[ygolohcysp]

That is looking nice. I'd love to get some of that DEI Titanium wrap for the up-pipe I have yet to put in my WRX, but it's more expensive than I'm willing to put up with for now. I'd rather spend money on my bike, or on track days.

Great progress though! Keep it coming.

[crazycraven420]

the DEI wrap is about $15 for 15ft x 2in. I used less than 2 rolls to do my whole header on my Kat. Cant imagine you'd use more than 3 rolls for your wrx, if I did it over I'd use different straps or clamps. The DEI ss straps were way overpriced an not that great imo.

[91_gsx600F katana]

now thats sexy. and I just realized how close that turbo is to your nuts.

Yes... its both sexy and super close to my nuts. I will be putting heat refecting "foam" basically a foam with foil on the outside (used for sound and heat resistence in cars) on the bottom of the seat to help with the turbo heat.

Which brings me to my next thing. Since the turbo is rear mounted it shouldnt get as hot as the one on the headers... bascially the same distance as the muffler and that got alittle hot during riding in the summer etc. THis should also lower my air intake temps since the exhaust gases are less hot as the turbo should also be less hot = lower intake air temps, so a intercooler might not be needed at levels of 8psi either. I will use a infared heat gun to see running temps though and will be running 4psi still as my base. Increasing to 6 or 8psi down the road if Im feeling alittle spunky as it only requires removing and replacing the wastegate spring.

That is looking nice. I'd love to get some of that DEI Titanium wrap for the up-pipe I have yet to put in my WRX, but it's more expensive than I'm willing to put up with for now. I'd rather spend money on my bike, or on track days.

Great progress though! Keep it coming.

Its not that expensive as already stated. I got 35ft for 30$ off ebay. I would have just gotten the 50ft but calculated that i would only need about 25ft which came out exactly after wrapping everything and I have a little left over. I have experience with regular fiberglass heat wrap and they have NOTHING on this stuff. I have it on my firebird and now my bike and I refuse to use anything else. You wouldn't believe how much this stuff cuts heat down.

the DEI wrap is about $15 for 15ft x 2in. I used less than 2 rolls to do my whole header on my Kat. Cant imagine you'd use more than 3 rolls for your wrx, if I did it over I'd use different straps or clamps. The DEI ss straps were way overpriced an not that great imo.

the DEI straps are WAYYYY overpriced. Ill let u in on a little secret. Harbor freight sells SS straps (same as the DEI etc) and you get 25 of them for 6$ at 11" long I believe. thats about 1/4 the price of the DEI stuff. I got a few bags of them for things like this and they are made from 304 stainless just like the good stuff.

The design of the DEI and harbor freight straps arent the best though... honestly if you want the best thing you need a worm style SS clamp, sure it doesnt look as good but they never loosen and you can get them super tight. I still use the SS straps but I have used the worm clamps in troublesome areas that are out of view.

[91_gsx600F katana]

Ok, now for the good stuff! Got ALOT done this weekend! I was able to put the exhaust all back on and tighten it all down. I was also able to finish fully welding the plenum as well as finish it up by fabricating the PITOT tubes etc. I also finished the pressure pipe and BOV mount. I then recovered my seat with carbon fiber cloth to match the rest of the bike.

Heres my explanation of why I did what I did.

Plenum, after much reading I came to the conclusion of doing it this way (parallel to incoming air) for many reasons. It actually interfears less with the incoming air and therefore has less pressure drop, as well allows tuning of pitot tube size. The tube I used is steel (aluminzed fuel line) at 5/16" OD and is welded to a 1/8" plate which is welded to the plenum for added strength. Each tube will provide pressure for each pair of carbs (1 tube per carb vent) and I will run 5/16" fuel line with clamps. I can mess with tube DIA by filling the tube and drilling out for a desired size if need be, unlike the design of perpendicular to airflow (tube running through the plenum inlet) which would be very difficult to acheive this. But the way I did it will allow further "tuning" of pitot size. But it also increase fabrication difficulty and time. The plenum has been painted with 2000* high temp header paint inside (best i could) and out to help with rust. All my rubber boots have been cut to fit and should work beautifully!

