fork seals bad

[brainchill]

So I've had the kat for a few weeks and I love it but the front right fork seal is gone. I am curious how difficult it would be to replace myself or if I should just take it in to have it done. How much might this cost?

[Black_peter]

I got an estimate of $180 labor to do the seals..
NOT from the dealer either..

It is not a big job.
Do a search and find my "shorcuts" thread.
There is also a how-to at the Motorcyclist Magazine web page.

[Fingers]

It CAN be a big job if it's your first time doing it. If you have a manual, it's not too bad.

In a nutshell, you need to take off the bottom fairing, jack up the bike, take off the front wheel, remove bushing, fender, brake calipers, unbolt damper rod, unscrew top cap, drain oil, loosen both clamps (lower triple and upper clip-on pinch clamp), and remove the forks. Remove dust cap, retaining ring, hyperextend the forks, seperate and remove old seal, drain remaining oil, clean everything up, put slider back into casing, drive the upper bushing down so it's seated, install new seal (RIGHT SIDE UP), drive seal, install circlip, install dust boot. Install damper rod and innards (IN THE RIGHT ORDER), tighten damper rod bolt, tighten clamps loosely, ensuring forks are even, fill with oil 499ml/fork, close top caps, install lower fender bracket, fender, left fork bushing, wheel, axle, calipers, tweak the forks if neccesary, tighten triple tree/upper clamp, lower bike, check again for leaks, clean up, reinstall lower fairing.

Estimate most mechanics to charge you 3 hours labour for both forks if they're on the bike, and 2 hours if they're off.

I can do it in about 20 minutes per fork, and about 20 minutes for disassembly. I've had practice

Fork seals cost $12CAD a peice, fork oil $15/bottle. You might need new bushings and dust seals too, but not likely. Give yourself half a day to do it your first time. Lots of learning.

[stoocats]

my right front fork seal is leaking on my 99 600. I just remembered I hit a nasty pothole the other day. My fork oil leaked a bit on my rubber brake line. I wiped it off but am concerened if the oil that entered the end of the line where there is a metal end and cannot be wiped off can effect the integrity of my brake line. Another question, is there anyone who replaced their seals as Fingers explains and if anyone can give additional tips and or blessings.

[DClark]

I took off the fork took to the dealer to put in a new seal, I think it was $35 total.

[Philskat]

i have done three sets of seals two on my yamaha cruiser and one my kat and the kat was easier by far read black peters thread on it and you will be happy you did it your self.

[joedan]

just finished doing my first set, got quoted $250 from the stealership if i brought just the forks in and all the oil and parts. left one was leaking and did that one no prob. right was fine but i noticed the bolt for the oil stop piece was stripped but not leaking before i took it apart, assembled right fork at least 5 times do to mistakes and having to deal with the stripped bolt hole. i ended up picking up an 88 600 parts bike and rebuilt its right fork. i hope i did them right haha. im glad i was up to a learning experience.

[KAT TOY]

just finished doing my first set, got quoted $250 from the stealership if i brought just the forks in and all the oil and parts. left one was leaking and did that one no prob. right was fine but i noticed the bolt for the oil stop piece was stripped but not leaking before i took it apart, assembled right fork at least 5 times do to mistakes and having to deal with the stripped bolt hole. i ended up picking up an 88 600 parts bike and rebuilt its right fork. i hope i did them right haha. im glad i was up to a learning experience.

congrats.

[Wild-Bill]

Forks are pretty easy, especially if you've got access to an impact wrench. Leave the drain screw in place. You don't need it. Instead, just turn the fork upside down over a bucket after taking the cap off and removing the spacer, spring and washer. Pump it a few times to work the last of the oil out of there and you're good.

The impact wrench is to remove the dampener bolt. (The one that goes up through the bottom end of the fork.) After dumping the fluid, reinstall the spring, washer, spacer and fork cap and then, with the fork upside down on top of a rag (to pad it from the floor) put some weight on the fork leg to compress it while you use the impact to pull the dampener bolt. It's worked every time I've tried it.

After you pull the dampener bolt just remove the cap, spacer, washer and spring again. Remove the wiper/dust seal (A putty knife works well for that.) and keeper ring and then grab the upper and lower parts of the fork and pull them apart a few times like a slide hammer to remove the seal.

After that, it's a matter of cleaning everything, checking to see if you need to replace the brass bushings (Usually you don't unless the bike's been run without fluid for a while.) and then putting everything back together with a new seal, wiper and fluid. Don't forget to get the dampener bolt back in before you pour the fluid in there. DAMHIKT!