Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.
X

Spark Plug Thread Repair

Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Spark Plug Thread Repair

    I had to fix mine, so I thought I would try to do a step by step with pics. Hopefully this helps someone.

    1. Find your proper size kit. Mine was a for a 1990 750 which uses a NGK JR8C or JR9C. I think the bolt size was a M12 x 1.25. The tools are (from left to right) Reamer/Tap, thread insert, thread insert tool.




    Here is stripped plug cavity.






    2.Insert reamer/tap into spark plug cavity. Make sure it seats square. Begin to turn by hand. When you feel the reamer/tap start to securely cut the thread, you can begin to turn the tap with a socket, mine required the use of a 12mm socket. Turn slowly and avoid any sideward force.I already had my cam cover removed, but I think you can do it with the cover still on.










    3. As the reamer/tap cuts to make the thread, the metal that is being cut falls into the cylinder. Now its time to take out all of the metal shavings you just dropped into your combustion chamber. I used a magnet. BE VERY VERY THOROUGH. It can take up to an hour or more to get all of the shavings out. (Technically, you won't get ALL of the shavings out) Take your time and do it right. You can use compressed air to help, but I didn't, seeing as my cover was off, and the shavings would have gone all over my cams,valve stems, etc..






    Its blurry and you can't see it all, but there is alot of metal on here.





    4. Now its time to insert the thread.





    Its VERY important not to remove the tang (center metal piece) from the insert until AFTER the insert has been installed. That is how the insert tool threads the insert down into you newly tapped threads.


    5. Seat the insert on the insert tool.




    6. Seat the insert tool and body over the cavity, and begin to turn the insert tool clockwise to install the thread insert.



    My pics don't show, but the insert tool is a 3 piece unit. It has the threaded tool (the piece with the T handle). The stopper. (the round piece right under the T handle) And the tool body. (The piece that you see here, with the Helicoil sticker). Each piece has a specific function and your kit should come with basic instructions, but if you have problems, just PM me and I'll explain it fully.


    7. Set the stopper the approximate length of the spark plug thread depth, so you don't insert the thread to far down the bore. Turn the T handle slowly and carefully and stop when the stopper comes in contact with the insert tool body.

    8. Once you have installed the thread, turn the handle counterclockwise and remove the insert tool.

    9. Now you will need to break of the tang from the insert. To do this a LONG set of needle nose pliers will be needed.




    10. Make sure and give it another once over with the magnet, especially since the tang will most likely have fallen in the cylinder. Check to see if the insert is about 1mm or 2 down from the top of the cavity. If so, insert spark plug and tighten down. If it's good, your all done. Reassemble and run.

    This is my first how to. I hope that I was thorough and specific enough. If I left anything out, feel free to say. I welcome constructive criticism.

  • #2
    Nice, thanks for sharing that!

    Someone needs to do a how to on taking pictures of shiny round things..
    (I can't do it either)

    Comment


    • #3
      Good Job!!
      2007 Honda CBR600rr
      2007 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-14




      visit the Twisted Assassins
      sigpic

      Comment


      • #4
        nice write up

        Comment


        • #5
          good job, one thing, you said to use a magnet to get the shavings out of the spark plug hole, not being a dick but im pretty sure aluminum is not magnetic so you could not use a magnet to get the shavings out, i hope you got yours cleaned out good enough.

          I like to put a dab of red locktight on the helicoil so it dont ever try to back out on you when you remove the plugs

          Comment


          • #6
            +1

            a magnet won't pick up shavings from an aluminum head


            However harbor frieght sells small detail attachments for shop vacs.
            Attach a piece of 3/8 hose and you can suck out the shavings.

            I tried it on a snowmobile engine a few years back, then removed the head and cylinder to see if the vacuum worked to pick out the shavings. What I found was the shavings all piled up in the center of the piston crown, with only the odd shaving falling to the side. It picked everything up and left no shavings in there.
            98 GSX750F
            95 Honda VT600 vlx
            08 Tsu SX200

            HardlyDangerous Motosports

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by bluekat04 View Post
              im pretty sure aluminum is not magnetic
              steel isn't magnetic either, but it sticks to a magnet

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by arsenic1016 View Post
                steel isn't magnetic either, but it sticks to a magnet
                you know what a ment

                Comment


                • #9
                  yes I did

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    smart a**

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hey , uh , maybe you should mention making sure the piston is at the bottom of the stroke to make sure you don't tap into it . Also , I've read that grease on the threads helps keep the metal shavings from getting all up in yo bidness . If I were to do that though , I'd probably wanna just take the head off . Will cost a couple extra hours , but I'd KNOW there weren't no shavings in the engine. But I'm a worrier .
                      I am a fluffy lil cuddly lovable bunny , dammit !



                      Katrider's rally 2011 - md86

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        You guys made some good points. Its crazy though, I was able to get the shavings out with the magnet, not to sure on the exact science of it.

                        Dito on the piston being at BDC. I knew I was going to forget some details. I'll do better next time.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by benzo007 View Post
                          You guys made some good points. Its crazy though, I was able to get the shavings out with the magnet, not to sure on the exact science of it.

                          Dito on the piston being at BDC. I knew I was going to forget some details. I'll do better next time.
                          Can aluminum be magnetized? As in, if you rub the hell out of it with a magnet, will it become magnetic?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I don't think so

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by arsenic1016 View Post
                              steel isn't magnetic either, but it sticks to a magnet
                              Actually steel is magnetic. Definition of magnetic from http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/magnetic "3.capable of being magnetized or attracted by a magnet."

                              Originally posted by Disturbedperson View Post
                              Can aluminum be magnetized? As in, if you rub the hell out of it with a magnet, will it become magnetic?
                              A material needs to be ferrous (contain iron) to be magnetized. You can create a static charge on aluminum, but you will not make it magnetic.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X