Charge pipe! more difficult then I thought it would be. Basically alumnized steel 1.5" OD tubing cut and welded to fit INTO the plenum entrance tube (which is 2" OD). The 1.5" pressure tube actually slips into the 2" entrance and slip over the 2 pitot tubes (thus still keeping them correctly positioned in the charge air). Turned out this way as I figured out that I wasn't going to get the rubber boot to fit over the pressure tube if it didn't line up perfectly for a good seal. And if you noticed there is very little room between the turbo and the plenum which made this even more difficult. Adding a intercooler down the road will prob make pressure line plumbing even easier as I can come in from a better angles. Im thinking of wrapping the pressure tube with the left over DEI titanium exhaust wrap to help with engine heat but then I would be eliminating any cooling effects the pressure tube with have to the pressure air temp (tubing acts like a heat sink) and therefore would allow hotter air temps into the motor from the turbo.

BOV! I originally thought of bolting it right to the plenum to save space and make my pressure line fabbing easier, but decided against this for a couple of reasons. I would need to fully weld a 1/8" plate or thicker to the plenum to increase the strength for a good seal when it gets bolted down. All that welding would prob warp the flange causing even more issues. Plus I don't like the idea of the BOV on the plenum as when it releases pressure it would pull pressure closer to the carbs on that side compared to the others. Putting it in the pressure tube seemed like a better choice as it would do a better job or releasing pressure more evenly as its only a 1.5" tube anyway. finding a location to clear everything took a long time as well as fabbing the mount and correctly positioning it. The mount is 1/8" steel for space reasons but also bc it should see very little heat being on the intake side, if it was on the exhaust like a wastegate the flange would be a min 1/4" to help with warping. The BOV fits like a glove with the plastics on and you can see by the pics of the bike with the seat/rear fairings/tank on that the bike doesn't even look turbo'd!! WHOOP WHOOP! BOV is a 38mm and I will just have to adjust it low enough so it doesn't leak at idle.

Exhaust was kind of a PITA to fit as the wastegate gave my some trouble! Darn Vband flanges! But they seal better and look better (take up less room than the flanges). Looks great and as Ive stated before the Wastegate etc should fit under the rear fairing. Just need to drill a 2.5" hole to fit the Vband flange through. If I stretched the swingarm I could fit the exhaust under the bike completely and run it up the inside of the bike probably allowing an even cleaner install so you wouldn't see any exhaust at all from the outside of the bike.

Rear seat, basically took old black vinyl the guy before me had put on and wrapped it in a carbon fiber cloth that will match the carbon fiber solo cowl and other carbon fiber accents. Turned out pretty good except the back edge, couldnt get it to wrap without getting a wrinkly on the corner. This cloth is not cheap quality and does not shrink with heat or anything to help around edges and compound curves. Cloth really is textured like carbon fiber and i think it looks awesome!

All thats left is...
1.fabricating the new fuel attachment under the tank for the return and pressure line
2.mounting and wiring up fuel pump, mounting fuel pressure regulator + fuel lines
3.Mounting vacuum/boost block for all my boost psi ports for gauge etc
4.relocating battery and associated wiring to under solo cowl
5.replace my 2 1/16" gas gauge with boost gauge
6.finish oil pressure line and return line from turbo
tighten it all down and start it up!!

Here are the pics for your enjoyment!

[mammut89]

this project is moving fast ! cant wait to hear the sound of this thing

[Javy23]

this project is moving fast ! cant wait to hear the sound of this thing

++++1

[91_gsx600F katana]

Yea i've been busting my @ss to get it ready for riding season! I figured that I will need to spend some time tuning so getting it done early so I can ride it for the warm months is a must! Plus I need to get it out of my dads tent as I told him i needed a month to do tires and brakes lol.

Spent the morning tracking down som2 1/8" NPT tees for the fuel system and turbo oil pressure ports. Im going to tackle the fuel system tmrw and start the wiring!

[crazycraven420]

lookin good man! I love the seat look

[92xjunker]

[QUOTE=91_gsx600F katana;2265045]Yes... its both sexy and super close to my nuts. I will be putting heat refecting "foam" basically a foam with foil on the outside (used for sound and heat resistence in cars) on the bottom of the seat to help with the turbo heat.
What if you used a turbo blanket to keep your seat from melting like this and it will help with spooling

[91_gsx600F katana]

Usually bc those blankets are very expensive and I'm not even sure they have them for the tiny G15 turbo.

I'm hoping that it doesn't get that hot being mounted so far back. Maybe 250*F I'm hoping.

