[arsenic]

wait, you have a pre wiring harness right? Then you need a pre alternator, the alternator has to stay with the harness.

[ExarKun16v]

Ok I took some pics last night and I had a discussion with Arsenic so some of my questions have been answered




Here is the sprocket cover that came with the engine. As you can see the shifter pivot snapped off. I figure this cover is junk. I will take out the clutch worm gear and put it in my pre cover. The pre worm gear I am using now has to be adjust way back and the screw pokes the rubber cover.





Here's the 05 tranny in the frame. Sorry the pic is a little blurry. Two questions for this pic. The sensor that is just visible under the sprocket is the neutral position indicator. The connector on this one is different that the one on my 97 engine. Is it easy to swap out the sensor or can I cut off the connector and splice in the connector from my 97 sensor? I'd rather not do any splicing if possible.

My main question is for the shifter shaft in the lower middle of the picture. This seems to be getting bound up in the pre sprocket cover. The 05 sprocket cover fits no problem. When I put the 97 cover on the shaft is just not quite in the right spot and gets slightly bound up in the hole. I can still shift but the shifter will not return to its rest position. I need to give it a little push to get it back to rest. Could this be because I was still using the pre clutch worm gear? From what I understand I need to remove the clutch to replace that shaft. I really dont want to do that.


Now for some pics to show why I'm doing this in the first place.

Hole in the piston:



Missing intake valves. Again sorry for the blurriness, but if you look closely you can just make out the gouge taken out from the bridge between the two intake valves.


Valve train parts:

[arsenic]

yeah the neutral position switch is easy to swap, but you don't need too, the connector is the same pre and post. The post just has a third wire for first gear, but they are the same, the light still comes on in neutral.

[ExarKun16v]

I think I firgured out why my sprocket cover didn't fit. It looks like it was jamming up on the sprocket nut washer.

There is a 6mm allen bolt that holds on a washer with four prongs that stick out. This washer keeps the 32mm front sprocket bolt from loosen up. It seems that one or 2 of these "prongs" was preventing the sporcket cover from seating correctly. I removed the allen bolt and washer and the cover went on no problem. Can I just use any washer that the 6 mm bolt fits through? or should I clearance the sprocket cover? By clearance I mean attack with an angle grinder and grind down the internal ridge its getting caught on.

The washer is visible in the second pic. It sitting right in the middle of the front sprocket.

I'm still continuing through the swap. I still need to reconnect the cables, swap the alternator, and put the carbs on. I hope to be done soon.

[steves]

I used the sensor from the frame in the newer motor, just because the old sensor's wire was cut already.

[#1 Moses]

engine swap

If you meed some odds and ends i just pulled a 2004 600 out of a bent frame will be parting it on this site.

[md86]

I BELIEVE that odd washer is for the speedy-o-meter sensor in the post . You won't need that using the cable/speedo from your pre . Yeah , just stick a washer on there . Don't forget the Loctite .

[reconstyle]

That washer is the speed sensor rotor, and if you aren't using the electronic speedo (which is 98+ only) then you don't even need that washer or screw on there.

The 32mm sprocket nut is a lock nut and if you torque it correctly, it's not going to come loose, ever.

[ExarKun16v]

If you meed some odds and ends i just pulled a 2004 600 out of a bent frame will be parting it on this site.

#1 Moses,

Thanks for the offer but I think I'm good for now. I'll let you know if I need anything.

I tightened the 32mm nut to the correct torque, but I will throw a washer on there just to be on the safe side. You never know.

I have all the wires reconnected except the one coming from the engine case. It looks like it's the oil pressure sensor. It has a different connection than my old one. The new one on the engine has a three connector plug while my wiring harness has a 2 connector plug, and a seperate ground wire. What should I do?

The alternator, oil pan, and oil pickup are all swapped. I used the old gasket so I will need to replace it real soon, It's probably going to leak. I just want to test the engine and make sure it runs. I'm going to replace all the oil anyway after I test ride it.Today I'm going to put the carbs, oil cooler, and tank back on. Maybe I'll get to start it today, cross your fingers.

[md86]

That washer is the speed sensor rotor, and if you aren't using the electronic speedo (which is 98+ only) then you don't even need that washer or screw on there.

The 32mm sprocket nut is a lock nut and if you torque it correctly, it's not going to come loose, ever.

You'd be surprised .......
I changed a guys sprockets/chain for him . His countershaft sprocket .... well , I braced to get ready to give it a BIG push I knew it would need , and before I set myself , the thing spun itself
almost right off . Pre98's have a hole in that shaft for a bolt and washer , too . Get a washer just larger than the diameter of said shaft , get a bolt that fits proper , get you some Loctite , and make sure it's done RIGHT . Won't cost you much extra time , and it's one less thing to worry about . I DID ride MY bike around for about 4 years without the washer/bolt until I realized it was supposed to be there , but really , why push it ?

[ExarKun16v]

You'd be surprised .......
I changed a guys sprockets/chain for him . His countershaft sprocket .... well , I braced to get ready to give it a BIG push I knew it would need , and before I set myself , the thing spun itself
almost right off . Pre98's have a hole in that shaft for a bolt and washer , too . Get a washer just larger than the diameter of said shaft , get a bolt that fits proper , get you some Loctite , and make sure it's done RIGHT . Won't cost you much extra time , and it's one less thing to worry about . I DID ride MY bike around for about 4 years without the washer/bolt until I realized it was supposed to be there , but really , why push it ?

