good information.. thank you.. will start using 87 and try to see the difference
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i guess the 1100 is different this is what the service manual says
"FUEL AND OIL RECOMMENDATION
FUEL
Use only unleaded or low-lead type gasoline of at least 85-95
pump octane(\M) method or 89 octane or higher rated by the
Research Method."1990 katana 1100
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Originally posted by Jeckel View PostMakes sense. I have seen some threads here about a "spark advancer" (or something) would that benefit from higher octane?
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Not to beat a dead horse here, but is Ethanol bad for a carbureted engine such as our 600 and 750's? I have an 02 750. Only 91 and higher octane grades have no Ethanol added to the mix here in Canada. I am well aware that the higher the octane level doesn't mean better fuel. Throwing money away if you engine doesnt require it. But worried that the ethanol will play havick with our carbs. Thoughts???
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Originally posted by 92xjunker View PostOnly if not properly stored.
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15 mins might be too long unless it's still -15. I'm assuming it is when you're doing so, more mentioning for other peeps. Generally running more than 10 minutes without moving is going to get the engine REALLY hot.1998 Katana 750
1992 Katana 1100
2006 Ninja 250
2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles
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Originally posted by MotorBikeMike View PostMeaning what? Not adding in a fuel stabilizer before putting away for the winter? The PO filled the tank with 94 and added some stabilizer to the tank. I start the bike and let it run for 15 mins every couple of weeks. Not sure its good to do that as condensation could build up in the cylinders as its cooling back down to -15 celcius for another week or two.
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Originally posted by ygolohcysp View PostCondensation forms when things warm up. That's why steam comes out of the tailpipe when you first start a vehicle, and why soda or beer cans get condensation when you pull them out of a fridge. Cooling down doesn't cause condensation. That said, if you're going to run an engine in winter just to keep it going, make sure you warm it up to the point that steam stops coming out of the exhaust so you don't cause condensation to sit in the chamber or exhaust.
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Well, you just have to get a feel for how it runs, and notice when it's different. You're right, there is no gauge, though I've seen posts before how people have added them. But keep in mind that it's an air cooled motor. There is an oil cooler on it, but still no fans on that. In winter, it's not as bad on them because it's so cold out, but in warmer months, starting it up and letting it idle will overheat it pretty quick (like, 5-10 minutes at a guess, you don't have to worry about traffic lights or the occasional traffic slow down). As long as you're moving, you're fine. For doing tuning like syncing the carbs, people usually put a box fan in front of the bike so there's air movement over the engine.
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Originally posted by ygolohcysp View PostWell, you just have to get a feel for how it runs, and notice when it's different. You're right, there is no gauge, though I've seen posts before how people have added them. But keep in mind that it's an air cooled motor. There is an oil cooler on it, but still no fans on that. In winter, it's not as bad on them because it's so cold out, but in warmer months, starting it up and letting it idle will overheat it pretty quick (like, 5-10 minutes at a guess, you don't have to worry about traffic lights or the occasional traffic slow down). As long as you're moving, you're fine. For doing tuning like syncing the carbs, people usually put a box fan in front of the bike so there's air movement over the engine.
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Generally, it's a waiste of time unless your riding in very hot temps, 100* or more. The engine is designed to take a lot of heat. Use better oil in the hotter months and you'll be fine."I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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