[crazycraven420]

I may be wrong but I thought I saw a DEI product for turbos when I was shopping for header wrap. That's if you get toasty testicles

[91_gsx600F katana]

I may be wrong but I thought I saw a DEI product for turbos when I was shopping for header wrap. That's if you get toasty testicles

Yea Ive seen them go for around $130+ for the DEI stuff. Some other imitators have it for like $85+. I personally would get the cheaper $36 one as who knows if the whole turbo setup will even work so why waste the money.

[91_gsx600F katana]

Got a TON done these past 2 days since I had off from work.

Basically everything is done besides bleeding the front brakes and replacing my petcock valve with something that flows alot more! Oh I need to hook up the pitot tubes to the bowl vents and I need to run all my boost lines to the BOV,waste gate and fuel pressure regulator.

But the rear reservoir has been relocated forward slightly (tried to move it to the otherside but didnt like the brake line going over the rear tire and below the turbo. I know its close to the turbo exhaust but I will figure something out for that. Fuel pump is mounted (below air plenum) and wired up with a relay, mounted it to 1/8" plate that uses an existing starter bolt to mount it to the motor. Fuel pressure regulator is all done (I hope this cheapo one works) using all 1/8" NPT ports and a 15psi gauge. All fuel lines are run and clamped down, plenum is bolted up and the new oil pressure feed line for the turbo is done and all run. I used a Tee that tapped into the main oil pressure gallery port (where my temp sensor was originally) this allows me to still keep the oil temp there and run the pressure line to the turbo (uses 2 restrictors, one in the line and the other at the fitting at the turbo). Battery has been relocated to under the solo cowl and I had to move the WHOLE wiring harness from the side of the exhaust to the other side... I didn't like how close it was to the exhaust and I couldn't really move it away and don't want any melted wires! you wouldn't believe how much of a PITA that was! I might have screwed up the wires going to the solenoid tho.... what happens if I get that backwards?

turbo oil return line in the pics as well... so far this is what I got. still lower than turbo itself (compared to the top of the 90* AN fitting) so I hope the oil doesn't really back up and cause and issue. Shouldn't be a problem as the oil should still be under some small pressure on the exit as well (line and fittings are 5/8" or -10AN) and go back into the stock oil fill cap hole. I will modify the oil fill cover to accept the fittings and such down the road after I make sure it works okay.

Carbs have been reset back to stock settings, stock jets and set float height to 15mm to lean it out alittle. Since fuel pressure will push the floats up a little under pressure which I thought 15mm would be a good starting point and it it pushes it to 14mm thats good enough for me. Still need to adjust the needles to stock.

Boost gauge has been run and all hooked up. This is the nylon tube u might see in the pic. I used a vacuum/boost block that has 6 ports in it. Im running a 5/16" hose from the turbo boost port to the block and Im running all my stuff off that. THe block is located below where my left leg would be and has the CDI box attached to it.

I popped the rear fairing on and solo cover/seat to make sure it all fits and it does! the fairing will be pushed out like 1/8" or so at the front but thats no big deal.

and here are the pics!

[shpielers]

Hell of a project, cool to see it coming together! Can't wait till you finish putting everything together and see if it works!

[91_gsx600F katana]

WEll I ran into my first problem already! I went to test the fuel system quickly and My pressure gauge shot to 11psi then 15psi and Then I heard fuel leaking. I pulled the tank and I had ful all over the top of the carbs and plenum etc. I tried to get the system to adjust down but It looks like the diaphram is stuck or not adjusting... I literally pulled the adjusting bolt all the way out. So i msg the ebay dude and told him I want a full refund, this regulator was $50 and tried to get what I thought would flow enough for such a low HP build. But I just said screw this and I put an order in for the aeromotive regulator that I have on my firebird. $132 later for the pump and a few fitting reducers and I should have a much better fuel regulator setup and hopefully no problems.

I really dont know where the fuel came out of tho and I hope I didnt bugger anything up with the high pressures (could have been beyond 15psi easily). Maybe it shot out of the bowl vent nipples?

THis is going to kill me as I was hoping to ride her this weekend and I wont have the stuff till early next week! Or I could take the one off my firebird...hmmmm. But I would still need the 3/8NPT to 1/8NPT reducers. D@MN IT! Cheap @$$ ebay/chinese cr@p... doesnt even work out of the box.