Yea I just haven't gotten around to getting the washer yet. I am more concerned about getting the bike running. I'll probably just run the bike around the block a few times to make sure it works if I don't get the washer before its running.

Another update for you guys.

I cleaned the carbs and got them back on the bike with the air box. I'm going to need to sync them though. Not looking forward to that. Time to do some reading.

Attached the oil cooler.

I swapped the oil pan and pickup. My new gasket isn't here yet so I was hoping to use the old one for testing purposes. However, when I took the old pan off I didn't notice that a little piece of gasket was stuck to a corner. I bolted it up ajnd put some oil in, and it leaked right out. I had enough time to take the plugs out and run the starter to get everything nice and lubed with no load on the main bearingsthough. After that I drained out the oil. I kept everything nice and clean so I should be able to use it again. I'm only going to run it a few miles before I changed the oil and filter again. Just incase there is any nastiness in the engine. It's an 05 but I have no idea how long it has been sitting.

I still need to put the tank and coil packs on. I'm doing that today and then its going to sit untill I get that gasket. There has been gas sitting in the tank for about two months now. I should probably drain that out right?

I'll keep you guys posted.

[Newbie2it]

After two months without some stabilizer? I would say its close to time to dump it and use it in the lawn mower. I'd err on the side of caution and would rather start with fresh stuff.

[ExarKun16v]

Well I got it to run last night. WooHoo! I was pretty surprised when it started up almost the first time. I primed the carbs but it still took a couple of cranks for it to fire up. I am having a few problems that I wanted to bounce off you guys.

First I drilled out the rear baffles in my exhaust for a little better sound. It sounds real good but I think I threw off the tuning of the carbs. Will I be able to adjust the carbs with the stock jets or do I need a jet kit?

I'm almost positive the carbs are out of synch. It has a real rough idle and when I rev it the RPM's take a little while to drop back down. I should synch them first before I start trying to tune the air/fuel ratio correct?

I took it for a few laps around the block and it felt like the clutch was slipping. I adjusted it according to the manual twice but it still is engaging almost at the end of the lever travel. The adjustment screw is sticking WAY out. If you recall I had to swap back to the pre sprocket cover. I am still using the post worm gear. Should I also be using the pre push rod instead of the post push rod?

The only electrical gremlin I have is with the neutral switch. My neutral light keeps switching off intermittently. I think I have a bad connection somewhere so I am going to take a look tonight.

One screw up on my part is I didnt check the engine covers fully before I filled it with oil. The bike had been low sided and the left engine cover is scuffed up but I didn't see any cracks at first. When I filled it with oil I found I have a small leak from a tiny crack at the bottom of the cover. I will need to swap that out for my pre engine cover. It really sux because it took over 2 weeks to get my oil pan gasket. I ordered from bikebandit.com and they happened to be surrounded by wildfire for a little while.

Man I like having a working bike again but I'm afraid by the time I get it running right its going to be time to winterize it ARRgh!

[ExarKun16v]

Last night I swapped the engine covers. I reused the old gasket and ran it around the block again a few times. So far its holding up decent but I am going to replace the gasket the next oil change just to be on the safe side.

I tried swapping the the clutch push rods as well. It seems there is almost a half inch difference in the length of the push rods. I had the 05 push rod in there to begin with and it was too long, after adjustment it was engage at almost the end of the lever travel. As a result the clutch seemed to be slipping. When I put in the 97 push rod it was too short. I turned the adjustment screw all the way in and it still wasn't hitting the push rod. I'm am not totally sure what the issue is. I thought the two sprocket covers were interchangeable?

Anywho today at worked I fab up a dummy push rod that is .25" shorter than the 05 push rod. hopefully that will put me right where I want to be. If this one works I will either fab up a permanant rod or cut the 05 rod on the lathe. Any ideas on why the clutch isnt working?

I also haven't gotten into the carbs yet. I'm going to try and clean them again and see if that fixes it. It feels like I have a flat spot in the middle of the band. I can't get up to high with the RPM's though becasue the clutch keeps slipping.

[ExarKun16v]

Time for this thread to RISE FROM THE DEAD!

I will give you guys a little update first. I did end up cutting the 05 push rod by about 0.25". I put it in and now the clutch works perfectly. It is something I am going to hafta keep my eye one since the end that I cut is no longer surfaced hardened.

I also bought a Factory Pro jet kit and installed that with the 114 jet. I then tried to synch the carbs with a homemade U-Tube manometer. But due to the fact I was by myself and it was about 20 degrees out I gave up without ever synching them. I threw a tarp over it and left it for the winter.

Well after letting the bike sit all winter I finally got a chance to work on it again. Some guys from work picked it up with a trailer and we brought it into work. Last night was the first chance I got to work on it. I pulled the carbs, gave it an eyeball synch to get it close and then put the carbs back on. A guy here gave me a hand and we managed to get a pretty good synch with the U-tube. We are going to hafta fine tune it but it's very close and runs 100 times better than it used to.

I've also got plans to paint it all flat black (the fastest color), replace some leaky fork seals, and go over it with a fine tooth comb to make sure all the nuts and bolts are where they are suppose to be and torqued correctly. All in all I hope to be on the road again within a month.