[TheSteve]

That would work just fine. Its just nice to have all the adjustment in a single unit, and costs less since you only have to buy one thing. No reason it wouldn't work though.

[Cheech]

why not use a dyna 4000 to control your ignition and the ms to control fuel

Would this idea have any application on a post, or just the GSXR that TheSteve is working on?

[TheSteve]

The Dyna coils would probably be the easiest for either bike at least until someone codes the MS for the suzuki 4 tooth wheel. The only reason for this is the OEM/Dyna coils are both setup to identify which cyl should be firing based on that long tooth. MS can do the same only with a missing tooth instead. If you're careful, you could remove one of the teeth with a grinder and be able to use the MS for timing. A 4-1 wheel is one of the standard ignition input types so it's been done dozens of times already.

[TheSteve]

Sorry for the brevity in my last post, was sorta busy elsewhere.

To add to my earlier post here is the link to the missing tooth wheel setup.

http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Miss_Tooth.htm

The reason I personally didnt do it on the Katana was I didn't want spark control at the time. On the GSXR I'm still just planning for fuel only at the moment, but theres a good chance I'll add spark timing later with this method. Since I'm using the VR sensor this time it leaves my options much more open.

[TheSteve]

Well after a few weeks of searching, I'm giving up on trying to locate an OEM fuel pump. They're out there but I absolutely refuse to spend $300 on a used fuel pump with no warranty on ebay or $200 on forum partouts. The new pump is $600, not doing that either. So I just ordered these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
and

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270426195618&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

The auction links will disappear in a few weeks, but what I ordered was a Ford E2000 pump. Its an inline pump similar to what I used on the Katana. The difference is its OEM and waaaaay cheaper. Spent $27 on the pump (the MSD pump for the Kat was ~$110) and also bought a proper fuel pressure regulator. Honestly this regulator is way overkill, but its a safer option than modifying the car unit to fit into a hose. That was $25.

Thats the last of the needed parts, so the actual buildup will probably be posted on gsxr.com and somewhere here as well once I start assembling. For the fuel feed I'll either pull the fuel thru the low pressure carb fuel pump or disable that pump completely and drill a hose barb into the bottom of the fuel pump hatch. Then a 2nd barb will function as a fuel return. I think I'll disable the low psi pump, I'd rather not have the extra electrical draw for zero gain.

I have one last project to button up before I can take the GSXR apart, so it may still be a little while before theres actual progress.

[TheSteve]

And of course just hours after posting that I found (and bought) a 98 GSXR fuel pump for a whopping $100 shipped! So I'll use the in tank pump and the regulator I just bought. I'll keep the other pump around as a spare

[ITS_NOT_A_KNIFE]

any updates

[TheSteve]

Unfortunately, no. I have been busy with work and other stuff (general lazyness) so I haven't finished the truck project meaning I can't take the GSXR apart yet. I really want to though, almost enough to ride a bicycle around in the meantime. The best motivation is necessity after all. As far as the Katana goes I'm actually selling it to a friend of mine next week as soon as he takes the MSF course. I've beem letting a couple of my friends learn to ride on the Kat the past week. Pretty uneventful up until last night when one of them (not the buyer) was trying to power up the curb into the driveway, but with too much weight on his wrists he slammed the throttle and plowed the Kat into my truck. He and the Toyota fared ok but the katana earned a smashed headlight and fairing stay. This is about 23 hours after installing my new straight fairing stay after my crash a few months back. Oh well, he had fun and is paying for new parts. I hope to start the GSXR swap soon, though I have the carbs set pretty well as it stands. Ill keep you all updated.

Anyone else start their conversions yet?

[TheSteve]

Here we go again

Alright, boredom got the best of me tonight, so I started the GSXR harness. Some pics:





So what you're looking at here is the harness that goes from the MS box to the rest of the FI components. Got everything soldered and ready to go. Next step (tomorrow maybe?) is to mount the MS and cut the wires to length. My goal is to NOT disable the GSXR for more than a day or two as I still havent gotten around to finishing that engine swap on the truck. I've been very lazy this summer it seems.. Either way, since the GSXR is my only running vehicle (sold the Kat to a friend yesterday) it means riding the bicycle to work every day the motorcycle is down.

To not disable the GSXR I want to get the hard and/or lengthy parts done first. Wiring is the easiest since it can all be run without affecting the current operation of anything. Next is mounting the few sensors and welding an O2 sensor bung into the exhaust. Already have the bung, and the air temp sensor will go in the airbox. The coolant sensor will hopefully thread into the radiator's fan switch spot. To make it more accurate I may get the thermostat housing off a newer GSXR and place the temp sensor in that instead. I'll lose coolant on this install so I may do this last minute.

Once everything, and I mean EVERYTHING is wired the rest will be installed in a single night if it all goes to plan. Sounds like a very long night, but its really only stuff being swapped out: carbs for throttles, low psi fuel pump to high psi fuel pump, see if the airbox can be fitted. If not, then I'll spend the money on some pod filters.

While the big parts are being swapped I need to check the throttle position sensor. The 01-03 has a much different resistance curve than the 97 and I worry it might screw up the ignition advance provided by the CDI. The MS can be calibrated to anything, so if the 97 TPS fits the 01 throttles I'll swap them and not worry about it.

