[TheSteve]

Still using the one between the fins. It actually works very well and the bike hasn't failed to start since its install.

[Newbie2it]

Good deal, I was just wondering. I know after I had mentioned the oil pan one from cyber you stated you went to the fin one but was thinking about the pan pickup. Just wasn't sure which way you currently were set up.

[TheSteve]

Yeah. I'm not sure which would be better. The cooling fins seemed to me to heat up much faster than the oil. Next time you start your bike put your hand on the fins, theyll be warm after 30 seconds or so. The oil pan on the other hand, probably retains heat longer. I figured that I'd rather know the combustion chamber (or at least cylinder wall) temp as the enrichment isn't really for warming up, its just for starting. That and I'm cheap. This sensor and some JB weld is cheaper and easier than the oil pan sensor and tapping the pan.

[TheSteve]

So yesterday on the way to work I thought I'd try something to finish the fuel mapping. You'll see that in my post on 9-18 I had a flat spot in the tune. I was having a hard time getting the low-rpm high-load area filled in since the moment I'd hit the gas it would accelerate past where I wanted the MS to be watching. So with a rough tune of that area loaded in and datalogging on, I got on a back road started cruising at the RPM that needed tuning and rolled on the throttle while adding rear brake proportionally to keep the speed constant while varying the load. The bike coughed as usual but it got the data I needed. I repeated this for the low speed areas (3000-7000rpm) several times and went home.

The logviewer's analyzer did exactly what I was hoping, giving a vastly changed map for that area. By holding the RPMs steady and bringing the load up and down the table I was able to perfectly simulate nearly 90% of the cells on the side of the table I was focusing on. The remaining 10% was the 1000rpm column (mostly idle control there), cruising loads (already done), and deceleration conditions which are pretty close already.

After burning the new tune I took the bike out and pinned the throttle in the previous trouble spots. Instead of bogging down and coughing like crazy, the bike took off! Much better than before, zero hesitation, zero guesswork finding the sweet spot on the throttle. My gas mileage is probably going to suffer with the newfound acceleration I've found...

I'll post the 600cc tune in a day or so after a few more datalogging runs. I still need to do the 8000-11000RPM pulls as well. I want to at least get between 8k and 9.5k with detailed part-throttle maps. Past 9500rpm I don't think I'll ever be in a low throttle condition, but I might try to get it anyway.



I'm not sure I've mentioned it, but burning a new map is simple and takes about 45 seconds. There have been a few debates over carb tweaking vs tune burning and theres no comparison with how simple this is. Both require either dyno time or AFR logged rides (or just go by feel, works too but not as well). Carbs need to have screws, needles, and jets adjusted or replaced to retune. This needs the laptop plugged into the bike for a minute or less to burn the tune.

To add to the simplicity of this, the AFR is logged against both load and RPM by default so tuning is pretty much automated as long as you simulate the right conditions. To do the same with carbs without dyno time you'd still need some sort of logging computer and a wideband to log AFR vs RPM. And unless you have a post engine with a TPS, you'd have to add that in too to log load.

[steves]

These results are just fantastic. I know that you have a lot of people watching you right now. Again, thanks for taking the time to share with us.

[TheSteve]

And thank you for the support! Heck even if no one was responding I'd still post up. God knows my roommate can't stand hearing about it all the time so I've gotta vent somewhere lol.

I can't wait to see who does this next!

[diavolo]

I've been following the thread and glad to hear you've got it sorted out and running reliably. I imagine the swap has improved the driveability and performance markedly. Kudos on the build and excellent write-up!

[DimitriT]

Your dedication to this task and your skill is amazing. You are accomplishing, on your own, what would normally take a team of engineers and techs to do (and often enough, they still can't get it right). You are also getting it done without a dyno which makes it a huge challenge.

[Theeun_Holy]

EFI is so smooth, I am planning on doing this sometime time soon as well, will try I'll keep everyone updated with the details when I do.

Thanks again for posting the whole process!
you pioneered a path through the wild woods of carb-efi conversion!

[TheSteve]

Today if the bike will play nice I might try and make the DIY ignition advancer. I tried to pull the signal generator off the spare engine I have but the screws holding it in just wouldnt budge even after soaking in PB blaster overnight and trying to grab them with vice grips. Hopefully this one goes better.. Any tips on pulling this f'ing thing out?

[Newbie2it]

If you cut the heads off, remove the plate, then put vise grips on what remains sticking out.. Use some heat around the screws, Dont heat the screws themselves tho, you want the aluminum to expand differently than the steel screw, once its hot, you should be able to unscrew it very easily.

You could try with the plate in place, but it might make trying to heat it a PITA. Use a heat gun if possible, as opposed to a torch just due to the fact of the oil.

[TheSteve]

Sounds good. I had a change of plans and wasn't able to do it today. Hopped on the bike to head to work, and 30 feet from the house the clutch cable snapped. Pushed it home and ordered a new one from bikebandit. Hopefully it arrives soon, but at least this gives me plenty of time to do the ignition advancer.

[Newbie2it]

Sorry to hear of the misfortune on the cable.. But hey, Look for the positive side.. Sometimes sheit happens for a reason. Whatever that reason might be

[ThAzKat]

what kind of money is tied up in this mod?

[TheSteve]

I think I'm in it for about $350-400 or so. Maybe a little more with all the experimenting with the GM igniter parts. The cost varies depending on if you can build the MS yourself, if you already have a wideband, etc. If you know what you're doing you can swing it for less than $500.