[arsenic]

well, you know what the heck is going on then, let me know how it works out, I'm curious to see if you need to do adjust A (just pushing the adjuster in and rotating the engine) or B (pushing the release after it's installed)

[Gripp]

Well its done, pretty easy process. I removed the tensioner center bolt (big one), removed the spring, inserted a allen key into the hole and pressed on the adjuster. It clicked once (don't push too hard), inserted the new spring and reinstalled the bolt. It sounds a bit better but it was hot so I'll try it in the morning, Thanks again guys.

[arsenic]

oh, see you guys are at a different point then me, I have the engine completely taken apart, it would be much easier if the motor was together.

[steves]

I didn't push the tensioner in prior to spring install, and got two clicks as I rotated the engine... so I guess that either way will work just fine.

[arsenic]

thanks, I'm sure when I get the engine back together to the point of doing this, I'll try it and understand right away, I appreciate all the advice guys.

[BareKat]

I thought I'd drag up this old thread in the hopes it is the solution to my bike's problem.

After doing a bit of googling I came across this post in the the gixxer.com forum:

Which GSX-R's are affected by the Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT) problem?
Any year and model bike can develop this problem ! The Suzuki automatic CCT is widely regarded as a total POS, and can go bad on any year/model GSX-R. The issue did not become a recall until 1999, where Suzuki finally realized this problem and owned up to it (NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 99V132000). Suzuki superseded the old CCT's with the revised 99 part, so if you order this from Suzuki you will get the good CCT, albeit most agree the manual CCT from APE is a better part anyways. It's your call.

What are the symptoms of the CCT going bad?
A ticking/clicking noise from the right side of the motor, very noticeable at idle. Some say the bike sounds like a diesel, if the tensioner has failed you can cause internal engine damage so if the motor ever sounds terrible like this, do not run the motor and do not ride the bike. The automatic tensioner bolts can back out and cause timing jumps, which can bend your valves or cause other internal damage. This $50 quick fix can turn into a $500+ looooong fix or lead to a seized motor which can cause a crash etc.

This is a fairly easy fix so I'm gonna pull the tensioner out and have a look at it.

Here is the sound clip
Thoughts?

[stephen_gsx750f]

Thought i'd dig up tthis thread because it's given me quite a bit of advice. Thanks for all the info, I just finished installing the new spring. She does sound a bit more like a diesel but I somehow have a feeling she be running right as rain in the morning. If they make a ape manual adjuster for my 89 kat 750 I'd get it. Thanks again everyone.

[arsenic]

They do. The ST750.

[hardlydangerous]

Not wanting to wait for ever due to the mail strike and shiping overloads I just bought a new OEM adjuster instead of the APE for the remainder of this year.

I had replaced the spring in mine last season but still had a lot of chian noise. I even pushed the adjuster in when slowly turning it over incase I could gain another click from it. The new adjuster worked perfect and the engine is super quiet once again