Cliff notes:
Step 1: Wiring including new grounds (really Suzuki? Again with the bad grounds?)
Step 2: Weld in O2 bung, mount sensor
Step 3: Remove fairings, install new coolant sensor and replace lost coolant
Step 4: Swap parts
Step 5: Tune
Step 6: Clean up, reinstall fairings

[spatula6554]

@ TheSteve

Amazing work!! Meticulously detailed and well put together. I just spent 3 hours reading from the very first post to this current one, I couldn't stop.

I have been considering this mod for my bike for a bit now; all of your information and experimentation will be a great help!

It will take some math and planning in order to collect the right parts for a 1993 GSX1100FP, but I think it is possible.

Thanks again, I will certainly be keeping a close eye on these projects!

[TheSteve]

May have a serious setback here. I pulled the tank off to run a few wires and noticed that the thermostat housing on the GSXR sticks out much higher up on the engine than I thought. It looks like its going to get in the way of the fuel rail and injector #4. It's too close to eyeball it, I need to actually pull the carbs off to see if its still feasible to use these throttles. Theres miles of clearance everywhere but that damn thermostat housing. Hopefully it'll fit.

Forgot to mention, I did actually get some work done tonight. I pulled off the exhaust and started to mount the O2 bung. Pain in the *** to try and drill that hole. I think I'll cut it out with an angle grinder this time. Also got a 4 gauge chassis ground going straight to the battery. I wonder if this will stop the flickering dash lights. I then burned my hand after touching some freshly welded metal. The O2 bung left a nice O shaped burn on my palm after the exhaust started to slip from my hands and I instinctively went to catch it.

[TheSteve]

Ok. Took the bike apart. Throttles fit nicely, little boring of the rubber boots was all it took. They fit great. Got the harness made, tomorrow I'll splice it into the TPS, signal generator, power, and ground. May also try to fit a temp sensor in the radiator. Tomorrow I may try to swap fuel pumps as well.

Everything seems to fit well. Throttle cables seem to be the right length though I havent connected them, airbox fits but the boots are too big, throttles are perfect as far as spacing and height go, etc.

Only concerning issue right now is the TPS. The TPS's between this and stock are different resistances. The TPS also feeds into the CDI on the GSXR for ignition timing, so the difference may kill my ignition advance. I think it may be ok in that theyre both 0v-5v voltage dividers so it should show relatively the same value at the same throttle position. Guess I'll have to try it and find out since the TPS's are different sizes and cannot interchange.

Actually one more concern. I dont know if that temp sensor will fit or not. Thats kind of a big deal. I'll figure something out.

Edit. Just realized I completely repeated myself from my last post about the TPS. I should probably read my previous posts before updating. And my order of operations was abandoned due to me having nothing to do today.

[TheSteve]

Got the temp sensors fitted. The same Duralast SU109 fits the fan switch spot in the radiator just barely. The stock hole is a M18 x 1.5 (same as an O2 sensor or automotive spark plug) and the sensor is a 3/8 NPT. Theyre very close to the same. Since no CTS was ever made in a M18 it'll have to do for now. If it leaks I did find one company that makes an adapter from M18 x 1.5 to 1/8 NPT which is used for many aftermarket and OEM temp sensors.

The IAT I went with this time is the Duralast SU107 which is the same size, shape, and resistance of the 109. The difference is that rather than being encased completely in brass, the sensor bulb is suspended in a protective cage with open air all around it. This allows less heatsoak and faster response. The intake air temp sensor's home is in the GSXR's spacious airbox.

All the wiring is done. This is moving along quickly. Fuel pump's JB weld return bung is currently drying. It should be done by the time I'm off work tonight and I'll swap that over and get the fuel lines situated. I need to find a spot to mount the pressure regulator.

[Kat750_1126]

Hey guys. Im doing the same conversion from carbs. The only problem I have is the tuning Im not too confident about that one. Steve is there any way I can use your files just so I have something to start off with. I have a 750 not sure if yours is a 600? and did you end up sticking with droping the (GM 4 pin HEI module) for the diode/resistor set up.

[TheSteve]

Oh wow, forgot about this thread lol.

To answer your questions:
Send me your email address and I'll send you the latest tune. I'll change the reqfuel value for a 750. The majority of the tune may be a little off (especially for cranking I think) because of differences in the bore, stroke, and cam (which make the differences in VE) but it should be close enough to get you started by just having the displacement variable increased.

The HEI setup is long gone but it still does work if you'd rather pursue that route. I'm still using the diode/pull up resistor and it's performed flawlessly since installed.

A few updates to my garage:

The Katana is still running strong with its new owner.

I finished the MS conversion on the GSXR. Rode it around the block a few times (ran very well considering it was untuned. Engine was much easier to get running than the old oil cooled ones.

The GSXR developed some problems starting where the engine would lock up HARD with a tremendously loud BANG when cranking. I pulled apart the starter motor, its gears, and the starter clutch and all looked fine. The bike would push start fine as well.

Decided I didnt want to mess with it, swapped the carbs back on (anyone need a readymade conversion kit?) and sold the bike.

Two weeks later I bought an 07 ZX-6R, factory fuel injected of course. Not really any chance of megasquirting this (not that I'd need to, but fun to speculate) because of the way the ECU talks to the gauge cluster. No longer is it a wire for each function, its now a ONE wire digital signal. No chance in hell of the MS convincing that to work. Without that wire, I lose tach, gear postion switch, temp gauge, check engine light, and I think oil pressure. Basically it'd be a very large rewire of the majority of the bike. So this one is staying mostly stock unless I need to make adjustments in which case I'll buy a powercommander..