonna use some non-synthetic Castrol or Valvoline motorcycle oil for the first change (and the filter I had on my 600 that only had about 1500 miles on it) run it for a day or two, then use a fresh filter and a fill of Mobil 1 synthetic




Swapped the engine cradles out. They are different.

Here's the two side by side. The pre 98 600 on the left, post 98 750 on the right. Main difference is the lower fairing mounts up front...they are in total different places, and the bolt holes are in different places, so you can't swap the brackets.










For those interested, here's how the engine cradle mounts to the engine in the front



This is how it mounts on the lower rear...




I was gonna swap my pan w/ Fumoto on , but realized the Fumoto would get in the way when getting the engine in place. And of course the oil pan gasket ripped, so I gotta pick one up, hopefully someone stocks one around here.

Got the 5 degree advancer swapped to the 750 as well.

Trying now to rig my ratchet straps some way to get the engine up in the frame without another set of hands.....we'll see.

[Newbie2it]

Trying now to rig my ratchet straps some way to get the engine up in the frame without another set of hands.....we'll see.

Why not just lift the bike up while the motor stays on the jack, then lower it to the right height? Its what I did to remove and install my motor. But I was using a cherry picker to lift the bike. Wouldn't you be able to ratchet the bike up and lower it onto the motor?

[ctandc]

Why not just lift the bike up while the motor stays on the jack, then lower it to the right height? Its what I did to remove and install my motor. But I was using a cherry picker to lift the bike. Wouldn't you be able to ratchet the bike up and lower it onto the motor?

That's exactly what I thought. Well it turns out that the post 98 oil pan is not "flat" like the pre 98 pan. And it makes it almost impossible to even hold the engine on the jack to keep it balanced.

I tried the strap deal...but it was late and I was ready to go to sleep. I'll start fresh tonight hopefully.

[steves]

That's exactly what I thought. Well it turns out that the post 98 oil pan is not "flat" like the pre 98 pan. And it makes it almost impossible to even hold the engine on the jack to keep it balanced.

Yup. I had two people help me strong arm the 98+ motor into the kat frame.

[ctandc]

I'm open for suggestions. I've got a floor jack, not a motorcycle / ATV jack. I got it under the frame of the bike, and pretty much lined up, but can't figure a way to rig the ratchet straps on the engine or engine cradle, so that it brings it up level with the heavy side shifting one way or the other.

I'm gonna try again this evening.

[Newbie2it]

Uhh... Level the engine on the jack.. weather you need to remove the oil pan, use two 2" x 4"'s or whatever. If you get the motor stable, and are able to raise the frame over it.. to lower it in place... It shouldn't matter what you use to hold the motor. As long as the motors stable.. think outside the box., Adjust the motor to meet the bike. (i.E. Lower the bike to meet the stable motor, Raise the motor to meet the bike)

[steves]

We had two people holding the motor up, while the third put the rear bolts in. Then I used a 4x4 and a jack to lever it into place and secure the cradle.

[ctandc]

Uhh... Level the engine on the jack.. weather you need to remove the oil pan, use two 2" x 4"'s or whatever. If you get the motor stable, and are able to raise the frame over it.. to lower it in place... It shouldn't matter what you use to hold the motor. As long as the motors stable.. think outside the box., Adjust the motor to meet the bike. (i.E. Lower the bike to meet the stable motor, Raise the motor to meet the bike)

LOL...just seeing if someone else had already plowed this road. No need to reinvent the wheel as they say.

And the post oil pan makes it really fun to try to make the engine stable. And I was trying to do this by myself, and thought I had it licked by using another set of ratchet straps pulling from the pipe stand the bike is currently on. But the way the cradle runs and the way the weight is distributed on the engine, it's a pain.

I've got a buddy who may come over this evening and give me another pair of hands.

Even if I take off the oil pan, I'd also have to remove the oil pickup, then both side of the cradle would be the lowest point on the engine.

My next attack by myself will be to wrap a 2nd strap around the rear parts of the cradle, then center the strap as it comes up, which would hopefully allow me to line up the rear motor mount bolts. Once those are in, everything else would be relatively easy to get done, even by myself.

In fact it looks like if I can get the rear lower bolts in, I could then use a ratchet strap on the front bar of the engine crade and ratchet it up, rotating on that lower bolt, and line up the upper rear bolt and then bolt the cradle to the frame.

Just working through some options in my head, as I get a minute or two at work today. I really want to get the engine mounted and at least get some of the reassembly done tonight, as I won't be back in town until late Sunday night. I'm shooting to the bike running by Tues / Wed so I can start the paint job.

[steves]

Just be careful with the motor until it's seated and bolted in.... one wrong move can tweak those bolts pretty badly.

[ctandc]

Well if I was doing this on a regular basis, I would take the time to make something that would let the engine sit level on my floor jack, and do it myself. But since I have a good friend who will do almost anything at the offer of free beer.....

It's in



Kind of messed up that it took us all of 10 minutes to lift the engine in, and have my son feed the back motor mount bolts in.

Also I think I found the reason the main breaker kept going out on me...




Rubbed right through. I'll go through the rest of the harness on Monday when I get back in town then tape it all back up....

I should have it running by Tuesday night.

[Jax]

Thank you for posting this up...It is a real eye opener and I will be doing this mod soon...next couple of weeks but a little different...I got a post 98 750 wiring harness and the gauge cluster so it will be a little bit different for me...good job...

[ctandc]

Thank you for posting this up...It is a real eye opener and I will be doing this mod soon...next couple of weeks but a little different...I got a post 98 750 wiring harness and the gauge cluster so it will be a little bit different for me...good job...

No problem. I'm glad someone can learn from the hurdles I hit. I won't get anything done on the swap until Monday after work....family trip this weekend.

First up is stripping pretty much the entire harness and make sure that's the only bad spot. Good thing is I can route the wires pretty much how I want, and I'll retape everything.

[arsenic]

whats the verdict on the pre and post alternator?